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Old 07-28-2003, 12:27 AM   #3076
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Quote:
Originally posted by GTMilenko
i think any spur is more durable than tamiya's! try the rw racing spurs and pinions they are great! also if it's becoming a real problem you might want to go to 48 pitch, it can hand the little stones and what not much better, but 48pitch is noiser and a little less smooth. i use 48pitch and i just changed the spur for the first time in about 2months! and there are stones and bits of little things all over all our track and carparks! i use to have to replace the tamiya spurs every race meet, and usaully the pinion as well! thank god for rw racing and 48 pitch
i'll look into getting new spurs once the one's given are gone! thanks
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Old 07-28-2003, 01:41 AM   #3077
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How does the TB-EVO III Surikarn Edition compare with a TC3 Factory Team, as regarding acceleration, etc?
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Old 07-28-2003, 01:42 AM   #3078
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Originally posted by rtypec
No worries, davioh. It's hard to contain our enthusiasm about the Evo3 sometimes It's all good.

It could be worse, have you seen some of the signatures in the baracuda thread? Take about a scrolling and hunting for the message!

Rod you wouldn`t be talking about me would you hahahaahaha

I should come here and post all of the new stuff that comes out the the EBO Tray for you guys ....so you will have your fingers in check for the Cuda Thread

IT`s all good....

Shaft Drive Love For All ....... .well the TC-3 gets none

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Old 07-28-2003, 03:32 AM   #3079
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GtMilenko, the downside with drilling big holes in the rim is that you may have to use tirewarmers. Because you are not allowed to use tiresauce I would suggest to use a 3mm holes instead and try to clean the tires with motorspray between races. Actually the tiresauce is extremly important to get the tire to work, just look at surikarn at worlds and his special blend.
If you have the square centerbraces you could try remove one of them and see what happens. More flex normally produce a easier car to drive under these conditions.
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Old 07-28-2003, 04:51 AM   #3080
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mr_Orange
GtMilenko, the downside with drilling big holes in the rim is that you may have to use tirewarmers. Because you are not allowed to use tiresauce I would suggest to use a 3mm holes instead and try to clean the tires with motorspray between races. Actually the tiresauce is extremly important to get the tire to work, just look at surikarn at worlds and his special blend.
If you have the square centerbraces you could try remove one of them and see what happens. More flex normally produce a easier car to drive under these conditions.
i always use tire warmers so that should be fine.
i would love to use some sort of traction additive, but i'd hate to be a cheater and have a unfair advange.
are there other things i chould use to clean the tires? motor spray costs so much and i go thur enough of it as it is!
i do have the square center brace as well as the square front brace. i might have to try taking out the very center brace.
anyhow tell me more about which tire sauce you use, and do you have to put it on between every race? just curous if you don't mind. thanks again
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Old 07-28-2003, 04:56 AM   #3081
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With regards to cleanning tyres with motor spray, it works very well but I found that it dries the tyres out and reduces the life.

If I was to use something to clean tyres I would use WD40 , fantastic product, just clean the tyres with it, leave it for 10-15 minutes then either wipe off with a dry rag (ie: not full of motor spray, wd40, oil etc) or put tyre warmers on for about 5-10 minutes to dry the wd40 off.

I have a set of Take off 27's which have had 16+ runs on them in 27 turn Stock and they are still looking and working fairly well. I never got anywhere near that many runs on any set of tyres I cleaned with motorspray.

Works a treat.

Tony
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Old 07-28-2003, 05:29 AM   #3082
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Its true that motorspray dries the tyre out but tiresauce softens the rubber again. Actually we use brakecleaner for motorspray, same stuff, alot cheaper. Also try out WD40, nice cheap stuff for tireadditive. In Europe we are forced to use non-smelling tireadditives and there is alot choose from like Lrp, Team orion and CS. Which one that works best depends on the trackcondition and needs to be tested beforehand. You apply the stuff about 40 min before and wipe it of when go out and drive. The new generation of tires like Sorex and Take-offs are designed for use with tireadditives and produce more grip and better wear with it.
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Old 07-28-2003, 06:10 AM   #3083
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Mr_Orange,

What traction compound do CS make? I can't find it on their website.
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Old 07-28-2003, 09:42 AM   #3084
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CS makes 2 different traction compounds. Both are odorless.
C6400 is the CS highgrip (yellow).
C6420 is the CS mediumgrip (blue).

Im not sure but I think the CS traction compounds are working better on carpet than on asphalt.

On carpet Im using the CS highgrip most times.
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Old 07-28-2003, 02:45 PM   #3085
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Ah thanks for that, we don't have many carpet tracks here in Australia, I'm only aware of 2 and they are to far from where I live.

Might have to stick with WD40 or Trinity Death Grip.

Tony
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Old 07-28-2003, 06:10 PM   #3086
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Anyone know what the biggest 64P spur gear you can put into a evo 3 without modification?

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Old 07-28-2003, 06:14 PM   #3087
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100 or possibly a 102
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Old 07-28-2003, 08:32 PM   #3088
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Well guys...here's a little something stupid to share with all of you. Maybe you can learn a little from my mistake.

Do not seal your chassis with super glue under a flourescent light!

The lighting accelerates the CA and causes the ugly white crazing. I resanded the edges of my chassis and had to start over...this time under a regular desklamp. Even then...my brand new 3mm chassis lucks fugly! Actually...as long as it turns out halfway decent, I won't care as long as the car is fast haha!
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Old 07-28-2003, 09:41 PM   #3089
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I hate it when it turns white.

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Old 07-28-2003, 10:58 PM   #3090
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Quote:
Originally posted by rtypec
Well guys...here's a little something stupid to share with all of you. Maybe you can learn a little from my mistake.

Do not seal your chassis with super glue under a flourescent light!

The lighting accelerates the CA and causes the ugly white crazing. I resanded the edges of my chassis and had to start over...this time under a regular desklamp. Even then...my brand new 3mm chassis lucks fugly! Actually...as long as it turns out halfway decent, I won't care as long as the car is fast haha!
Should've used Pacer's "plasti-zap CA++" which is formulated to not fog. I used it to seal all the carbon fiber edges(even the spur gear adapter plate) on my evo3 under my ott-lite and man it is pretty as can be, real slick like surface too. No offense RtypeC.
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