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Old 06-05-2003, 03:56 PM   #2431
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1,) Use glass tape instead. Lighter, and keeps the battery down.

2.) If you chance to a 48 pitch spur, u'll need to use a 48 pitch pinion too.

3) I run the Square mount that doubles as a servo mount. IF you have a transponder mount that just sticks on, then on top of the servo would be the ideal place. I try to get the weight even from the weight of the battery from the left side, so I place everything else on the right.

Hope I'm able to be of some help=). Good luck on your race, and more power 2 ur evo 3
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Old 06-05-2003, 04:43 PM   #2432
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Quote:
Originally posted by AQuionIV
I run the Square mount that doubles as a servo mount.
Aha! You know that square mount isn't TCS legal... hehehe...
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Old 06-05-2003, 04:47 PM   #2433
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i have the square one too! i love it!
i see alot of guys just put the transponder on there car bodies thur a hole at my club,
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Old 06-05-2003, 06:26 PM   #2434
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hahah.. that's y I took it out. We're running AMB transponders right?? cuz if not, then I guess I'm gonna have to cut a hole on my body again.. heheh
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Old 06-05-2003, 09:04 PM   #2435
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Hey Ian

I don't think Peter is thinking of running TCS except maybe regionals. Since he won, and went to the land of the rising sun, he is uneligible to enter NATS again.
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Old 06-05-2003, 10:43 PM   #2436
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Is he even able to do regionals?
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Old 06-05-2003, 10:53 PM   #2437
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Has anyone been able to get a setup to work with B2's at the Tamiya HQ with the evo 3. I heard these tires are very tempermental and just curious how the setup looks. I think I'm gonna go to TCS Nats next year if I get my evo 3 anytime soon...

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Old 06-06-2003, 10:31 AM   #2438
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guys, to mount the transponder....
1. go buy some of those LONG body pins that go through both posts.

2. put one of those pins under your body holder pins.
3. cut a piece of fuel line the width of the body posts.
4. cut a transponder post size piece off the middle of the fuel line.
5. take the pin out of the 2nd post, put in one of the fuel lines, the transponder, then the other fuel line, now re-insert the long pin with all the stuff on it into the 2nd post.

Voila, a nice, centered, UP FRONT transponder mount! This is a life saver for those really close races... since yours will be in the front and the other guys will be in the middle of the car...you can still win if he has half a car length lead! hahahaha

oh yeah... and the added front weight = more steering to boot!
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Old 06-06-2003, 01:36 PM   #2439
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Pete and I are unable to run Regionals due to sponsorship from Tamiya. Both of us will be down for Nats and at Reginals to help and answer any questions we can.

Past champions is supposed to be a go this year and rumor is FWD Mod should be fun, and a good spectacle. Scotty is drooling over the thoughts.
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Old 06-06-2003, 02:59 PM   #2440
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Default TB Evo III Surikarn LTD ED

Hi All,
Just wondering if the buy price on this Auction is fair or is it a little high.

Here's the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=44022

Steevo
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Old 06-06-2003, 03:16 PM   #2441
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Thumbs down Ebay Price

Hey Steevo,

I saw that tonight, the price seems to be a little high, my contacts here in Perth say they will be recieving the Surikarn Edition for $700 AUD or less. But it hasnt been released in Australia as far as I know yet, so if you are in a hurry for one...... ??!!
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Old 06-06-2003, 03:55 PM   #2442
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dan the Man
Hey Steevo,

I saw that tonight, the price seems to be a little high, my contacts here in Perth say they will be recieving the Surikarn Edition for $700 AUD or less. But it hasnt been released in Australia as far as I know yet, so if you are in a hurry for one...... ??!!
From what I have seen in the past Dan, that particular seller seems to put a premium price on newly released kits to cash in on the demand. When the demand is not so high their prices are reasonably good.
Personally I figure $499US to be a fair bit more than the real "street price" but I could be wrong.

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Old 06-07-2003, 06:13 AM   #2443
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hey guys, anyone had this happen? when i tighten up the screws that hold the gearbox together it makes the gear mesh to tight or something and the driveline because a bit harder to turn, if i put a 0.5mm spacer between the two top screws(of the 3) and the two parts of the gearbox it frees up nice. but when i brake the gears click? the gear are brand new and this happened with the last set of gears too.
any simple fixs?
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Old 06-07-2003, 09:13 AM   #2444
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Oops, forgot about the sponsorship part of the deal!

As for the price on the surikarn ed. should be about $400 US by the pricing on horizons computer as of now.
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Old 06-07-2003, 09:38 AM   #2445
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GT

Do not use any shims in this area. If you do you WILL strip, or even chip the teeth on one of the gears. When you do this you loose the horizontal mesh between the ring and pinion gears. Meaning the diff can slide out of the case that much more. I actually used sand paper (to level the case top and botton faces) to allow this cover to sit more flat and tighter on the case and shock tower. My chassis is just as free as any other EVO III out there, no binding in this area. Well ok peter's might be better only cause of his alloy cases.

This is the problem a lot of people have had with thier EVO III's. The best solution I heard, is the cutting of the backing on the pinion (crown) gear for the diff. When you hit something the shaft moves forward, and the backing of the pinion gear pushes on the ring (diff) gear, and separates the gear mesh (if you are on the throttle, the shaft is still trying to rotate, and chips a tooth). The solution I and many others have used, is to use a sharp pair of side cutters, and remove all backing behind the teeth on the gear, then re-shim the diff with the 10mm shims now available from Tamiya. Just to make sure, when looking at the pinion gear from the front you see the teeth, but the back of the gear is round, cut the round part away! Do this only on the front gear though.

Kevin
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