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Old 08-26-2003, 01:15 PM   #3421
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ARC- it's not the gears that are the problem, although a little better (stonger) material might help. The problem is where the pinion gear's bearing seats is very loose so it can "float".
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Old 08-26-2003, 01:44 PM   #3422
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Thanks for all the suggestions on set up etc. I have not got the shimm set as yet for the One Way but I have it on order.

Does the one-way strip while just running the car normally or only if you have a crash. Also does it strip only with modified motors or does it do it with stock as well.

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Old 08-26-2003, 03:45 PM   #3423
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Iīm using the Square aluminium gearboxes since two races now. The pinion gear's bearing is less floating than with the stock plastic gearbox but there again is not a tight fit. Yes it helps a little but there also is the chance for breaking the oneway gear. You donīt have to use any shims for the oneway as there is a perfect fit for the bearings. In fact only the Tamiya bearings do have a perfect fit. I used some very old but extremly free running Yokomo bearings before but they are 3/100 mm wider so itīs just a little to tight.
Regarding gears there was an aluminium onewaygear for the EVO3 but it was a limited production and from what I have heard itīs been sold out now. I got some of the last batch but I had no time for testing. I think someone will try it at the nationals this weekend.
What I have been running since some time now is a different oneway made by one of the drivers here. Itīs made in a different way so the gear is attached from the other side as itīs with the TC3. The diameter of the oneway is a little larger so the gear cantīfloat around but is completely centered. Also the gear is attached to a backingplate as large as the gear so it canīt move in any direction. With this oneway I had no broken gear now.
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Old 08-26-2003, 04:55 PM   #3424
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Default Re: Re: SET UP QUESTION

Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing
Steevo, raising the inner hinge pins raises the roll center and lowers the roll moment like Tony stated earlier. However, he was doing it not to gain traction, but to loosen the rear of the car. The reason is that the 2mm chassis is flexible therefore biasing the traction f/r balance toward the rear. By raising the real roll center he loosens the rear of the car to make it "rotate" more- thus carrying more corner speed. The downside is that if you aren't capable of driving at the level of precision that Surikarn, Teemu, Baker, etc drive, then you will most likely oversteer with that setup and it will make you lose confidence in the car while racing.
Much better description.

Although I have set my car with the 2mm spacers I didn't find it any harder to drive then before I put them in. Not that I'm comparing myself to the guys you mentioned above. I just found the car was extremely quick around corners and almost on rails.

Quote:
Originally posted by Steevo
Does the one-way strip while just running the car normally or only if you have a crash. Also does it strip only with modified motors or does it do it with stock as well.
I have found most of the problems are when you hit something while accelerating, other then that they seem to be fine. Just make sure you don't overtighten the 4 screws holding the ring gear in so that it warps the gear.

Tony
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Old 08-26-2003, 07:00 PM   #3425
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Default Re: THANKS

Quote:
Originally posted by Steevo
Does the one-way strip while just running the car normally or only if you have a crash. Also does it strip only with modified motors or does it do it with stock as well.
No idea...

Got a e3 in about May. Have only driven the e3 with either
the Square ring and now the Tamiya CF ring on the gear.
Screws are carefully loctite'd and never overtightened.
Gear mesh appears fine, no shims used.

Car has since done about 6hrs tracktime over 3-4 sessions.
Most of that courtesy of Novak SS, some with Monster.

In that period am sure I've managed to hit *every* board
on the whole track, including several pretty spectacular
aerial flights of 4-6' airtime.

At last teardown, the diff gear is still in good condition.
I have not used any of my spares yet.




All I can think of... the diff's 2 bearings sit on little nubs on
the gearcase sides. You must physically PUSH the diff assembly
into/onto the nubs, all the way in. They just about go 'clup!' in.
Do not rely on the gearcase cover to push it in for you.
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Old 08-26-2003, 07:37 PM   #3426
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WC- most tranny cases don't require you "push" or force the diff bearings into them. This would probably account for why you haven't chipped any teeth- yours is shimmed without needing any shims! Since I began studying the problem a few weeks ago, I have noticed some tranny cases like yours and there are a number of people who say the same thing you do- no problems. However, I'm friends with a Tamiya sponsored driver and the sponsored guys are getting the oneway diff rings by the box fulls, so I don't think there's any questions of whether or not there's an actual problem.

I'm working right now to find out if it can be easily and cheaply fixed.
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Old 08-26-2003, 07:50 PM   #3427
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BTW- is Rob Canare on here? Isn't that the name of the fella that won 19t at the Reedy? There were quite a few cars in 19t at the Reedy. Besides chatting with Rob, I would like to know his CS-27/asphalt setup.
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Old 08-26-2003, 08:07 PM   #3428
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Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing
WC- most tranny cases don't require you "push" or force the diff bearings into them. This would probably account for why you haven't chipped any teeth- yours is shimmed without needing any shims! Since I began studying the problem a few weeks ago, I have noticed some tranny cases like yours and there are a number of people who say the same thing you do- no problems. However, I'm friends with a Tamiya sponsored driver and the sponsored guys are getting the oneway diff rings by the box fulls, so I don't think there's any questions of whether or not there's an actual problem.
heehee... I have 5 gearcases spread between 2 cars.
(And scored a scarily HUGE supply of new diff gears too.)



There's been sites that recommend sanding out the nubs... but
no, if you look real close I think that's Tamiya's deliberate design.
(imho They just forgot to instruct users to PUSH the diff in!?)

As long as you push it in, the gearbox cap's 3 screws (I changed
to machine hexheads) are strong enough to hold it in even after
a hard knock. But they're not strong enough to push it in for you,
usually leads to stripped threads before the cover is snug tight.

I have even tried using the gearcase cover to push... but that
doesn't work as well as pushing on the diff itself before putting
the cover on.


Its an easy visual check whether the diff is sitting on the nubs...
just look at the outdrive, there should be same amt of bearing
visible all around it. If the aperture is oval/elongated, then the
gearcase cover is ajar and the diff is not sitting correctly.
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Old 08-27-2003, 01:41 AM   #3429
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Quote:
Originally posted by WC
heehee... I have 5 gearcases spread between 2 cars.
(And scored a scarily HUGE supply of new diff gears too.)



There's been sites that recommend sanding out the nubs... but
no, if you look real close I think that's Tamiya's deliberate design.
(imho They just forgot to instruct users to PUSH the diff in!?)

As long as you push it in, the gearbox cap's 3 screws (I changed
to machine hexheads) are strong enough to hold it in even after
a hard knock. But they're not strong enough to push it in for you,
usually leads to stripped threads before the cover is snug tight.

I have even tried using the gearcase cover to push... but that
doesn't work as well as pushing on the diff itself before putting
the cover on.


Its an easy visual check whether the diff is sitting on the nubs...
just look at the outdrive, there should be same amt of bearing
visible all around it. If the aperture is oval/elongated, then the
gearcase cover is ajar and the diff is not sitting correctly.
So the problem is with the diff moving forward under Impact. If this is the case then how would putting shimms on help.
This will stop the sideways movement but the diff could still move forward....

steevo
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Old 08-27-2003, 04:00 AM   #3430
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I just fixed a way to adjust the float of the little bevelgear. I drilled a 2.5mm hole where the bearing sits and installed a 3mm setscrew. With the screw you can adjust the float.
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Old 08-27-2003, 04:08 AM   #3431
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I just received the LRP Quantum 2 Will install it on my TB EVO 3 SL and see the outcome
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Old 08-27-2003, 07:37 AM   #3432
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Quote:
Originally posted by Steevo
So the problem is with the diff moving forward under Impact. If this is the case then how would putting shimms on help.
This will stop the sideways movement but the diff could still move forward....
That's not the problem Steevo. The problem is that the pinion fear floats in the transmission housing. Tamiya did that on purpose trying to reduce binding from the shaft. It didn't work very well...
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Old 08-27-2003, 07:45 AM   #3433
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Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing
That's not the problem Steevo. The problem is that the pinion fear floats in the transmission housing. Tamiya did that on purpose trying to reduce binding from the shaft. It didn't work very well...
That floating is reduced with the Square gearbox but not completely removed
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Old 08-27-2003, 08:22 AM   #3434
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
What I have been running since some time now is a different oneway made by one of the drivers here. Itīs made in a different way so the gear is attached from the other side as itīs with the TC3. The diameter of the oneway is a little larger so the gear cantīfloat around but is completely centered. Also the gear is attached to a backingplate as large as the gear so it canīt move in any direction. With this oneway I had no broken gear now.
V12 - any chance you could take a couple pictures of the one-way you are using? It would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 08-27-2003, 08:53 AM   #3435
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Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing
BTW- is Rob Canare on here? Isn't that the name of the fella that won 19t at the Reedy? There were quite a few cars in 19t at the Reedy. Besides chatting with Rob, I would like to know his CS-27/asphalt setup.
Hi BDR? Rob? I've been called that before, esp by the chick who works at Diederich's when I get my white chocolate mochas hehe. I'm Rod

About the one-way gears...I've got a custom aluminum backplate made by one of the guys at Tamiya and it covers the entire backside of the gear (it even has been machined to fit into the recess of the gear) and every know and then I still strip gears. Typically it happens when you are on power in a crash or landing from a dot or curb.

As for my setup for asphault with CS-27's...here's the setup from the Reedy Race. It works well with both a spool and a one-way. I hope this helps.
Attached Images
File Type: gif evo3setup303.gif (104.5 KB, 129 views)
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