glennhl

iTrader: (16)

I would run the short shocks.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

Ob the gt setup wat shocks did u have long or short

beyondthepack

iTrader: (5)

I was wondering with the initial runs under your belt, how has the Yokomo compared to the Associated 7.1 Short shock set. Or have you run the cars since the first test.

nubs

iTrader: (2)

Maybe. I would need to see you race but that is just one of the many things that can affect corner speed.

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

I'd say the shocks were exactly the same. The TC7 would not turn in and corner as quickly as my TC7.1. Even though the TC7.1 was running a 21.5, I was always almost as quick as my TC7 with the 17.5. Now, with the TC7.1 bearing caps, TC7.1 short shock towers, and the Yokomo short shocks, the car is just as good as my TC7.1. They both corner exactly the same and now my 17.5 car is a good lap faster than the 21.5 car as it should be.

RobS

I run on a small tight indoor medium grip (grey) carpet track and actually feel more comfortable with the 7 with long shocks over the 7.1 with short ones, but its not a night and day difference either. But I am almost tempted to put long shocks on my 7.1. Either way I'm loving both cars!

AMZ

iTrader: (6)

Thanks.

One more quick question;

Would the fact that I am running a gear diff, front and rear, change your opinion?

eazy70

iTrader: (5)

I have a 7.1 and thinking of trying out usgt, mainly because I am having a hard time getting a hold of the setup with a 17.5, and slowing it down would get me some time in getting a feel for the chassis.
What changes should I make?
Would I need a front gear diff? If so does anyone have the part number?

Rick Hohwart

No. But I would exchange the diff for a spool.

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

I ran both 17.5 and USGT and I know exactly what you mean. Took me quite a while to learn how to drive the 17.5 car, the USGT was slower and easier to not overdrive. I ran the exact same setup on both cars.

eazy70

iTrader: (5)

Ok great thanks

beyondthepack

iTrader: (5)

That's good to hear. Big surprise they pushed them back again, now into March, and in all likelihood, maybe again.

I will give the Yokomo's a try. Appreciate your feedback.

Cheers

Steve Weiss

Hey Everyone,

I just wanted to pass along a little trick for when using the new PSD sleeves and pistons!

I've found that sometimes it can be tricky to bleed all the air out of the shocks before closing them all up... there are a couple different methods that I've seen to help with this... but I figured I'd share my take on it:

Due to the piston not having any holes in it, and the close fit between the edge of the sleeve and the piston, I've found that air tends to have a hard time getting out from underneath the piston, even if you do use an air remover/shock pump.

To help any air that's trapped underneath the piston, what I do is turn the shock body (and thereby the sleeve inside) so that one of the openings in the sleeve opposite me.

I then push the piston up to the top of the shock body.

Next, I will tilt the shock towards me, tilting the opposite side of the shock towards the top. This effectively makes the underside of the piston into a ramp that will allow the air to move upwards. Also, because the slot in the sleeve should now be oriented higher up, this should give that air traveling up the underside of the piston an escape route to the oil above the piston.

While holding the shock body in this orientation, I SLOWLY pull down the piston AND turn the shaft and piston, potentially allowing any trapped air bubbles to more easily be knocked free and allowed up towards the slot in the sleeve and out above the piston.

I repeat this process a few times until I'm satisfied that the air has been evacuated from underneath the piston.

NOTE: Another variation that I've seen when trying to build up air free PSD shocks is to actually remove the sleeve, fill the shock, and do your "normal" air removal procedure, then slide the sleeve back into the body. This is pretty effective as well, but I don't tend to like it for a number of reasons: 1.) Oily sleeve gets shock oil everywhere 2.) Slight chance of introducing fresh air bubbles back into the shock if they cling to the material of the sleeve while it's being 3.) The material for the sleeve is pretty thin and fragile, if you're not careful there's a chance you could ham fist it and slightly bend the sleeve while removing it or re-inserting it.

J Lee

Hello TC fans

I moved from 6.2 to 7.1 last week, it solved all my problem I had with 6.2. shock mounting, castor etc.

Super happy with this car. runs smooth, best TC shocks I ever felt. stay unbroken, after many bad crashes, the chassis also stay flat after all that banging. again super happy! Thank you very much to Rick, Bob and the entire Team AE.

I read through most of the tips and tricks but I don't think no one shared or mentioned the following mods I did.


1: Dremel front belt slot to clear any unwanted drag.




2: Quick shock change set up, put a flat head screw in it, bolted down with thin nut, put a lock nut to lock it. this way, you can save lots of valuable pit time during practices, also most of the parts stay intact during the changes.
I may change the flat head screws with long set screws to lose some high gravity weights. if I can find 4 that is.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

Nice choice lee the weekend cant come fast enough your not doing nats this weekend