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Old 07-31-2003, 06:55 PM   #3121
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Hi NMRCDude, could you specifiy if it is a standard Evo or a Surikarn?

If it is a standard Evo and you do not have the new carbon one way plate, you must be very careful when you tighten the four screws that hold the gear onto the oneway unit. If you tighten them too much, you will warp the one way gear, causing a clicky/binding sound or feel. What I used to do (pre-backing plate era) was to use blue loctite on the screws and tighten them down until they are just snug. If you don't have the backing plate, I highly recommend it.

You could also check your oneway outdrives...they do wear out after lots of running.

Check your universals to make sure they are clean and well lubed.

Also make sure that the bearings are completely pressed onto the pinion/crown gears. A little bit of movement on these and the drivetrain will again exihibit a clicky/bindy feeling.

I hope this helps.
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Old 07-31-2003, 07:04 PM   #3122
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Thanks rtypec,

Well its a standard edition Evo 3, but with the uber Kai chassis kit, if it makes a difference.

Ive got that carbon one way plate on the way, but i will definitely check it out.

Also, how free is your drivetrain on your Evo 3? I can feel that im almost to complete freedom except for this clicking!

Thanks again,

Alex
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Old 07-31-2003, 07:07 PM   #3123
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How long did it spin? Oh geez...I remember a time when I first installed blown out ceramic bearings that I could blow on the spur and the drivetrain would spin up. With wheels on, it went for like 15-20 seconds. Nowadays, it only spins for like 10...What's important is that your drivetrain is not bindy or clicky so that your motor can spin the spur with the least amount of effort.
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Old 07-31-2003, 07:25 PM   #3124
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Ack, this is really pissing me off!!!!

I just threw in a completely different one-way unit with an un-warped one-way gear, but my car still clicks!! But now, im not really sure if its coming from the front or the rear of the car!! I just went into our living room..comletely quiet...and i still cannot tell. Im guessing that if it is coming from the rear, its something thats binding. ugh, Ill go check it out...
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Old 07-31-2003, 08:31 PM   #3125
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NMRCDude, if any, how much do you have the shaft shimmed between the spur gear adapter and motor mount? Too many shims will bind the drivetrain and make it click. Also try loosing the 2 screws on the front and rear of the diff covers, what are the sizes of those screws? They should be, wait let me get my manual........3X8mm. Any thing longer I'm sure will start binding the bearings, also try swapping the diff covers front and rear.
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Old 07-31-2003, 08:43 PM   #3126
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FREQUENCY of the clicking should tell you where its coming from.

1 click for every turn of the wheels...
-outdrives have moved out (use 1 o-ring in each cup)
-uni shafts worn/sticking
-dirty bearing on diffs or hub holders

2.6 equally-spaced clicks for every turn of the wheels...
-centre shaft out of whack
-bevel pinion needs attention.
-centre bearing binding
-foreign object touching the shaft (will wear away anodising)

Several unequally-spaced clicks
-front bevel spur has lost teeth
-rear diff gear might need attention



As for the 1-way backing plates...
-previously had the (I think) Square ally one. Overtightening this will still warp the plastic gear.
-before that, have also tried using small washers under the 4 screws. Spreads the stress, works ok.
-now have the Tamiya one. Best way is to loctite & snug the screws down. Although it is now near impossible to squish the plastic, any tighter and you'll have difficulty undoing the tiny M2 countersunk screws as you could strip the phillips head.
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Old 07-31-2003, 10:25 PM   #3127
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Quote:
Originally posted by NMRCDude
Ack, this is really pissing me off!!!!

I just threw in a completely different one-way unit with an un-warped one-way gear, but my car still clicks!! But now, im not really sure if its coming from the front or the rear of the car!! I just went into our living room..comletely quiet...and i still cannot tell. Im guessing that if it is coming from the rear, its something thats binding. ugh, Ill go check it out...
Hmmm,
I had a similar sound on my TB Evo II once.. It turned out that one of the pins that hold the wheel axle and the swing shaft together had slipped out slightly and was hitting every revolution.
Just check them to make sure this has not happened to you...

Steevo
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Old 07-31-2003, 11:29 PM   #3128
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Mine had a slight clicking sound when it was brand new, but now it has gone away. Kinda weird...

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Old 07-31-2003, 11:58 PM   #3129
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Well...

Ive got some good news/bad news.

Good News - I fixed the one-way clicking problem

Bad News- The rear diff is now creating a clicking noise due to some bad gear mesh at 1 certain point

Good News- I can easily fix that with another rebuild.

Good News- Through all my working on this one problem, My drivetrain is now free as can be. 1 spin of the tires and i get around 17 seconds total. Not bad!

Thanks to all that contributed info, its greatly apprectiated!
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Old 08-01-2003, 01:06 AM   #3130
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Quote:
Originally posted by NMRCDude
...My drivetrain is now free as can be. 1 spin of the tires and i get around 17 seconds total.
17s??
Thanks mate.
No guesses what my weekend will be spent doing now...
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Old 08-01-2003, 04:06 AM   #3131
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Rod, wich ceramic bearings are you using in your EVO? because i heard that Acer shields make the bearing have a little drag...and i want to race my bearings with shields...any info is welcome! thanks!
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Old 08-01-2003, 08:02 AM   #3132
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I used acer ceramic bearings, Tamiya may be investigating ceramics for use in the near future . I blew them out and relubed them with some light oil. They don't need to be blown out because they come prelubed with a oil, not grease, but I did out of habit. Also, the rubber seals on the bearings are a little draggy at first but when you've put a couple of packs through the car, they seem to really free up. Overall, I was pleased with the ceramic bearings...it wasn't like they were faster or anything, they just held up a lot longer with less maintenance. I used mine for six months before I replaced them. Now I'm running the Tamiya blue shield bearings in the axles and Xray high speed bearings on the diff/oneway. It's free but not "blow on the spur to spin up the drivetrain" free.
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Old 08-01-2003, 10:12 AM   #3133
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Default handout motor?

Help w/ handout motor.. as a rookie, I can't tell when I've finally found a good spur/pinion combination... I'm gonna be running a handout motor tomorrow, and I don't know how/where to start from? Problem is, they give us the motors like 10 minutes before the race starts.. The motors are Trinity "Rookie Tuned" motors. Someone from this forum that I met at a race a while back, just told me to Over-gear the hell out of it, but I don't even know what would be considered overgearing=X.. any help would be very much appreciated=)
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Old 08-01-2003, 10:20 AM   #3134
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Quote:
Originally posted by AQuionIV
Help w/ handout motor.. as a rookie, I can't tell when I've finally found a good spur/pinion combination... I'm gonna be running a handout motor tomorrow, and I don't know how/where to start from? Problem is, they give us the motors like 10 minutes before the race starts.. The motors are Trinity "Rookie Tuned" motors. Someone from this forum that I met at a race a while back, just told me to Over-gear the hell out of it, but I don't even know what would be considered overgearing=X.. any help would be very much appreciated=)
getting ready for HiTec ayyyyee.

Over gearing = Smallest spur: Highest pinion.

Seriously, I'm serious! Look around 4.xxx ratio
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Old 08-01-2003, 10:22 AM   #3135
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I don't think it's going to be a 23T handout motor guys. If it's a Trinity handout, chances are it's a Paradox based motor, so gear it accordingly.
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