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Old 11-16-2016, 08:48 AM   #91
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They're on sale again. I picked up a second kit for spares. Still waiting on the bearing; perhaps the second kit will get here first and I can scavenge the bearing from there.
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Old 11-20-2016, 08:22 AM   #92
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Got the car back together and the body painted and mounted. After a test drive in the street in front of my house, the car is still super loose. The front end has great response, but the rear end just slides around. I've got the dual rate turned down to 50% too. Granted, it's only like 40 degrees outside so the road is cold, but I was hoping for more rear grip.

I've got hard springs up front and soft in the rear. I've got the front ride height a little higher than the rear. I've got the rear shocks lying down further than the stock recommendation. Any other suggestions?
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Old 11-20-2016, 01:03 PM   #93
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If the back and comes out while on power than the rear diff may be too tight or the front diff way to lose the stock setup is actually quite good out of the box try driving on a High grip track
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Old 11-20-2016, 01:46 PM   #94
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which lipo batteries fit this kit, thanks
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Old 11-21-2016, 12:39 AM   #95
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Any shorty or normal size lipo would fit I use the hobbywing nanotech 4200
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Old 11-30-2016, 09:35 PM   #96
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I'm guessing this has been answered before, but l couldn't find it.
I know it LOOKS like carbon on the M Rage, but at that price surely it isn't?
Hobbyking list the main chassis spare part as Carbon Main Chassis but are they lying?
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:35 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
I use to have a HPI RS4 mini that I converted the front end with the rear end of the car and put a custom M01/M05 style steering so that the motor was at the front of the car. That actually drove well. Might want to check feasibility on the MRage.
If you have a pic, I'd love to see it.

I still want to make a front-engine 4/RWD MRage MX-5.

Yes, I know the TA05 M.Four exists, but it's not 225mm wheelbase... and expensive.
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Old 12-01-2016, 05:12 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefoxussr View Post
If you have a pic, I'd love to see it.

I still want to make a front-engine 4/RWD MRage MX-5.

Yes, I know the TA05 M.Four exists, but it's not 225mm wheelbase... and expensive.
I don't have a picture of it, sorry. It was over 17yrs ago when I put it together.

Btw, I have the TA05 M-Four and it is a 210mm wheel base. You can buy them from Tamiya USA for $250 which is a huge bargain!! It is my favorite Tamiya car by far. I run Tamiya's Rover Mini body on it. Check out my albums page.
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Old 12-02-2016, 07:22 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
I don't have a picture of it, sorry. It was over 17yrs ago when I put it together.

Btw, I have the TA05 M-Four and it is a 210mm wheel base. You can buy them from Tamiya USA for $250 which is a huge bargain!! It is my favorite Tamiya car by far. I run Tamiya's Rover Mini body on it. Check out my albums page.
Thanks for the tip! That is a great deal from TUSA considering their usual pricing

I wonder how hard it really would be to extend the wheelbase...

Looks like maybe just arm flip (and side-to-side swap) plus a spacer, plus put the dampers on the front of the tower, etc:
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Old 12-27-2016, 01:00 PM   #100
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So! I have 2 coming, and blah blah, Would like to know- Do metal diff outdrives exist for this car, or not? Getting pretty ticked looking online, all the BS around this car seems to offset the low price- For every bit of info I find, there seem to be 3 contradictions.....

These are supposed to get my Girl involved in RC, so the crappy parts must be dealt with before the cars are even built. If these are are a prob, she'll be out before you can blink.

If they do not exist, I'll be CNC-ing up some for our cars, and if it comes to that I'd be willing to do some extra for sale- I'd rather just buy some though! So, any info appreciated. Chris REC
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Old 12-29-2016, 10:46 AM   #101
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No metal outdrives but you can get a spool that is all metal including its proprietary short drive cups (that won't work on a ball diff of course), when they get back in stock. They call it a "solid axle" on their website.

Only plastic outdrive failure I've had is from over tightening the diff. That said, they do wear where the axle pins make contact, but I haven't had one become unusable because of that. They do sell spares too.

What contradictions need clarification? I've raced this car for a year now and its easy to drive and reliable.
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Old 12-29-2016, 12:10 PM   #102
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I oredered these metal outdrives - Item# MAD-NH3119 from Nitro RCX.
I'm a'hopin' they work as I'd like diffs F&R. (Since you did not reply sooner it will of course be YOUR fault if they no fitty. )

Since these are for my Girl & I as mentioned, I've scoured the Web & seen that the weak points are the outdrives wearing & the driveshaft bevel gears: Soo I got those comin' too. I have a full machine shop so's I can do things like trim down the small rod for the bevel gears, mebbe adjust the diff outdrives if need be, etc. Just trying to head off potential probs before they happen.

I'm making some of the slotted drivers that the driveshaft goes into also, then all-metal drivetrain, Ta-da! 'Cept the crown gears, those seem fine from what I've read.

The contradictions are, there seem to be 3 versions of this car, and some chaps say parts from this may fit that, then 2 pages later someone says "The fitment of the skeezix into the mungle-ball assembly from the original Offenza BT in 1/12 scale is easy if you shave a notch to accept the Fingomatic drive pin, unless you are using the 1/17th-scale shaft from a Traxxas Revo. Mine works a treat." Then another forum says different.....

I'm not Mr. Race Guy or knowledgeable about interchangeability like most of the pro's on here, so a lotta this I don't get. I will letcha all know if the outdrives I listed work or not- Most of you prolly already know, but....Thanks for your reply Mate, I hope you're wrong though! (Crosses fingers....)

And, does anyone have a recommended setup for carpet on these as a staring point? Quite a few very savvy chaps here! Chris REC
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Old 12-29-2016, 01:35 PM   #103
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You only need a metal bevel gear if you're running a 13.5 or faster motor I run a healthy 17.5 as well as 21.5 on high grip with sticky tires and the ring and pinions have not failed at all.

stock setup is pretty good I have increase the rear camber to 2 degrees try to get the car as low as possible like 4 to 5 Millmeters off the ground. Sweep make some really nice mini tires running one step softer tires on the rear than on the front is a good idea too.

good luck have fun I think youll really enjoy this car its a blast to drive
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Old 12-29-2016, 03:47 PM   #104
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I'll be running both cars identically. Total hop-up parts will be:

- Tamiya #50797 5 mm. short ball end cups (just for the steering,)
-2 Tamiya TEU-104BK ESC's,
-Flysky Fs-GT3B Tx & Rx,
-Tamiya Sport Tuned 540's,
-Corona DS-319HV Digital Metal Gear Servos, 4.2kg / 0.05s / 34g
-Avid steering rack bearings
-Metal driveshaft pinions
-And the metal outdrives (Hopefully)

Also making those driveshaft slotted pieces & some .005" thick spacers for the steering bearings.

I'm not a Noob even though the forum says 2 posts...? I have 150 or so vehicles over the last 25 years-ish, but I only drive 2- The rest are Shelf Queens. So, actually running a car IS sorta new for me!

Methinks this is a good starting point, or no? Any opinions or tips are always appreciated! Thanks for the setup tips too Mate, very cool. Chris REC
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:16 PM   #105
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I need metal diff gears, where do I find them???
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