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Old 05-22-2003, 12:02 AM   #2236
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Hi guys,

Just wondering if there's any disadvantage to mounting the RX on top of the servo. Or is it better to stand it up on its edge, between servo and ESC/motor.

ta!
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Old 05-22-2003, 01:14 AM   #2237
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I would put it as low as possible, if you can.

I have managed to make all mine fit on the deck by using a futaba 9550 servo which is about half the height of a normal servo.

Makes it neat as well.

Tony
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Old 05-22-2003, 04:08 AM   #2238
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ok for anyone who has been following my vibration problem, i've replace the whole driveline with new parts including:
full bearing set
4 cvd's
diff gears front & back
propellor shaft
and new wheels
i rebuild the whole car over from start again with the manaul redid everything(i mean everything!) and the car still virbrates when turning.
help! i need some serious knowledge!
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Old 05-22-2003, 04:34 AM   #2239
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it might be your motor and also check the tightness of ur diffs
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Old 05-22-2003, 04:42 AM   #2240
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Quote:
Originally posted by davioh
it might be your motor and also check the tightness of ur diffs
not the diff, besides i've tryed it with the one-way and its the same.
i don't see how it could be the motor, do you have a theory? i might have to try changing the motor i am running out of options.
but how could it be the motor? it only does it bad when turning and at low speeds. i drove it round it circles real slow and you can see the inside wheel pulling in and out.
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Old 05-22-2003, 04:43 AM   #2241
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I think the one way joints (outdrives) are sliding outwards from the oneway housing and this will cause the vibrations. Try using an O-ring inside the outdrives. This will stop the outdrives sliding outwards. The O-ring used with the shocks should work. Im using this will all my cars with oneways and it works.
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Old 05-22-2003, 08:32 AM   #2242
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u can also use one of the red foam thingys that go in the top of the shocks above the diaphragm. cut in half.

it is also worth checking the driveshaft cvd end. this could be binding when turning. I had this problem last year with the 414m, there were a batch of driveshafts we had that had a weak centre (where the grub screw goes) and these cracked causing binding and vibration issues.
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Old 05-22-2003, 01:16 PM   #2243
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
I think the one way joints (outdrives) are sliding outwards from the oneway housing and this will cause the vibrations. Try using an O-ring inside the outdrives. This will stop the outdrives sliding outwards. The O-ring used with the shocks should work. Im using this will all my cars with oneways and it works.
i don't use the one-way i have a diff in the front, but i've tryed both and the problem stays
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Old 05-22-2003, 01:21 PM   #2244
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jonny Boy


u can also use one of the red foam thingys that go in the top of the shocks above the diaphragm. cut in half.

it is also worth checking the driveshaft cvd end. this could be binding when turning. I had this problem last year with the 414m, there were a batch of driveshafts we had that had a weak centre (where the grub screw goes) and these cracked causing binding and vibration issues.
brand new cvds
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Old 05-23-2003, 12:23 AM   #2245
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Have noticed that my driveshaft has a shimmy when it is installed, but the shaft is perfectly straight & true when its out of the car. (When the drivetrain is running, nudge a fingernail against it near the front gearbox and you can feel it vibrating.)

Am suspecting the D-holes in little bevel pinions don't hold the shaft in spot centre. The vibes disappear at the centre bearing, and its there slightly at the rear too.


Had the drivetrain running on 4-cells for about 1/2 hr, and the vibration was enough to loosen the motor pod's screws - one even came out more than halfway. Yes, these were all threadlocked...
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Old 05-23-2003, 12:35 AM   #2246
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Quote:
Originally posted by V12
I think the one way joints (outdrives) are sliding outwards from the oneway housing and this will cause the vibrations. Try using an O-ring inside the outdrives.
No luck. Like I said, I was staring that the thing whirring away for 1/2 hr... and saw the front outdrives slowly creeping out. But whether they are in or out it made no real difference to the vibrations at the centre shaft. Whilst it was still turning I would nudge them back in, and they'd creep out again in about 30 secs.
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Old 05-23-2003, 01:15 AM   #2247
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the main shaft can turn in the D in the bevel gear in an impact, as i've done this before. this would cause a vibration, as the gear and shaft would run off centre.
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Old 05-23-2003, 07:30 PM   #2248
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hey guys

i need some help regarding the lower suspension arms for the evo 3. I snapped one last nite and need to get some replacements. Is it true that the ta04 and 414mII share the same suspension arms?
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Old 05-23-2003, 08:05 PM   #2249
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Can someone please hit me with a good high traction asphalt set for very warm to hot weather.

Questions:

What is a good shock length?

what about droop frt and rear?

Camber and toe.

Shock oil what weight what brand?

most guys here are running Take off cs27 tires Yoks, Assc, schum, Xray

Which swaybars to startwith

What about gearing for 19spec and stock with 48p spur or is the kit stuff really 64p?

But I must say i love this kit all I did was soak the bearings in Boca bearing bath and hit them with a light coat of Boca lube and the thing is so free WOW......... I was worried about some post were guys complained about the bearing they should do this trick it works.
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Old 05-24-2003, 04:04 AM   #2250
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i'm a electric newbie who has had a 2 year run in nitro. what option parts do i need for the surikarn edition evo 3?

-are there different caster blocks which i can purchase what are the part numbers?(front and rear blocks ) (part numbers please)

-also what gears and motor pinion gears do i have to buy for small/medium/large/extra large tracks?? (part numbers please)

-what are the part numbers for the option springs and swaybars?


i couldn't find any of it in the tamiya website
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