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Old 10-16-2003, 05:41 AM   #4411
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rainbowten or rc-champ will have them
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Old 10-16-2003, 08:19 AM   #4412
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Default speed!!!!!!!

Hi guys.......

looking for some input, I have a 100 spur and wondering what pinion I should use?
Currently i'm using 33 and upto 36 and i certainly have the run time(8mins) but I get smoked down the straight........

any input would be great!!!!!!!
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Old 10-16-2003, 09:35 AM   #4413
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ahh yeah!!! I have been running 2 diffs since about July and my front gear case bearing and pinion gave way on my last race of the season at the end luckily in september so i gotta replace the front boxes and pinion Also the prop shaft too. Is it worth going for a 3 piece prop shaft? do the pinions fit better?????? and how about aliminium bulk heads?

Well i just wanted a good solution for next year as i really dont want the gears to let me down. They are going to be my first nats . So i was thinking Jurgen One way or penguin plate what should i go for to be most reliable and lastable ( heheh i made up a word ) .

Spool isnt really important ive decided, just wondering if they were anygood to tell the truth.

So alim bulk heads, 3 piece prop shaft, Jurgen one way,

Ultimate drive train...... ooops wait!!! ceramic bearings await

its my birthday in february


Tarnjit
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Old 10-16-2003, 09:48 AM   #4414
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EVO don't worry on the Ceramics quite a few have gone that way and have now returned. Go with the Tamiya blue seals and clean them out. You can get 2 sets for the price of ceramics
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Old 10-16-2003, 09:54 AM   #4415
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really? thanks for the tip!!!

how about the 3 piece prop shaft. do the pinions fit better
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Old 10-16-2003, 09:57 AM   #4416
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I use the spool for the EVO III once before and it really didn't help me much(that's just me). Jimmy J told me to use it on big sweeping tracks.

I use diff and it seems slower so I stick with one-way.

Does your shaft on the fron half get out of round and chew up the little bevel gear? I went through one shaft already.
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Old 10-16-2003, 10:22 AM   #4417
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Quote:
Originally posted by Difuser

I shim both the pinion and the ring. It takes time to do it properly by taking things apart so much but it is the only way to get it correct. You also get a feel for hom much a box or gear needs by doing it. I shim the diffs also as the pinion wears you have to to keep the gears from skipping under braking. As for shim size I believe it is the 5mm shim set it comes in .1,.2,.3 sizes. Also with the assembly and reassembly be careful not to over tighten the 3 screws holding the case front on.
So on the pinion you shim the on the plastic pinion shaft between the bearing and the back of the gear? I am not sure what you are referring to on the ring side?

Thanks,

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Old 10-16-2003, 11:05 AM   #4418
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Coop between the pinion and bearing is correct yes.
For the ring you shim between the bearing and diff outdrive to center or move side to side ring=diff gear/ring gear.
It is a balance of which place needs to be shimmed in the box as before you get a feel for which shim needs to be placed where.

Suradaj I have not. I have bent one trying to polish cosmetic scratches out don't ask I felt stupid afterwards. I have also in the past used a little dab of shoo goo to help take up the slop in the pinion gear it did not seem to make a difference so I have not repeated it. Spools are cool in the right track I like them in tight situations to get the car rotating faster but you also have the tradeoff of push into the turn.

EVO don't know on the 3 piece I have not had one myself if anyone knows where I can get one I wouldn't mind trying it
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Old 10-16-2003, 11:32 AM   #4419
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cool, i hope to try it out,

how about bearings, has any1 tryed the squat bearings out as im concidering some as r10 are out of tamiya rubber sealed which i was planning on getting
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Old 10-16-2003, 11:52 AM   #4420
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Difuser...I like that idea of shogoo but I guess it didn't really help. I was thinking of drilling a little hole all the way trough and put in a little roll pin or something.

I like YOKOMO's idea on the screw to hold the gear onto the shaft. They seem to have things right, haha.
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Old 10-16-2003, 02:23 PM   #4421
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A friend in Canada is doing the pin trick with his and reports good thing with his. He had the stripping problem also. If you have a machinest friend you could make the shaft with tapped hole to do the mod yourself.
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Old 10-16-2003, 02:31 PM   #4422
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Default Urgent assembly help needed!!

In step 8 (ball differential)in the instruction manual, has anyone encountered the problem of the 25mm screw not being long enough to catch the lock nut on the other side of the diff? it seems like no matter how I screw it it won't tighted, please help!!
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Old 10-16-2003, 02:45 PM   #4423
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Silver you have to seat the nut to get it into the plastic retainer. If this does not do it then use a small screwdriver in the nut side to put gentle pressure on the nut until it starts.
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Old 10-16-2003, 03:55 PM   #4424
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Difuser thanks. I'm new to this, the reason why I thought it wasn't long enough was cuz I didn't even have the bearings snapped in place in the diff, duh........

anyways, I kinda have the drivetrain complete now. What is considered a smooth running drivetrain?? I think I'm hearing a bit of sounds, could be the grease, don't know.
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Old 10-16-2003, 04:01 PM   #4425
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Mine was making some nosie to but aftr I ran it its was better, it still sounded bad so I found out the little input gear had a peaice of something hard on it so after I fixed that it was smooth like butter.
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