audiaudi

iTrader: (2)

I may have it in stock. let me check.

Vegetto

Hey hierog,

I got all my square parts from Niki's hobbys in HK, Msg me if you need his email address.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Hmm, looks like it would work well, I'm guessing that bearing in there is for the front block between the steering posts...

Loman

If the pinion gear stripping internally - please replace the driveshaft and the front gear box cover. Make sure the gear box cover can hold tightening the front one way. If not, it will causing the pinion gear can't fully press into the driveshaft and let it stripping internally. I hope my opinion can help all tb3 owner.

Rick Draper

Yes the bearing sits in the plastic block inbetween the steering posts. Rick

trf racer

rick i fought you was getting an sd?

Geetoo

iTrader: (1)

We have a race back here Le Mans style this weekend first 200 laps finish wins. A little bit anxious joining with a stripping gear on this type of race. Darn it

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

Any word on where to buy the Tech shaft?

itchynads

R10 are all out and have no idea when they will be back in stock. Could be months before they make another batch...by that time the Evo4 will be out

trf racer

rainbow ten

High-Speed

Yes, Please let us know. I'm Intrested in the shaft too.

High-Speed

You got a PM

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Jason might be able to answer this, but does the Square "H" block have the same size hole cut into it to where the bearing could be put into it as well?

charlie_b

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys. I figured out the cheapest way to fix the stripping gear problem. Strengthening the gear! After 2 months of weekend racing and many crashes, the gear held up. This is not a Tamiya Legal part, but seems to hold up VERY well! I gave Penguin RC the Specs and made it the same day! The Disc is notched inside to match the gear's mold.

He will probably go in production on this part very soon I think it will go for about the $6-$10 range. I am not sure..it is really up to him.

Sydewynder

Rog

The problem is with the way Tamiya made the center shaft system. All shaft drive cars need to have the shaft float so any slight misalignment between it and the gearboxes and any chassis flex won't make the whole drivetrain bind up. The difference between the Tamiya setup and the TC3/SD is that the others use a 3 piece shaft system. On the TC3/SD, the front and rear pinions are mounted on fixed stub shafts and the bearings are tight in the gearboxes. This allows for consistent, correct gear mesh between the ring and pinion gears. The center shaft being a big dogbone sitting in drive cups still floats.
Tamiya's setup is a single shaft and it floats by sliding in and out of the pinion gear (That's why racenut123's stripping the "D" out in the pinion) and the slop between the pinion bearings and the holes they sit in in the gearbox cases. The system floats by the slop.
If you wiggle the EVO 3 center shaft, you'll notice the front has more up/down, side/side play than the back because of the lack of the extra bearing that the rear (in the motormount) has. This makes the front gear mesh really inconsistent and poor. Add to the fact that the front uses a 1 way with no give (diff action) you'll strip gears. You can add a bearing in the front plastic support but I think Tamiya left it out so the drivetrain would be less likely to bind up ie. have more slop.
I don't know why Tamiya did this. Their nitro cars like the TGX is shaft driven yet has a 3 piece system just like the TC3/SD. Why did Tamiya go to a 1 piece drive shaft system on the EVO 3.

Now you, racenut123 and aurra sing know why I have not driven my EVO 3. I need to fix this first. I saw someone convert to a 3 piece system using SD parts or I was going to look into using the Tamiya nitro car's pieces but the Tech Racing 3 piece shaft kit looks good.