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Old 08-25-2003, 08:25 PM   #3406
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Steevo
When is the next off friday for brendale?
Might see if i can drag a few along with.....
Kit tyres+bl on the long is great fun
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Old 08-25-2003, 08:28 PM   #3407
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Default SET UP QUESTION

I have noticed on Surikarn's Set Up Sheet for various races that he has spacers under both sets of blocks in the rear end, therefore raising the suspension arms a little at the back.
Does anyone else do this and what handling characteristic does it provide (ie. what is the effect of doing this).

Steevo
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Old 08-25-2003, 08:32 PM   #3408
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Quote:
Originally posted by xray vision
Steevo
When is the next off friday for brendale?
Might see if i can drag a few along with.....
Kit tyres+bl on the long is great fun
September the 5th is the next "Electric Friday" according to their Calendar. This week end is 1/5 Scale starting Thursday till Sunday.
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Old 08-25-2003, 10:20 PM   #3409
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Default Re: SET UP QUESTION

Quote:
Originally posted by Steevo
I have noticed on Surikarn's Set Up Sheet for various races that he has spacers under both sets of blocks in the rear end, therefore raising the suspension arms a little at the back.
Does anyone else do this and what handling characteristic does it provide (ie. what is the effect of doing this).

Steevo
I have only seen that on the EVO 3 version not the SE version.

I believe the idea is to raise the roll center so that it's closer to the center of gravity, which would reduce the roll moment of the car. I think the upshot is that because the thinner chassis flexes more then removing someof the weight transfer makes the suspension do more of the work in getting grip.

I have tried the 2mm spacers on the EVO 3 SE version and did not like it. Once I removed them the car was much better balanced.

Tony
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Old 08-25-2003, 11:10 PM   #3410
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Thanks Tony,
Any other set up tips for the EvoIII SE. How is the out of the box set up??
I won't get to try my car for another couple of days yet but is there something that you think definately needs changing from the set up in the manual ..

Steevo
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Old 08-25-2003, 11:23 PM   #3411
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The box setup is fine, if not a tad twitchy when it comes to steering. That was my experience anyway.

Also try to avoid using the outer most shock holes on both the rear and front shock towers. Using the outer holes puts a lot of stress on the towers. I've noticed a slight fracture on my front towers since I started using the outer holes to stand them up more. It may be better to use a rear shock tower on the front as they are bit firmer.

Ask defMondo, he has been using the rear tower on the front for some time.
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Old 08-25-2003, 11:56 PM   #3412
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Quote:
Originally posted by David
...what final drive do you guys use with the novak brushless?
The ex-Itchy mobile is sporting ~5.9...
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Old 08-26-2003, 12:29 AM   #3413
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Quote:
Originally posted by WC
The ex-Itchy mobile is sporting ~5.9...
My car has been pimped around alot
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Old 08-26-2003, 01:27 AM   #3414
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I phoned tamiya usa and they said they have them but they dont ship overseas and said if u find an american shop that does get them to order them from us so i phoned speedtech and he said he doesnt do clothing now i dont no any more shops that will do it for me.so cud ne of u guys tell me some hs that sell overseas in america.thanks
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Old 08-26-2003, 07:15 AM   #3415
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Quote:
Originally posted by Steevo
Thanks Tony,
Any other set up tips for the EvoIII SE. How is the out of the box set up??
I won't get to try my car for another couple of days yet but is there something that you think definately needs changing from the set up in the manual ..

Steevo
If you use the manual settings based on the camber link lengths and toe links then I think it's not that impressive. but here is what I use and seems to be fairly good.

camber front and rear 2 degrees
toe front 0 degrees
toe rear (B block) 2.5 degrees
ride height front and rear 5mm
front upper shock position outer most hole
rear upper shock position hole #4
wheel spacers front/rear 1mm
swaybars front/rear yellow

everything else is prety much as per manual.

I usually run on Take Off 27 tyres.

Just adjust droop depending on balance of car and bumpiness of the track.

Hope I haven't forgotten anything.
Tony
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Old 08-26-2003, 07:22 AM   #3416
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Quote:
Originally posted by WC
The ex-Itchy mobile is sporting ~5.9...
WC,

5.9 with with the brushless motor, wow.

When are you going to race it? Wouldn't mind comparing it to a 12turn P94 []

Tony
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Old 08-26-2003, 09:34 AM   #3417
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Default Re: SET UP QUESTION

Quote:
Originally posted by Steevo
I have noticed on Surikarn's Set Up Sheet for various races that he has spacers under both sets of blocks in the rear end, therefore raising the suspension arms a little at the back.
Does anyone else do this and what handling characteristic does it provide (ie. what is the effect of doing this).
Steevo, raising the inner hinge pins raises the roll center and lowers the roll moment like Tony stated earlier. However, he was doing it not to gain traction, but to loosen the rear of the car. The reason is that the 2mm chassis is flexible therefore biasing the traction f/r balance toward the rear. By raising the real roll center he loosens the rear of the car to make it "rotate" more- thus carrying more corner speed. The downside is that if you aren't capable of driving at the level of precision that Surikarn, Teemu, Baker, etc drive, then you will most likely oversteer with that setup and it will make you lose confidence in the car while racing.

If you want to understand more- the reason Surikarn would raise the roll center to make the car rotate better is because he feels the he has found the best combination of spring/shock position/swaybar and doesn't want to change that. You may think, well why not just stand the shock up one more hole to make the car rotate better or spring it up in the rear? Most likely the reason is that he doesn't want to make the car seem more "violent" (for lack of a better term) when it actually does begin to break loose in the rear. By raising the roll center he biases a little traction toward the front, but keeps a "calm" reacting setup if or when it may lose rear traction and begin to break loose. It's a LOT easier to "catch" the car when it oversteers in a smooth manner as opposed to slinging the rear around.

On a side note- I have the beginning of a foam tire setup for the Surikarn car on asphalt (very high traction- almost like carpet)

And one last thing- someone already mentioned this, but they were waaay off on the amount of shims (IMO). On the front oneway you need .3mm shimming the diff toward the shaft, and on the rear you need .2mm. Unfortunately, you will begin to feel a "tight spot" in the drivetrain as a result of the .3mm shim in the front, but there is no other choice right now. FYI- I know what the problem is, but I don't know an easy way to fix it correctly yet. Shiming the diff toward the shaft with a zero lash result is NOT the corect way to fix this problem, it is merely a temporary band-aid.
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Old 08-26-2003, 11:25 AM   #3418
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Default Re: Re: SET UP QUESTION

Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing

And one last thing- someone already mentioned this, but they were waaay off on the amount of shims (IMO). On the front oneway you need .3mm shimming the diff toward the shaft, and on the rear you need .2mm. Unfortunately, you will begin to feel a "tight spot" in the drivetrain as a result of the .3mm shim in the front, but there is no other choice right now. FYI- I know what the problem is, but I don't know an easy way to fix it correctly yet. Shiming the diff toward the shaft with a zero lash result is NOT the corect way to fix this problem, it is merely a temporary band-aid.
Agreed! I think the solution is better made gears. I'd love to see someone mill "proper" gears with perfect backlash for the Evo III and run them to see if they last.
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Old 08-26-2003, 11:29 AM   #3419
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evoracer you have pm
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Old 08-26-2003, 11:54 AM   #3420
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Default Square aluminum gearcase.

Anyone have succes with one of these?I may order one if it will help at all for the front..
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