toyranosaur

If you mean the big crown gears, there's some posts back a page or 2 about those- German-made, I believe. If you mean the driveshaft pinions, they're at Hobbyking under "BSR Racing M.RAGE 4WD M-Chassis - 17T Metal Differential Input Gears (2pcs)". Chris REC

Aitutaki

Hi, hm can you remember which rear damper stay you used? i just ordered the official m-rage tamiya body posts , but they will not be ready until next weeks race.
i was trying to fit another solution, but get nothing run so far
i do have the M-03 parts, my solutions are to high, so that the distance between body and car is to much

any help is appreciated
thanks and happy new year to all of you!
flo

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

That is the Tamiya M05 CF damper stay.

Aitutaki

Thanks.
I drove the M.Rage today. Used the fantastic Moster M Shell, but unfortunately,
the only crash i made ended up in a broken chassis

But until the crash, it was so nice driving that car.
Sweep 33 rear, 40 front tires on grippy ETS Carpet (Front tires needed sidewalls to be glued).
sway bars all around . Basic Springs all around. and black can motor . reduced pinion gear to 29, due to regulations (max 5,8 gearing - same as M05)

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to hear about your broken chassis!

Which part of the chassis broke?

Aitutaki

it broke on the battery side.
where the Screws can be fitted..
see the attached pic.

i am just wondering if i should rebuy the chassis only or rebuy the whole kit for the spares.. i think i should go for the whole kit...

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Ouch!! But that looks salvageable with some super glue at the break point and reinforcements using 3M VHB mounting tape Maybe you can get some CF sheets at your local hobby store or even get a slit of aluminum sheet and mount using VHB it to the entire battery side of the chassis. Unless you use sub-c's like me those cut-outs are useless.

I recommend the VHB for its super strong bond and its flexibility. These chassis aren't the most rigid so best to have some level of flexibility to prevent any future weak points.

Yes, I definitely get the whole kit. It will be much cheaper in the long run!

toyranosaur

Otay! I just received my metal diff outdrives from NitroRCX. I hoped they would work: But, not only do they seem to be exact swaps for the kit diff outdrives, but, amazingly, they came as COMPLETE DIFFS (Minus outdrive bearings,) not just the 2 pieces shown in the photo. Woot!

More amazing is that the stock plastic diffs are $20 each: Now, the stockers come with outdrive bearings, but the metal ones are- Ready? ONLY SIX BUCKS each.

So, for $24 I got four complete diffs that won't get destroyed by the CVD pins. Can that be beat? It's rare that a deal like this comes along, so just FYI Gents. Chris REC

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Keep us posted what other problems you encounter with your $6 diffs.. or you may not and that would be a great buy! I'm just a little skeptical I guess.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Looks like hobbyking just got a shipment of m.rage of parts in. Lots of good parts available including the spool and the unicorn mini body mount.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/bsr-raci...olid-axle.html
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/bsr-raci...size-body.html

toyranosaur

I shall indeed apprise you of the diff fitment. it'll be a few days as my Girl and I are building simultaneously, and she is into a little at a time.

And thanks for the update Rotor! Cheerio, Chris REC

toyranosaur

Otay! I got a bit ahead building mine to work out any probs before she gets to hers. The verdict is: The $6 metal diffs are.....PERFECT. I know, the cheap plastic ones are more expensive, which seems odd, but every once in a while the Universe throws you a bone I guess, and I said "Chomp"! Score some soon before they're gone. They are available at NitroRCX.com, just type in "Diff Joint cup(Metal) MAD-NH3119'.

After reading about steering woes here, I fixed mine to be perfect, at least as far as the non-electronical parts go. I made up some washers that are 3mm. inner & 4.5 mm. outer-These will NOT touch both inner and outer races simultaneously, isolating the inners: I then made some spacers 3mm. ID & .150" OD, .050" thick to go between the bearings. The pieces go on the post in this order- Washer, bearing, spacer, bearing, washer, nut. I can now lock 'em down tight so the inner races will NOT spin, and as the outers have nothing to touch now the steering rail MUST ride on the unencumbered outers, as God intended. Just glass smooth, and no possible way there is any drag whatsoever! I do have my own CNC machine shop, which helps admittedly...

So anyway, just some info that might help a few chaps: I knew to address these issues by reading up from you Gents, so Thanks for all your info also. Chris REC

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Keep us posted on the diffs. We want to know how long they last too.

longuylander

iTrader: (7)

You convinced me to order a couple of the diffs. How smoothly do they turn?

toyranosaur

The stock plastic diffs, as received, are pretty smooth, but came with bone-dry thrust bearings. The metal ones are maybe not quite as smooth, but I expect they'll wear in a bit. The thrust bearing washers on both have a combination of nicely-grooved and almost-flat, so if I were a serious-racer type, I'd see about subbing some thrust bearing assemblies from an AE diff or such-I think that's where the issue would be.

Either way, for me, I worry much more about longevity. I'm not a racer, and would prefer gear diffs actually. Set, forget! My driving skills are not such that a ball diff will make much difference either way.....Chris REC