R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree2Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-25-2016, 04:04 PM   #91
Tech Master
 
performula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: CO
Posts: 1,728
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Amain has the 4.0 fyi I know it was mentioned in the 3.0 thread.
performula is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2016, 08:00 PM   #92
Tech Adept
 
The FastFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 198
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1spunspur View Post
I've been reading along with you all, and I am a little confused. Wouldn't a lighter fluid make your car more manageable, and heavier fluid make your rear end lock up sooner or easier, and make you fish-tail or spin-out easier?
Exactly as I understood... But they are saying something different. But I also think many of the comments are for carpet. Need to find out more!
The FastFred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2016, 08:14 PM   #93
Tech Elite
 
corallyman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Edmonds, Wash
Posts: 4,390
Trader Rating: 99 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1spunspur View Post
I've been reading along with you all, and I am a little confused. Wouldn't a lighter fluid make your car more manageable, and heavier fluid make your rear end lock up sooner or easier, and make you fish-tail or spin-out easier?
Quote:
Originally Posted by The FastFred View Post
Exactly as I understood... But they are saying something different. But I also think many of the comments are for carpet. Need to find out more!

I feel your confusion but as someone who has owned rc cars since the early eighties, all I can say is read, learn, and ask but nothing beats trying all these changes for yourself. RC cars have sooooo many adjustments and they all work in conjunction with all the other adjustments, plus track conditions, plus motor characteristics, plus ........

You get the point. I have several diffs pre made up and marked for these reasons, and I think the heavier oils will work better for me too. My car is a little weird at times with light fluid so I'm building my new Eryx 4.0 with 5k, and 7k. This is for Mod carpet.

Steve
__________________
Team ORCA / ORCA USA / Pro Spec
Serpent America / Team Serpent S411 ERYX / On Point Racing OP12C, S120 / Xceed Products
Hangar 30 / Seattle RC Racers
Fasttrax Racing Series / NORA On Road Series
corallyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2016, 09:21 PM   #94
Tech Elite
 
dan_vector's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,596
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1spunspur View Post
I've been reading along with you all, and I am a little confused. Wouldn't a lighter fluid make your car more manageable, and heavier fluid make your rear end lock up sooner or easier, and make you fish-tail or spin-out easier?
It's really the opposite! Of course a lighter fluid does make the car a little bit easier to drive (up to a point) in some scenarios particularly in very low traction but we are talking 3k here as the lightest I'd go. The issue is that lower than 3k our diff has a tendency to diff-out causing strange on power characteristics. The new diff is only better more robust plastics over the 3.0 diff and I haven't found a huge difference in setup between the two. But as others have said the only way to really understand what is being said is to try it yourself.

Fast Fred this is not only related to carpet. This is for asphalt as well. Medium to high traction.
__________________
Serpent Viper 977e EVO2, Serpent 977 EVO2 GP, Serpent Project 4x, Serpent 811T-TE Truggy, Serpent 811e 2.1, Serpent SRX2-MH, Serpent SRX-2 RM, Serpent SRX-4, Serpent F110-SF2, Serpent F180, Serpent 748 Natrix WC, Serpent Cobra GT 3.0, Serpent SRX8, Serpent S811 2.2, Baja 5B Flux, Atomic AMZ 1/27th, Schumacher GT12 SS.
Sanwa, Ielasi Tuned Novarossi Racing Engines, Tekin, Hobbywing, Muchmore.
dan_vector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2016, 02:42 AM   #95
Tech Regular
 
Andy63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 398
Default

In my case, using heavier diff oil is easier in modified (5-7kish) for me to handle. If the oil is to light it can very twitchy and react to every steering input you do. Hesvier oil is the opposite, making the car stable on power while steering and have less respond when steering. I am not so good at explaining. But dont get confused with real cars and r/c cars. They work somewhat different sometimes. And in this case, the geardiff needs that heavy oil in modified to become an easy drive.
__________________
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com|HOBBYWING |YOKOMO |HBracing |MIBOSPORT.COM |Reservdelsrc.com |Jockeli-Painting |
Andy63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2016, 04:24 AM   #96
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Denmark
Posts: 99
Default

Both my sons are driving the 4.0 - one in modified and one in superstock (13,5 T blinky) - and they don't use the same diff-setup. In modified startingpoint is 5k and in superstock 3k.

It depends on the track - grip, size, layout - car setup - class - but also on the driving style.

Different thinkness can make the car struggle in both turn in or out.

Therefore - diff setup depends on so many things, that you can't just take a setup from another driver and say, that is the correct setup. You have to test by yourself, what you like for that day on that track with that grip.

I would say: thin oil let your car oversteer out of corners, and thick oil let your car oversteer in turn in.

My way to do it: low grip = thin oil. More grip = thicker oil.

But as written: it depends on so many things.
__________________
Sponsor: Team Serpent, 2-Speed RC, ToniSport, Allans Koereskole
Modified: Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0, LRP Flow, LRP X20 4,5 T, Sanwa M11X
Superstock: Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0. LRP Flow, LRP X20 13,5 T, Hitec Lynx 4S
BCDK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2016, 09:41 AM   #97
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,389
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BCDK View Post
Both my sons are driving the 4.0 - one in modified and one in superstock (13,5 T blinky) - and they don't use the same diff-setup. In modified startingpoint is 5k and in superstock 3k.

It depends on the track - grip, size, layout - car setup - class - but also on the driving style.

Different thinkness can make the car struggle in both turn in or out.

Therefore - diff setup depends on so many things, that you can't just take a setup from another driver and say, that is the correct setup. You have to test by yourself, what you like for that day on that track with that grip.

I would say: thin oil let your car oversteer out of corners, and thick oil let your car oversteer in turn in.

My way to do it: low grip = thin oil. More grip = thicker oil.

But as written: it depends on so many things.
Very true, and words to live by. Great input.
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
EMR Factory LLC
AWESOME Graphics
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2016, 12:04 PM   #98
Tech Regular
 
Andy63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 398
Default

Posted my latest setup for the ERYX 4.0, it is very easy to drive!
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com
__________________
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com|HOBBYWING |YOKOMO |HBracing |MIBOSPORT.COM |Reservdelsrc.com |Jockeli-Painting |
Andy63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2016, 01:18 PM   #99
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,389
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy63 View Post
Posted my latest setup for the ERYX 4.0, it is very easy to drive!
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com
You need to download the revised setup sheet so we can see where your upper camber link locations are.
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
EMR Factory LLC
AWESOME Graphics
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2016, 02:41 PM   #100
Tech Regular
 
Andy63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 398
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
You need to download the revised setup sheet so we can see where your upper camber link locations are.
You actually can. But it isshortest possible both front and rear.
__________________
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com|HOBBYWING |YOKOMO |HBracing |MIBOSPORT.COM |Reservdelsrc.com |Jockeli-Painting |
Andy63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2016, 04:14 PM   #101
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,389
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy63 View Post
You actually can. But it isshortest possible both front and rear.
I pleaded with Ronald to get the setup sheets changed to show the 3 options settings, someone has to use them, LOL.
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
EMR Factory LLC
AWESOME Graphics
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2016, 05:16 PM   #102
Tech Elite
 
corallyman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Edmonds, Wash
Posts: 4,390
Trader Rating: 99 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy63 View Post
You actually can. But it isshortest possible both front and rear.
Andre,

Is it possible for you to also include a link that we can click on so that I can see a bigger setup sheet. It is hard for me to see some of the finer detail on your sheet. I do enjoy reading your blog posts, so keep on doing what your doing!

Thanks,
Steve
__________________
Team ORCA / ORCA USA / Pro Spec
Serpent America / Team Serpent S411 ERYX / On Point Racing OP12C, S120 / Xceed Products
Hangar 30 / Seattle RC Racers
Fasttrax Racing Series / NORA On Road Series
corallyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2016, 11:40 PM   #103
Tech Regular
 
Holmenkollen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sweden
Posts: 439
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy63 View Post
Posted my latest setup for the ERYX 4.0, it is very easy to drive!
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com
Thatīs some high roll centers. Shortest link and 3 mm inside camber link.

What I have tested so far on the 4.0 is that I tend to run a little higher front roll centers compared to the 3.0 so your findings seem to be in line with that.

I also tried the 2 mm carbon instead of the stock 2.25. itīs a little bit harder overall (not much), it freed up the car a bit in the corners. Itīs the 3.0 2 mm carbon chassis. The new one is a different shape.
__________________
Xray - Hobbywing - Graupner
Holmenkollen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2016, 02:27 AM   #104
Tech Regular
 
Andy63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 398
Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
Andre,

Is it possible for you to also include a link that we can click on so that I can see a bigger setup sheet. It is hard for me to see some of the finer detail on your sheet. I do enjoy reading your blog posts, so keep on doing what your doing!

Thanks,
Steve
Thank you very much! I write everything on my phone or ipad and there seem to
be hard to get all the fancy parts in there. But why i post on the blog and link to it is becuse this forum dont allow me to upload from my phone. Just to ckear that up.
To be able to see my sheet you can try clicking on it or use CTRL+ + on your keyboard. Thanks again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
Thatīs some high roll centers. Shortest link and 3 mm inside camber link.

What I have tested so far on the 4.0 is that I tend to run a little higher front roll centers compared to the 3.0 so your findings seem to be in line with that.

I also tried the 2 mm carbon instead of the stock 2.25. itīs a little bit harder overall (not much), it freed up the car a bit in the corners. Itīs the 3.0 2 mm carbon chassis. The new one is a different shape.
Actually, i tried your shock setup you sent me on FB, and it feels great. But i think i will try 450cst next time to maybe get better high speed steering and maybe reduce grip roll that occurs at this track. Other then that, i think there is quite smalm changes to make to get the car very dialed.
We have pretty much the same style of tracks here in Sweden, so every track needs minimal changes.
__________________
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com|HOBBYWING |YOKOMO |HBracing |MIBOSPORT.COM |Reservdelsrc.com |Jockeli-Painting |
Andy63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2016, 04:28 AM   #105
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Denmark
Posts: 99
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
Thatīs some high roll centers. Shortest link and 3 mm inside camber link.

What I have tested so far on the 4.0 is that I tend to run a little higher front roll centers compared to the 3.0 so your findings seem to be in line with that.

I also tried the 2 mm carbon instead of the stock 2.25. itīs a little bit harder overall (not much), it freed up the car a bit in the corners. Itīs the 3.0 2 mm carbon chassis. The new one is a different shape.
Inside upper link: if you add shims here you lower the roll center. Shims on the upper inside link is about 1/4 or 1/3 of the low rc adjustment = shims under the blocks.

That is the way I do it, and the car also reacts so.

It is very good and detailed explained by Martin Crisp in his app "Workbench".
__________________
Sponsor: Team Serpent, 2-Speed RC, ToniSport, Allans Koereskole
Modified: Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0, LRP Flow, LRP X20 4,5 T, Sanwa M11X
Superstock: Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0. LRP Flow, LRP X20 13,5 T, Hitec Lynx 4S
BCDK is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:01 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net