R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree2Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-19-2016, 03:36 PM   #61
Tech Adept
 
Ryan C.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: CA
Posts: 133
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Perfect thanks!!
__________________
RcTarget ~ Capricorn ~ NovaRossi
Ryan C. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 03:47 PM   #62
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,415
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
The team have tried a wide front end on high grip. 3.5-3.5 blocks with - 0.75 hexes = 189 mm. You have to use a 3.5 block upside down rear front. I personally didn't like it though.
So like the pre two piece suspension pieces, the flipped r/f bridge for the belt clearance.

Is this with a aluminum chassis car or a carbon plate car? Without the -.75 hexes you must be over 190mm, thats pretty wide.
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
EMR Factory LLC
AWESOME Graphics
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2016, 01:08 PM   #63
Tech Elite
 
corallyman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Edmonds, Wash
Posts: 4,556
Trader Rating: 99 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan C. View Post
Anyone know the part number for the -.75 wheel hex?

I would use blue loctite - lot of vibration in mod..


Almost done with the build - great job Serpent!
I'm currently building my 4.0 now and the build has been very good so far but because you were asking about the -.75mm hex hubs, I installed a pair of them on the rear just to see if they fit properly. Good to go!

Other's had posted they will work but I just had to see for myself

Steve
__________________
Team ORCA / ORCA USA / Pro Spec
Serpent America / Team Serpent S411 ERYX / On Point Racing OP12C, S120 / Xceed Products
Hangar 30 / Seattle RC Racers
Fasttrax Racing Series / NORA On Road Series
corallyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2016, 10:04 PM   #64
Tech Adept
 
Ryan C.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: CA
Posts: 133
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Nice!
__________________
RcTarget ~ Capricorn ~ NovaRossi
Ryan C. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2016, 01:49 AM   #65
Tech Regular
 
Holmenkollen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sweden
Posts: 443
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
So like the pre two piece suspension pieces, the flipped r/f bridge for the belt clearance.

Is this with a aluminum chassis car or a carbon plate car? Without the -.75 hexes you must be over 190mm, thats pretty wide.
Yes, around 189 mm with -0,75 hexes in front. The difference on track between carbon 2.25 and alu isnīt that big. I will try the carbon 2 mm on carpet. I think the stock 2.25 mm makes the car too flexy on carpet.
__________________
Xray - Hobbywing - Graupner
Holmenkollen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2016, 03:50 PM   #66
Tech Regular
 
Andy63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 398
Default

Posted Viktor Wilck's setup for the ERYX 4.0 on www.andrefossto.wordpress.com
__________________
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com|HOBBYWING |YOKOMO |HBracing |MIBOSPORT.COM |Reservdelsrc.com |Jockeli-Painting |
Andy63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2016, 01:29 PM   #67
Tech Fanatic
 
Julius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Amsterdam Netherlands
Posts: 967
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I have to agree on this as well.

I have found some of things mentioned about the car but not really explained;

- The shocks are vastly improved over the previous versions, better plastics, better shock shaft support, better o-ring, better pistons. The only bad thing about the shocks is still the adjuster when assembeled with the o-ring has enough drag that it will turn your shock if your not watching. I just don;t use them and haven't had a issue with them self adjusting during a run. Paul was thinking that we could possibly sand the caps down slightly to squish the bladder just enough to prevent this, and it would take much thats for sure.
.
There are 2 other options:
- glue the nylon top part to the shock cap.
- but a better idea is to cut the o ring in the adjuster and remove a small part. About 3 mm already makes the drag a lot less.

You only need a very small amount of drag. Probably without o ring works in electric as the spring will most likely always be in contact with the adjuster, but in nitro, the harder springs require drag in the adjuster.
__________________
Team Serpent, Xceed, Sanwa, LRP
Julius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2016, 10:14 PM   #68
Les
Tech Addict
 
Les's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 629
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Handling

I am looking to purchase a kit not sure on brand, can anyone post some information as to how the new 4 performs compared to the 3 ?
__________________
Serpent S411 4.0 13.5T D4
Kyosho V-ONE S3, RB Rota-Start
Sanwa MT4S
Les is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2016, 12:09 AM   #69
Tech Master
 
performula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: CO
Posts: 1,729
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Les View Post
I am looking to purchase a kit not sure on brand, can anyone post some information as to how the new 4 performs compared to the 3 ?
If you are on carpet the 3.0 is supposedly the way to go.
performula is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2016, 02:41 AM   #70
Tech Regular
 
Andy63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 398
Default

A safe bet is 3.0 on carpet. If asphalt i think 4.0 is a very good choice. And i think the 4.0 are good enough for carpet anyways. But it is still too new to say if it can work well on carpet yet. I myself use 4.0 with 2.25mm carbon chassies, i feel like it works good. But the pros say it needs tweaking first.
I will try new things tomorrow and hopefully get the car dialed for carpet.
__________________
www.andrefossto.wordpress.com|HOBBYWING |YOKOMO |HBracing |MIBOSPORT.COM |Reservdelsrc.com |Jockeli-Painting |
Andy63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2016, 05:00 AM   #71
Tech Elite
 
dan_vector's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,895
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

The 3.0 and 4.0 are so similar that both work just fine on carpet. My 3.0 on carpet with Alu chassis is just as good as my 4.0 with Alu chassis or 2.25 carbon on carpet. The 4.0 is a better car overall particularly the motormount which doesn't tweek easily with board contact like the 3.0 motor mount does. If you are buying a new car for sure go with the 4.0 kit (not a 3.0). Just decide what you'll be racing on more asphalt or carpet. Alu version for carpet and carbon for asphalt. It's really that simple. The 4.0 does work very well on carpet with the carbon chassis too.
__________________
Serpent Viper 977e EVO2, Serpent Viper 988 GP, Serpent Project 4x, Serpent 811T-TE Truggy, Serpent 811e 2.1, Serpent SRX2-MH, Serpent SRX-2 RM, Serpent SRX-4, Serpent F110-SF2, Serpent F180, Serpent 748 Natrix WC, Serpent Cobra GT 3.1, Serpent SRX8, Serpent S811 2.2, Baja 5B Flux, Atomic AMZ 1/27th, Schumacher GT12 SS.
Sanwa, Ielasi Tuned Novarossi Racing Engines, Tekin, Hobbywing, Muchmore.
dan_vector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2016, 08:47 AM   #72
Les
Tech Addict
 
Les's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 629
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
The 3.0 and 4.0 are so similar that both work just fine on carpet. My 3.0 on carpet with Alu chassis is just as good as my 4.0 with Alu chassis or 2.25 carbon on carpet. The 4.0 is a better car overall particularly the motormount which doesn't tweek easily with board contact like the 3.0 motor mount does. If you are buying a new car for sure go with the 4.0 kit (not a 3.0). Just decide what you'll be racing on more asphalt or carpet. Alu version for carpet and carbon for asphalt. It's really that simple. The 4.0 does work very well on carpet with the carbon chassis too.
Thanks Andy & Dan, racing stock electric only on Asphalt !!!!!!
__________________
Serpent S411 4.0 13.5T D4
Kyosho V-ONE S3, RB Rota-Start
Sanwa MT4S
Les is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2016, 11:49 AM   #73
Tech Elite
 
dan_vector's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,895
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Les View Post
Thanks Andy & Dan, racing stock electric only on Asphalt !!!!!!
So to me the answer is easy. 4.0 carbon! I hope you come and join us it really is a fantastic car.
__________________
Serpent Viper 977e EVO2, Serpent Viper 988 GP, Serpent Project 4x, Serpent 811T-TE Truggy, Serpent 811e 2.1, Serpent SRX2-MH, Serpent SRX-2 RM, Serpent SRX-4, Serpent F110-SF2, Serpent F180, Serpent 748 Natrix WC, Serpent Cobra GT 3.1, Serpent SRX8, Serpent S811 2.2, Baja 5B Flux, Atomic AMZ 1/27th, Schumacher GT12 SS.
Sanwa, Ielasi Tuned Novarossi Racing Engines, Tekin, Hobbywing, Muchmore.
dan_vector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2016, 05:45 AM   #74
Tech Adept
 
The FastFred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 198
Default

So your all finding the 4.0 a superior car. Easier to tune. Easier to drive?
Does it have a broader window of set-up...
Is the rear end more stable? Or able to be dialed in more readily.
The FastFred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2016, 05:56 AM   #75
Tech Elite
 
dan_vector's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,895
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by The FastFred View Post
So your all finding the 4.0 a superior car. Easier to tune. Easier to drive?
Does it have a broader window of set-up...
Is the rear end more stable? Or able to be dialed in more readily.
The geometry between the cars is the same and so the results on the track are similar. My 4.0 does feel a better car to drive and I have (generally) a little more rear traction meaning I feel like I can drive the 4.0 harder than I could my 3.0.

The main benefit I've found is the flex characteristics of the car is much improved and more uniform. The new motor mount (shocks aside) is the best chassis improvement which prevents the chassis tweaking on minor board hits. The 3.0 motormount used to tweak every time you hit the car which was a PITA! The 4.0 is a definitely improvement over the 3.0 but it doesn't drive massively different nor does it setup much different than before.
__________________
Serpent Viper 977e EVO2, Serpent Viper 988 GP, Serpent Project 4x, Serpent 811T-TE Truggy, Serpent 811e 2.1, Serpent SRX2-MH, Serpent SRX-2 RM, Serpent SRX-4, Serpent F110-SF2, Serpent F180, Serpent 748 Natrix WC, Serpent Cobra GT 3.1, Serpent SRX8, Serpent S811 2.2, Baja 5B Flux, Atomic AMZ 1/27th, Schumacher GT12 SS.
Sanwa, Ielasi Tuned Novarossi Racing Engines, Tekin, Hobbywing, Muchmore.
dan_vector is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:26 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net