performula

iTrader: (4)

Amain has the 4.0 fyi I know it was mentioned in the 3.0 thread.

The FastFred

Exactly as I understood... But they are saying something different. But I also think many of the comments are for carpet. Need to find out more!

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

I feel your confusion but as someone who has owned rc cars since the early eighties, all I can say is read, learn, and ask but nothing beats trying all these changes for yourself. RC cars have sooooo many adjustments and they all work in conjunction with all the other adjustments, plus track conditions, plus motor characteristics, plus ........

You get the point. I have several diffs pre made up and marked for these reasons, and I think the heavier oils will work better for me too. My car is a little weird at times with light fluid so I'm building my new Eryx 4.0 with 5k, and 7k. This is for Mod carpet.

Steve

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

It's really the opposite! Of course a lighter fluid does make the car a little bit easier to drive (up to a point) in some scenarios particularly in very low traction but we are talking 3k here as the lightest I'd go. The issue is that lower than 3k our diff has a tendency to diff-out causing strange on power characteristics. The new diff is only better more robust plastics over the 3.0 diff and I haven't found a huge difference in setup between the two. But as others have said the only way to really understand what is being said is to try it yourself.

Fast Fred this is not only related to carpet. This is for asphalt as well. Medium to high traction.

Andy63

In my case, using heavier diff oil is easier in modified (5-7kish) for me to handle. If the oil is to light it can very twitchy and react to every steering input you do. Hesvier oil is the opposite, making the car stable on power while steering and have less respond when steering. I am not so good at explaining. But dont get confused with real cars and r/c cars. They work somewhat different sometimes. And in this case, the geardiff needs that heavy oil in modified to become an easy drive.

BCDK

Both my sons are driving the 4.0 - one in modified and one in superstock (13,5 T blinky) - and they don't use the same diff-setup. In modified startingpoint is 5k and in superstock 3k.

It depends on the track - grip, size, layout - car setup - class - but also on the driving style.

Different thinkness can make the car struggle in both turn in or out.

Therefore - diff setup depends on so many things, that you can't just take a setup from another driver and say, that is the correct setup. You have to test by yourself, what you like for that day on that track with that grip.

I would say: thin oil let your car oversteer out of corners, and thick oil let your car oversteer in turn in.

My way to do it: low grip = thin oil. More grip = thicker oil.

But as written: it depends on so many things.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Very true, and words to live by. Great input.

Andy63

Posted my latest setup for the ERYX 4.0, it is very easy to drive!
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

You need to download the revised setup sheet so we can see where your upper camber link locations are.

Andy63

You actually can. But it isshortest possible both front and rear.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I pleaded with Ronald to get the setup sheets changed to show the 3 options settings, someone has to use them, LOL.

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

Andre,

Is it possible for you to also include a link that we can click on so that I can see a bigger setup sheet. It is hard for me to see some of the finer detail on your sheet. I do enjoy reading your blog posts, so keep on doing what your doing!

Thanks,
Steve

Holmenkollen

Thatīs some high roll centers. Shortest link and 3 mm inside camber link.

What I have tested so far on the 4.0 is that I tend to run a little higher front roll centers compared to the 3.0 so your findings seem to be in line with that.

I also tried the 2 mm carbon instead of the stock 2.25. itīs a little bit harder overall (not much), it freed up the car a bit in the corners. Itīs the 3.0 2 mm carbon chassis. The new one is a different shape.

Andy63

Thank you very much! I write everything on my phone or ipad and there seem to
be hard to get all the fancy parts in there. But why i post on the blog and link to it is becuse this forum dont allow me to upload from my phone. Just to ckear that up.
To be able to see my sheet you can try clicking on it or use CTRL+ + on your keyboard. Thanks again!

Actually, i tried your shock setup you sent me on FB, and it feels great. But i think i will try 450cst next time to maybe get better high speed steering and maybe reduce grip roll that occurs at this track. Other then that, i think there is quite smalm changes to make to get the car very dialed.
We have pretty much the same style of tracks here in Sweden, so every track needs minimal changes.

BCDK

Inside upper link: if you add shims here you lower the roll center. Shims on the upper inside link is about 1/4 or 1/3 of the low rc adjustment = shims under the blocks.

That is the way I do it, and the car also reacts so.

It is very good and detailed explained by Martin Crisp in his app "Workbench".