charlie_b

iTrader: (1)

i agree with aurra..i was scratching my head because that should give you lots of steering..anyway to gain on power steering, toe the from in..BTW..are you using the oneway?
What tires ARE you using? Using the stiffer spring in the rear actually sometimes gives you more traction as well. what cured my push problem was getting rid of the droop..making the axles parallel with the arms. try that..and hopefully you get closer to what you want.

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

thats what I like to hear!

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

What I meant to say is that if you if you move the sway bar connector (the balls with the set screw thingy) closer to the end of the swaybar, it'll create a softer effect. If you move it further away from the end of the sway bar, it'll be more direct and stiffer. It has nothing to do with how tight you screw in the grub screw. It's more of a minute fine tuning detail (read as "I'm too lazy to change sway bars" kinda thing). I hope this helps...and if i'm wrong, somebody smack me upside the head and correct me.

Explorer

charlie_b [/i],

Yes, I'm using a oneway. I'm using 30 Shimizu tires front and rear on an asphalt track. With regards to getting rid of the droop, should I adjust it with shocks on or without to make the axles parallel? Also, parallel axel with batteries on I assume.

Thanks.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Rod you are very correct. It's a matter of leverage and the closer the connection is to the rigid mount of the chassis the less leverage the arm has on the swaybar therefore the harder it is to bend/overcome the stiffness. We used spacers on the Mission to move the swaybar attachment further away from the shock tower to soften the swaybar effect all the time. Like you said, it's a great tool for fine tuning. I only wish I could drive well enough to need tuning increments that small....

Rod, Charlie, others- What ball cups are you guys using? I've found the Tamiya black balls cups are like the AE cups in that if you brush a pipe just right, it'll pop right off. Even if they're new and you don't have to hit very hard. I had the steering linkages pop off a few times and the outside camber link in the rear when we were in Atalanta for Fernando's big race (Toys for Boys). I had to back off in the main and drive in cruise control becasue I was scared I would brush a pipe and DNF over a stupid ballcup.

E.J. Evans

Hey Guys,

I was thinking of getting this gear support made for the front one way. I know the tamiya factory guys have something similar. It is a support that *has the same circumference* as the gear. Made out of aluminum .062 in thick (same thickness as the graphite piece).

I tried shimming the one way but still stripped a couple.

I don't know if a support like this will solve it, but I know it will help.

I'll test it and see if it works. If it helps I'll have more made. My co-worker owns a machine shop and is making them for me.

Your feed back is appreciated.

Here is how it looks like.

E.J. Evans

another view

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Okay, so i'm not tripping on the sway bar connector adjustments :P

Interesting ball cup observation. I've only "popped" one off when I sheer a corner off my car...not exactly what I call brushing something hahaha. There are newer low friction ball ends (the gray ones) that I've been using lately (it's in the new Tamiya catalog). I believe they even cost less than the replacement black ones, thread on the turn-buckle tighter, snap on harder, and seem to be stiffer. There was talk at the Reedy Race about how the TRF guys were using the LF ball conectors with LF balls and having them pop off. I haven't found that to be the case. They worked fine and I highly recommend the LF gray ball connectors. If you do find yourself in a situation where a the ball connector pops off, I'd be more worried about what else may have broken after the impact that caused it haha.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Hey EJ...yup that looks exactly like the machined aluminum one that we run. It helps a lot but gears will sometimes strip.

BTW, awesome night-vision drive last weekend. Your car was the only one that was visible, that and the radio shaking in your hands When I was on the straight, I would see a dark shape with red led light zoom by, disappear behind a shaking radio, and reappear in the sweeper where the dark shape now had two white disks to spot it

E.J. Evans

Hey Rod,

My laziness finally paid off!! painting the body all white. I still have lots to do though, as dialed as I thought my car was in the main, you did the quickest by like .4!!!

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

Rod You are corrct on the stiffness of the new cups. When I switched I used the Tamiya ball cups on my SD and I won't use another brand because they hold so well. Also you are spot on on the swaybar, think half steps inbetween bar stiffness

charlie_b

iTrader: (1)

Ej..thats what i should have one..my paintjob was so dark i was looking at other cars to guage where i was at!


Explorer-i was referering to the droop screws on the arms..on my car, the shocks are actually longer than the parralell position, but i still use the droop screws to limit it's down travel..i am also at 4.4mm ride height. Can you get a hold of Take-Off 27's? That's the tire we pretty much have our base settings off of...then, we adjust accordingly.

audiaudi

iTrader: (2)

How much is that cups cost in the states?
Do you guys use the floride coated ball ends from Tamiya as well? they are awsome.... very durable on worn....

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Dude, put me down for atleast two of those if you're gonna go into production with em.

racer

i understand it does not really matter how long a drivetrain runs.

not trying to debate whether its the driver or what brand makes better cars. just want to get some ideas.

after reading about blueprinting drivetrain for the TC3 and how R2 can spin more freely after mods. any tips or tricks we can do for the Evo III to make the drivetrain more efficient?

besides clearing out bearings.

Thanks!