1shnot

iTrader: (2)

OK........

I don't know if ran yours with stock when you had it, but what was your gear ratio?

and do you remember which company the brushes were?(i don't know any company has brushes without any silver content)

anyone else run their evoIII with stock set up(gear ratio,which motor,what brushes)...........

thanx alot guys

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I only ran stock 1 day, and it was a tight layout, so gear ratio really wouldn't matter. We do only have 5 min heats out here, so I dont build the motor to get runtime, just speed. I did run 1/12 scale 4 cell mod, and we ran that for 8 mins, check Trinity's website, they should have some hard serrated brushes, I'd give those a shot.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Hey everyone! I found a great starting carpet setup for foams on the EVO 3 S. Thought you guys might want to check it out.

Front:
Spring: AE Purple
Oil: AE 80wt
piston: 3hole
Shock attachment: outside on tower, outside on arm
Swaybar: Blue
uptravel: 1mm
ride height: 5mm
camber link: long postion no shims
kickup/rollcenter: no shims under suspension blocks
Tires: Jaco Purple/orange 28mm (trued to 59mm)
Notes: Put a d block up front, and an A block in the back

Rear:
Spring: Ae purple
Oil: AE 60wt
Piston: 3 hole
shock attachment: middle on tower, outside on arm
swaybar: blue
uptravel: 1.5mm
rideheight: 5mm
camber link: long, no shims
kickup/rollcenter: no shims under suspension blocks
Tires: Jaco Purple 28mm (trued to 59mm)
Notes: use a red wheel shim, use TQ Purple/mod traction compound on full rear, 3/4 in the front. Front and rear ball diffs. Front tighter than rear. A block both front and rear suspension mounts

I'll try and keep you guys updated in what I find with some fine tweaking. This setup has a tad of push, but it's really easy to drive.

-Sushi Boy

Downforce

Front:
Spring: AE Yellow
Oil: 50wt
piston: 3hole
Shock attachment: middle on tower, outside on arm
Swaybar: yellow
uptravel: 2mm
ride height: 4.5mm
camber link: middle w/3mm shim
kickup/rollcenter: stock shim under front suspension block
Tires: TRC plaids (trued to 59mm)
Notes: Had to use HPI Aluminum hex claps and 1mm shim to fit tires of front

Rear:
Spring: Ae purple
Oil: 50wt
Piston: 3 hole
shock attachment: first on tower, outside on arm
swaybar: none
uptravel: 2.5mm
rideheight: 5mm
camber link: long, no shims
kickup/rollcenter: no shims under suspension blocks
Tires: TRC Purple (trued to 59mm)
HPI hex clamps, B block in rear, ball diffs front and rear, Parma X20 body.

Paragon 1/2 in front and full in rear. This setup builds more front bite as the run goes on. The rear never steps out or gets loose.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

does tamiya make any rear uprights that are 1 degree instead of 2?

-Sushi Boy

Downforce

I don't know. I noticed that the rear hubs say 2 degrees on the back side. I might run the D block an try to reverse the hubs. That would be 1.5 degrees of rear toe. I hope!

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

yeah, the back end of my car is TOTALLY GLUED!!!! I'm trying to figure out how to carry a bit more speed in the corners, then it will be golden.

-Sushi Boy

Aurra Sing

Tamiya makes a 1deg. rear upright but the locations for the upper links are different. You can just use a B-D block in place of the RF block like what you did to the FF one to get less than 2deg. rear toe.

Downforce

Thanks! I forgot about mixing the RF blocks to adjust toe. I should have remembered to do that.

Rick Draper

Just got the tech racing 3 piece center shaft for my eco 3 i will let everyone know if it stops the gears stripping i think it will but we will see. Rick

itchynads

Rick: Whereabout did you find the 3 piece shaft set? Would be great if you could post some pics

Rick Draper

Hi it came from Rainbow10 but they only had 1 in stock. I will post some pics of it later on. Rick

SpineX-SSL

Rainbow Ten website: http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/index.html

But I haven't been able to find any pic's of the 3 piece shaft set..........Maybe some one else could?

Take care
SSL

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

I am have the worst time with my front gear box.I must first say I feel this car is as fast as any other and I really think its an excellent handling car.That being said,I am getting really tired of the front gearbox problems with either the ring gear{larger}stripping or the pinion{smaller}gear internally stripping.I am not stripping ring gears at this time but my pinion gears internally where the drive shaft plugs into it is stripping out internally and pushing forward toward the ring gear causing binding.I would get about 2 runs and then have to replace the pinion.The internal d shaped notch becomes rounded out or basically reemed out by the drive shaft and then it pushes the pinion forward.This has cost me races over the last 3 race days.In the a main yesterday I had a good lead 3/4 of the race and then the binding started.Everyone was then so much faster when we got on the straight away!Is anyone else having the same problem?Could this be because of the actual gear box itself?I have a little play where the pinion gear bearing seats in the gearbox.Could this be the culprit?Should I buy a new front box?HELP!

Geetoo

iTrader: (1)

Try SQUARE gearbox. This should help. ALthough it still strips but you get to use your gears much longer than usual. Gosh still a headache