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Old 12-29-2015, 05:44 PM   #1
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Default BSR Racing M.RAGE mini

Just ordered one of these. The $75.60 price was irresistable. Add to that the low cost of HK electronics and I'm into it ready to run $400 not including a transponder and with $33 worth of spares I thought it may need. Any tips on how to build one, and how is the box stock setup? What parts break?

Lots of parts on backorder, how often does that happen and how long for inventory to replenish?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=78029

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Old 12-30-2015, 01:48 AM   #2
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Hi, I bought one and ended up buying another for spares due to the backorder situation. Some of the spares have been on back order for more than three months which is a bit worrying.

Its a great little car and on the kit tyres drives like a little touring car on carpet. Don't go lower than 17.5t though as I've read that the plastic gears won't handle it, although metal ones are available. I fitted a shorty lipo to mine to save space.

Good luck, and enjoy the car.
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Old 12-30-2015, 07:41 AM   #3
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Hey there 32819toon, how've you been? How's it going RotoTruck, nice thread.

So I got one of these too and started building it yesterday. I was pretty amazed at how much options this kit came with out of the box. But the quality of the fake CF and plastic injections were kind of.. LOL But what can we say at $75, right?

It's no CupRacer nor M-Four, nor Sabre Mini, nor any of the Roadrunners I had in the past, but it's got potential I think. Someone should really make a REAL CF lower and upper deck for this kit, not that FRP crap that you can actually twist with your bare hands.

I did note that you can get some optional bearings for the steering rack 4pcs (check the M-Rage manual), and probably a couple of aftermarket aluminum collars for your damper stays and ball joints.

If the car proves worthy to keep for me, I will get a nicer ESC and motor for it, but for now, I need to do the setup and figure out how to mount my Rover Mini body on it. I know Nanda makes the body mounts for the front to fit the Tamiya bodies but HobbyKing has been out of stock forever..

Since the lower deck has the 6 sub-c cut outs, I decided to run my old Nicds from pre-2000. I use to race with these batteries back then. I still got plently of them that hold decent charge. Might even put on my old CycloneTC and a 27Turn stock motor on it..

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Old 12-30-2015, 07:47 AM   #4
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One minor thing that I noted that was 'wrong' on the manual was the use of 3x10 screws for the steering upright to the c-hubs. Should really use a 3x8mm as 10mm will bite into the cvd (too long).
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Old 12-30-2015, 10:18 PM   #5
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I finished the M-Rage today.. well still needs minor tweaking but for now here it is...

I noticed that this chassis is more of a 208mm unless you place the rear arm spacer on the front of the rear upright..

Sizing... as you can see this chassis is also very wide..


Custom front mount I made out of a Tamiya damper stay and M03 upper arms and some hardware..



Fitment is tight, but perfect. No rubbing..


How I trimmed the front bumper..


I gave it my 105BK ESC for now..


Overall this car drives like a CupRacer, good and bad. The worse part is the M-Rage's steering rack. Even with my S6070 servo and Kimbrough servo saver, the steering does not center after turning left or right.

The steering rack has an option to use four 3x6x2.5mm bearings... I can't remember, but I think that is the same size as the rear axle bearings on my Mini-Z so will give it a try tomorrow along with a different ESC. Perhaps more amps to the servo might help.

Overall, my conclusion is that for $75 this car drives okay, but the non-centering steering is unacceptable. if you missed out on a CupRacer, I suppose you might be happy getting this kit.
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Last edited by sakadachi; 01-23-2016 at 03:33 PM. Reason: Replaced top view picture with final steering linkage.
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Old 12-31-2015, 03:58 AM   #6
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Hi Sakadachi, good looking car ! The bearings in the steering rack are a must, and also don't tighten the unit too much, allowing a bit of slop. This will give you some free movement which will help with travel and centering. I ran mine on carpet a couple of weeks ago and it handled really well. My son has used it outdoors and really enjoyed driving it.

Good luck with it.
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Old 12-31-2015, 03:59 AM   #7
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Also, love the new body mount. I'm going to give this a go, I hate the kit bodyshell. A Mini should always be a Mini !!
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Old 12-31-2015, 06:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32819toon View Post
Hi Sakadachi, good looking car ! The bearings in the steering rack are a must, and also don't tighten the unit too much, allowing a bit of slop. This will give you some free movement which will help with travel and centering. I ran mine on carpet a couple of weeks ago and it handled really well. My son has used it outdoors and really enjoyed driving it.

Good luck with it.
32819toon - Thanks for shedding some light on this centering issue, I will definitely try the bearings later this am. Thanks for the tips too. I lubed the white bushings and set it up pretty loosely, but I guess it's not enough.


Quote:
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Also, love the new body mount. I'm going to give this a go, I hate the kit bodyshell. A Mini should always be a Mini !!
Thanks! Nanda (pre BSR re-badge) use to sell its factory option front mounts, but HobbyKing has been out of stock forever so decided to just make one.. I too agree, Rover Mini's for 210mm all they way! hahaha

Per member MD on the mini cooper thread found a link for us:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ize_body_.html
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Old 12-31-2015, 03:57 PM   #9
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Okay so I installed the 3x6x2.5 bearings in the steering rack. I had to file the posts just a bit to fit the bearings.

Also replaced the steering link ball joints with Tamiya 19804206 and their 5mm adjuster ball joints. Works perfectly now.

Pretty much finished setting up the car, ran with my 2S with the mabuchi motor. It's plenty of fun for me. I'm happy with the purchase now. Beats the CupRacer hands down and rivals my M-Four.
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Old 12-31-2015, 04:16 PM   #10
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In the pic above it looks like your steering tie rods are not mounted in the same holes on the steering blocks. That could also cause some steering / centering issues.
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Old 12-31-2015, 04:17 PM   #11
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Anyone have a pic with a shorty pack installed. I just ordered this car and plan to run it brushed Mabuchi with shorty.
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Old 12-31-2015, 04:36 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evostyle View Post
In the pic above it looks like your steering tie rods are not mounted in the same holes on the steering blocks. That could also cause some steering / centering issues.
The steering issue was not from that. The ball joint was disconnected when I took that picture as I was trialing different settings.
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:27 PM   #13
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I updated the picture above so that there is no confusion with the steering linkage. This is probably its final form as I don't plan on getting any more parts for it as will make no sense. It's plenty fast with just a Mabuchi motor and 2S Lipo. I can run over 8min without the motor getting too hot. I had to add a fan on the 105BK though as it was super hot after a 10min run without it.

And after four fast test runs with 2S Lipo and a Mabuchi motor, the ball diffs already loosened. Damn, I hate ball diffs. The bolt is accessible from the axle hubs so not a huge deal, but just a pita to re-tighten.
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Old 01-01-2016, 04:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evostyle View Post
Anyone have a pic with a shorty pack installed. I just ordered this car and plan to run it brushed Mabuchi with shorty.
Here's mine using std battery mounts and shortened battery retaining bar :-
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Old 01-01-2016, 05:32 AM   #15
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Yeah I fit my shorty on it too just for kicks and that would be how I'd place it too. I would use tape on the front side or just make a foam block.

Thanks again 32819toon on the steering. At the end of the day it was a $90 kit just to get it to drive correctly.
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