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Old 10-28-2016, 06:06 PM   #76
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Yeah, just tighten the damper caps (lid) just to be sure it's not leaking from the top. It's a good damp rate they put in them.
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Old 10-30-2016, 04:05 AM   #77
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On an unrelated topic (I ordered some ball bearings for the steering and am waiting on them before any building), how exactly is this name said? Is it supposed to be the letter "M" followed by the word "Rage?" Or is it supposed to be pronounced like an abbreviation of the word "Mirage?" Or is it something more ridiculous?
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Old 10-30-2016, 04:07 AM   #78
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I call it the "M Rage."
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Old 11-06-2016, 04:02 AM   #79
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So I got the car together, and did a quick shakedown in the street without the body. Obviously it didn't handle well, between no aerodynamics and a cold street surface. But more concerning was a feeling of drag on the drivetrain. Without the motor connected, everything feels like it rolls freely, it just feels like there's a friction that slows everything down quickly. It's like there's a bad bearing in there somewhere. I tore it all down and it seemed fine. Has anybody else experienced this? Is it something to do with the scale? (This is my first m chassis.)
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Old 11-06-2016, 04:42 AM   #80
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No, it should feel smooth with no drag. M-chassis is basically a miniature TC.

You have a bind somewhere obviously and would need to check axle by axle. Maybe the wheel is bottoming out onto the knuckle?
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Old 11-06-2016, 12:16 PM   #81
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You were right about an axle binding. One of the wheels' hex adapters was pressed too tightly against the knuckle and causing drag. It's loosened up now, but I can't test the drivetrain all back together yet... I apparently had the grub screw in the top portion of the spur gear/center shaft mount too tight. It cracked the bearing that the spur gear shaft sits in the aluminum mount. I wasn't fortunate enough to get a spare in the box, and I don't have an that size. I'll have to order more before reassembling the car.

*sigh*
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:59 PM   #82
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That sucks. Hope you get the replacement parts soon.
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Old 11-07-2016, 08:25 PM   #83
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Local track is doing a Mini scale 2WD class so I'm converting my M.Rage from AWD to FWD. Removed the rear diff & crown gear, and the rear axles, voila! Any clue how to tune the suspension to work as FWD?
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Old 11-08-2016, 12:05 AM   #84
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All I can say is good luck. I've attempted to do just that with a couple of different 4WD Minis and have failed utterly to get them to work.
Having the motor up toward the back doesn't help much for a start.
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Old 11-08-2016, 02:47 AM   #85
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I use to have a HPI RS4 mini that I converted the front end with the rear end of the car and put a custom M01/M05 style steering so that the motor was at the front of the car. That actually drove well. Might want to check feasibility on the MRage.


Otherwise you're looking at something like my TOP Racing FWD SabreFD mini.
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Old 11-08-2016, 10:49 AM   #86
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I'll give it a shot at practice tonight.

I could just as easily convert it to RWD, and being able to remove the driveshaft would increase drivetrain efficiency. With the motor towards the back should help keep the drive tires planted, but RWD is more difficult to drive IMO.
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Old 11-11-2016, 10:48 PM   #87
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Got the FWD M.RAGE working surprisingly well. Can go full throttle thru the sweeper at the end of the straight, without lifting on entry either. Spent an evening tuning, and more tuning. Its definitely started off more squirrly but was able to calm it down.

I don't think I'll even try RWD.
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:04 AM   #88
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Did you turn the chassis around 180 to place weight in the front? Otherwise its not going to have the grip level of properly weight balanced FWD m-chassis..no?
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Old 11-13-2016, 10:49 PM   #89
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But then it would be rear-steer, and that would be silly.
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Old 11-14-2016, 03:40 AM   #90
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Fork lift racing.
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