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Old 02-08-2016, 06:58 PM   #136
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How durable are the 3.0 and 4.0 cars? Thanks so much.
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:44 PM   #137
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How durable are the 3.0 and 4.0 cars? Thanks so much.
In short. VERY! As long as you are not using the Xtra-Hard arms it's very tough in fact I believe it is the strongest modern TC on the market. I've seen some pretty narly crashes and I've hit the wall pretty hard myself and haven't broken anything.
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Old 02-09-2016, 12:36 AM   #138
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In short. VERY! As long as you are not using the Xtra-Hard arms it's very tough in fact I believe it is the strongest modern TC on the market. I've seen some pretty narly crashes and I've hit the wall pretty hard myself and haven't broken anything.
Thats why you go Serpent!
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:45 AM   #139
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How durable are the 3.0 and 4.0 cars? Thanks so much.
4.0 is the most durable car i have ever driven! I would say the XH arms are very durable aswell!
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Old 02-10-2016, 03:59 AM   #140
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4.0 is the most durable car i have ever driven! I would say the XH arms are very durable aswell!
It was very cold here in Fla. last weekend. The car was perfect and I clipped the board at the end of the straight. Now this is a long straight about 200 feet long. Top end is quick.

The edge of the rubber grabbed the board and just ripped the entire wheel off leaving the nut on the axel. Just reset the top plate taking any tweak out added new wheel and back on the track.

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Old 02-10-2016, 04:11 AM   #141
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It was very cold here in Fla. last weekend. The car was perfect and I clipped the board at the end of the straight. Now this is a long straight about 200 feet long. Top end is quick.

The edge of the rubber grabbed the board and just ripped the entire wheel off leaving the nut on the axel. Just reset the top plate taking any tweak out added new wheel and back on the track.

That's why we choose Serpent!
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Old 02-10-2016, 04:59 AM   #142
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That's why we choose Serpent!
Not just the reason, why we choose the Serpent.

... and also a Serpent S411 4.0 can brake.

We were at a race, where we had a chrash. Hit the curb on the inside into the straight - in modified. Result: hit the wall sideways / rear. Result: a broken wishbone (just the second broken wishbone for 4 years now - is acceptable) - a broken top deck (not complete broken - just in some few layers in the corner, where some material are cut off for the battery connector) - and a bended alu chassis.

After replaced the wishbone and loosen the screws in the top deck - but not replaced either the top deck nor the chassis - the car could drive again, and it was still fast. The car wasn't precise enough in the corners, but it was for sure driveable. Finished the race as 4th - lap times were almost as good as the top guys, but lost some times the car in a few corners. Not stable enough.

Now the car was rebuild with a new top deck (old style - without the cut off for the battery connector) and a new alu chassis. Car is like new.

The bended chassis is bended in two directions - in both the longitudinal direction and the lateral direction. Laying on the work table it is almost 5 mm bended.
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Old 02-14-2016, 08:15 PM   #143
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Finally got a chance to get some quality t&t time with the 4.0. Some of the things that I tried and discovered about the car...... In no particular order;

- I found that the shocks feel better without the 1mm hole drilled into the top cap, able to get pretty much zero rebound, so no need for the holes.

- If you run a long rear wheelbase,and/or use the lowest upper shock hole in the shock tower, you will have to use at least a 1.5mm spacer on the lower arm or shock spring retainer will bind with the arm and it also puts some crazy angle on the shock rod.

- If your on carpet, the front of this car seems/feels like it wants to screw itself into the carpet, not good for traction rolls and other inherent high traction issues. I figured I would try the 3.5/3.5 front suspension bridge setting. This is a must do setting and really settles the car down and is much easier to drive. Andy63 was correct on using this.

- When I went to the wide setting this really put the drive axles on the tip of the out drives, and has me a little concerned that it could be easy to split a spool outdrive. There was also a strange white powder that kept showing up on the outdrives and I'm not sure where its coming from. I can tell you from looking at some of the other brands of cars out there, that Yokomo has these white, almost look like nylon, pin cushions that should fit quite nicely on the Serpent DCJ and rear axles. These look like the are a harder material and should last longer than ours.

- I went to Xray 2.6/2.4 springs, the stock front sway bar, but I went to a 1.6 rear bar, again the rear bar seems to settle the car better. 400/350 oil and I have now gone up to 5k rear diff fluid. Stock top deck. The car shows no ill handling issues and I think even thicker diff fluid is now possible. (Carpet, sweep QTS28 tires)

- More to follow
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Old 02-15-2016, 12:04 AM   #144
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I have been driving a Eryx 2.0 (indoors on medium/high traction carpet) for a couple of years but now I,m thinking about moving on and the 4.0 seems like an interesting choice. I have often found the 2.0 being rather fast but at the same time a little hard to drive (aggresive and nervous). Current setup enclosed.

How does the 4.0 handle on carpet compared to 2.0?

What is the big difference between these two cars on carpet?

Which chassis do you recommend?
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Old 02-15-2016, 12:07 AM   #145
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Here it is!
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Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0-setup.jpg  
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:05 AM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Finally got a chance to get some quality t&t time with the 4.0. Some of the things that I tried and discovered about the car...... In no particular order;

- I found that the shocks feel better without the 1mm hole drilled into the top cap, able to get pretty much zero rebound, so no need for the holes.

- If you run a long rear wheelbase,and/or use the lowest upper shock hole in the shock tower, you will have to use at least a 1.5mm spacer on the lower arm or shock spring retainer will bind with the arm and it also puts some crazy angle on the shock rod.

- If your on carpet, the front of this car seems/feels like it wants to screw itself into the carpet, not good for traction rolls and other inherent high traction issues. I figured I would try the 3.5/3.5 front suspension bridge setting. This is a must do setting and really settles the car down and is much easier to drive. Andy63 was correct on using this.

- When I went to the wide setting this really put the drive axles on the tip of the out drives, and has me a little concerned that it could be easy to split a spool outdrive. There was also a strange white powder that kept showing up on the outdrives and I'm not sure where its coming from. I can tell you from looking at some of the other brands of cars out there, that Yokomo has these white, almost look like nylon, pin cushions that should fit quite nicely on the Serpent DCJ and rear axles. These look like the are a harder material and should last longer than ours.

- I went to Xray 2.6/2.4 springs, the stock front sway bar, but I went to a 1.6 rear bar, again the rear bar seems to settle the car better. 400/350 oil and I have now gone up to 5k rear diff fluid. Stock top deck. The car shows no ill handling issues and I think even thicker diff fluid is now possible. (Carpet, sweep QTS28 tires)

- More to follow
That is pretty much what i came up with, the 3,5 brackets in front upgrade is a must for better car on carpet. Also what i learned this weekend is that it is very good to use 550 oil rear and 500 front and 1,4 ARB around and that seems to settle the car also. You can also try shim front part of top deck to get rid of the flex from the front. I tried another top deck this weekend and it didnt work well. Standard top deck is the best on small tracks atleast.
I agree on you dont need the drilled holes. The carseems to get more air in after 1 run.

I dont seem to be able to get zero rebound with stock shocks. What lenght on the shock shaft are you using?
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:11 AM   #147
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Originally Posted by Andy63 View Post
That is pretty much what i came up with, the 3,5 brackets in front upgrade is a must for better car on carpet. Also what i learned this weekend is that it is very good to use 550 oil rear and 500 front and 1,4 ARB around and that seems to settle the car also. You can also try shim front part of top deck to get rid of the flex from the front. I tried another top deck this weekend and it didnt work well. Standard top deck is the best on small tracks atleast.
I agree on you dont need the drilled holes. The carseems to get more air in after 1 run.

I dont seem to be able to get zero rebound with stock shocks. What lenght on the shock shaft are you using?
I get zero rebound on the stock shock setup (no hole in cap) shaft length with ball end at 11.5mm as per the manual. All I do is use a 3mm caster clip on the shock shaft and when bleeding the shock push the shaft in and hold it against the clip/bottom of shock while tightening the cap very slowly. This gives zero rebound repetitively. If I push the shaft all the way in when bleeding I end up with a negative pressure in the shock which sucks the shaft back in when fully extended.

On the old SS shocks from the 3.0 I used the same technique as above but needed a 4mm caster clip to get the same results. Hope that helps?
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:50 AM   #148
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Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
I get zero rebound on the stock shock setup (no hole in cap) shaft length with ball end at 11.5mm as per the manual. All I do is use a 3mm caster clip on the shock shaft and when bleeding the shock push the shaft in and hold it against the clip/bottom of shock while tightening the cap very slowly. This gives zero rebound repetitively. If I push the shaft all the way in when bleeding I end up with a negative pressure in the shock which sucks the shaft back in when fully extended.

On the old SS shocks from the 3.0 I used the same technique as above but needed a 4mm caster clip to get the same results. Hope that helps?
I do it like this, fill shock all the way up, let it sit to get rid of air after i pushed shaft up and down. Then i push the shaft all the way up and then i put on bladder and then slowly put on cap while i hold shaft all the way in. Isnt this the right way?
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Old 02-15-2016, 08:59 PM   #149
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Originally Posted by djss View Post
I have been driving a Eryx 2.0 (indoors on medium/high traction carpet) for a couple of years but now I,m thinking about moving on and the 4.0 seems like an interesting choice. I have often found the 2.0 being rather fast but at the same time a little hard to drive (aggresive and nervous). Current setup enclosed.

How does the 4.0 handle on carpet compared to 2.0?

What is the big difference between these two cars on carpet?

Which chassis do you recommend?
Quite a different car from the 2.0 to the 4.0, they basically look the same and the running components are very similar but the chassis changes have really changed the flex characteristics of the car, and I'd say for the better. If you where to try the last couple posted setups for the 4.0 I think you'll find a very easy car to drive fast on carpet.

Aluminum chassis would be my pick for carpet.
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Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 02-15-2016 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 02-15-2016, 09:11 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy63 View Post
That is pretty much what i came up with, the 3,5 brackets in front upgrade is a must for better car on carpet. Also what i learned this weekend is that it is very good to use 550 oil rear and 500 front and 1,4 ARB around and that seems to settle the car also. You can also try shim front part of top deck to get rid of the flex from the front. I tried another top deck this weekend and it didnt work well. Standard top deck is the best on small tracks atleast.
I agree on you dont need the drilled holes. The carseems to get more air in after 1 run.

I dont seem to be able to get zero rebound with stock shocks. What lenght on the shock shaft are you using?
I think the shock oil and rollbar preference are based on personal preference and track conditions so its tough to say one way or the other. I agree with the top deck pick as I think they made this chassis flexible differently than the 3.0 chassis, a thicker of full top deck seems to work better with the previous chassis or the Avid chassis.

I run the shock shaft lengths the specified 11.5mm. When I build my shocks I do the normal fill and then put the bladder on the shock, I then use a big ball ended wrench (Xray 4mm wrench) and push the bladder down to displace the extra shock oil, now I hold the wrench on the bladder and bring the piston up till it touches the top of the bladder held by the ball ended wrench. This lets the last of the excessive oil push past the bladder. Now I leave the piston at the top and I put the top shock plastic in place and then screw the cap on. This has produced zero rebound for me and no negative rebound either, just a nice smooth shock. If I had to guess when the piston is pushed to the top of where the bladder sits and is hitting the bladder and wrench, the gap is probably about 3mm as well.
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