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Old 07-27-2003, 10:00 AM   #3061
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Lol madhack...haha Read one or two messages on that thread and then you have to scroll.

TA said that no containers came in last week. I just placed an order for a bunch o spares and hop ups for my Evo3 from R10. Couldn't wait until crunch time before TCS to figure this stuff out if you know what I mean. I didn't order any surikarn upgrade bits at all. I'm gonna keep mine stock until after nationals. Then I'll think about building one of my surikarn cars...but even then, i'm not sure.

Also, rumor has it that rules for the Nats might be posted early this week Sometimes, I wonder how Fred puts up with us. We're such a needy bunch.
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Old 07-27-2003, 10:02 AM   #3062
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We make you all scroll... Buahahahahahaha
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Old 07-27-2003, 10:38 AM   #3063
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hey guys, if i lower the inner camber ball stud, will i get more ONpower steering?

I got it on the top innermost right now. we changed our track and i need more on power steering... I've changed springs, sways and bodies and I'm almost there...I had it setup like surikarn first setup...I'm at silver fronts, green rear, red front sway, blue rear sway.
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Old 07-27-2003, 12:32 PM   #3064
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Quote:
Originally posted by teamAE
Do you guys styill have any problems with the gears striping or did they fix it with the back plate?
I got the back plate support and it helped, but it still knocked the tops of the teeth off the ring gear when I caught a pipe. My car was glitching really bad (I think the speedo is crapping out) and I hit pretty hard, but not hard enough to break anythign else. My next project is the TC3 gears to see if that fixes it from being so brittle.
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Old 07-27-2003, 01:18 PM   #3065
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Quote:
Originally posted by rtypec
GT: Your car is understeering? Where? coming into a corner, mid, exit? Your setup looks like it would have a ton of steering. Have you tried dropping the front upper inner camber links (if you have a standard Evo) and have you played with anti squat?
thanks for helping! i agree that this setup should have a ton of steering!
my car is understeering at all 3 stages of the corner! the only way i could get oversteer was to quickly turn the oppersit way of the corner before turning in or to hit the brake as turning in. at my last meet i got around it a little by putting cs22 on the front and cs27 on the back, but i started to loose front traction torwards the end of the races(over heating the tires i presume)
i have the original evo, but with the new camber links, i will tried droping the links down, and i'll try adding some anti squat.
i've just put a d block on the front to try and get more steering throw, and turned my dual rate rite upto %120 and my end points are upto %109. i've yet to try this s it is raining. could you please tell me how many degrees the front wheels should turn?
thanks again!
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Old 07-27-2003, 03:39 PM   #3066
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Quote:
Originally posted by rtypec


Johnny J: The 700# is a metric weight as opposed to an SAE weight that Losi and AE uses. There is no definable way of calculating a conversion between the two. Your best bet is to puchase a collection of Tamiya damper oils, they're relatively inexpensive and it's awesome stuff.

53443 Silicon Damper Oil Soft Set (#200,300,400)
53444 Silicon Damper Oil Medium Set (#500,600,700)
53445 Silicon Damper Oil Hard Set (#800,900,1000)

I thought about doing that, but i heard the best thing to do with Tamiya oils was chuck it in the bin? Maybe that was Kyosho oil. So the Medium oil set has the 700# oil im after? I'll go grab some then, thanks a lot
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Old 07-27-2003, 03:44 PM   #3067
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Gt Milenko, what tires, rims and inserts are you using? If you are using wrong tire/rim/insert combo you will never get the car to behave. Also if you are making the rear too stiff the car will start to understeer.
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Old 07-27-2003, 04:35 PM   #3068
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mr_Orange
Gt Milenko, what tires, rims and inserts are you using? If you are using wrong tire/rim/insert combo you will never get the car to behave. Also if you are making the rear too stiff the car will start to understeer.
i've been using take off tires cs27's, hpi red inserts, yokomo rims
i'm about to try some sorex 32r's with the same inserts.

please explain how a stiff rear would cause understeer?
i find it hard to beleive that stiffening the rear would make it understeer, a stiff rear stops too much wieght transering to the rear, correct? any way i've tried red and yellow springs in the back and i have much more steering with the blue(but still not enough!).
i've also tried cs22's with red(medium) and orange(meduim soft) inserts.
i've tried yokomo hotlaps(they sucked for my track) and i've tried kyosho 35's, i've liked the cs27's the most.
thanks for any help.
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Old 07-27-2003, 05:27 PM   #3069
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Im also using cs-27 tires and we had a major problem with understeering at first. After some testing we have found out a working rim/insert combo consisting of a soft rim and Hpi red insert. The yokomo rims are rock hard and and work best on highgrip tracks like the ones in japan or at big races where the grip comes up. If used on low-medium grip track they will cause understeering. Also drill 4 big 5mm holes in the rim to prevent overheating of the tire. For tiresauce we are using LRP Asphalt grip. Cs27 also perform better when they are a little worn.
Use hole no 4 on the rear shocktower for the upperarm to get more turn-in.
For the stiff rearend thing read Andreas Myrbergs racereport from a JMRCA race in japan. It explains how he got rid of understeering and he was the one that told me about it 2 years ago. https://www.mytsn.com/publ/publmem.asp?pid=8367
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Old 07-27-2003, 07:59 PM   #3070
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just woundering didnt the evo 3 have a problem with its spur striping when it hit something hard and can you buy something to fix this up so it doesnt happen?, and is there any other problems about it. and does it accelerate as fast as the tc3 or better?and is it a strong car.(and are parts still available cause i thought that they would stop becasue of the surikan edition being brought out)


thanks Matt
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Old 07-27-2003, 08:10 PM   #3071
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In my past two racing events... each of my buddies(two different guys) TC3's have busted a part by hitting the wall rather softly... I've been thrown into the wall, done barrel rolls off of the domes, hit other cars out of the way, run into walls pretty hard, had a body come off when the pins fell out on a tumble... but i have yet to break a part. And my friends keep asking me to join their TC3 club... HAHAHAHAHA.... atleast I can finish the race.
and I never had that gear stripping problem... I installed a front ball diff right off the bat. hint hint!
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Old 07-27-2003, 08:20 PM   #3072
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Aluma you ain't the only one my track is populated by TC3 and XXX S's (which I have 2 of and will be selling)every one has broken out at one time or another but I've finished .Boy that is a great feeling.
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Old 07-27-2003, 08:50 PM   #3073
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my spur gear strips sometimes, it's the original evo spur. dirt flys from the hole from below and gets caught between the gears...so what i do is put some strapping tap to cover up the hole...are the white spurs more durable than the original tamiya's?
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Old 07-27-2003, 11:58 PM   #3074
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mr_Orange
Im also using cs-27 tires and we had a major problem with understeering at first. After some testing we have found out a working rim/insert combo consisting of a soft rim and Hpi red insert. The yokomo rims are rock hard and and work best on highgrip tracks like the ones in japan or at big races where the grip comes up. If used on low-medium grip track they will cause understeering. Also drill 4 big 5mm holes in the rim to prevent overheating of the tire. For tiresauce we are using LRP Asphalt grip. Cs27 also perform better when they are a little worn.
Use hole no 4 on the rear shocktower for the upperarm to get more turn-in.
For the stiff rearend thing read Andreas Myrbergs racereport from a JMRCA race in japan. It explains how he got rid of understeering and he was the one that told me about it 2 years ago. https://www.mytsn.com/publ/publmem.asp?pid=8367
thanks! thats some intresting info! i never new that the softness/stiffness of the rim effected handling! i'll try some softer ones.
as for over heating the tires this only happened to the cs22's, do you still recommend i drill 4 holes in the rims anyway? we aren't allowed to use tiresauce.
and i am using the new camberlinks(like on the SEVO) and i have the link in the middle hole as low as it goes, i've just put the front one down as low as in goes aswell(yet to try it out).
one more thing do you think taking the centrebraces out would help? on a meduim/low surface?
thanks heaps by the way!
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Old 07-28-2003, 12:05 AM   #3075
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Quote:
Originally posted by davioh
my spur gear strips sometimes, it's the original evo spur. dirt flys from the hole from below and gets caught between the gears...so what i do is put some strapping tap to cover up the hole...are the white spurs more durable than the original tamiya's?
i think any spur is more durable than tamiya's! try the rw racing spurs and pinions they are great! also if it's becoming a real problem you might want to go to 48 pitch, it can hand the little stones and what not much better, but 48pitch is noiser and a little less smooth. i use 48pitch and i just changed the spur for the first time in about 2months! and there are stones and bits of little things all over all our track and carparks! i use to have to replace the tamiya spurs every race meet, and usaully the pinion as well! thank god for rw racing and 48 pitch
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