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Old 05-07-2016, 08:53 AM   #286
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Reaming of arms depends on where the design if for the Arm to rotate on the pin (Xray) or for the arm to be firm on the pin and rotate in the holder (TRF/Yokomo)
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Old 05-07-2016, 09:08 AM   #287
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Both track width and wheel base is adjustable but they are approximately.

Track width 187mm
Wheel Base 257mm
Thank you, sir.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:12 AM   #288
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The top deck did not meet the bulk heads flush that sir I'm not making up

Reaming out arms is a regular occurrence in xrays and other kits? I haven't built any current T4s but I have built my fair share of offroad Xrays and never had to ream anything. l haven't EVER reamed out a suspension component on any kit that I've ever owned as they were all free moving out of the box. And IMHO you can never ream it out perfectly which is a sure fire way to get slop before you even have the kit togeher. Here, I'll provide you with an example of a properly built arm suspension system below (Mi6)....
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Originally Posted by cplus View Post
Reaming of arms depends on where the design if for the Arm to rotate on the pin (Xray) or for the arm to be firm on the pin and rotate in the holder (TRF/Yokomo)
I had a tweek issue with my D08 as well and no matter what I did I could not get the tweak out. For the heck of it I flipped the top deck over and all the tweak was gone, not sure how or why, but that was the only build problem I had with the car.

Your picture pretty much negates your argument on reaming the arms of the car. You wouldn't ream the MI6 arms since your locking the pins in place with the grub screws. So why would you ream the arms of the D08? For that matter any of the cars that use a suspension bridge that supports the pin with a floating pillow bushing shouldn't need the arms reamed. (Tamiya,Serpent,Yokomo,VBC) The real difference is, with the MI6, that because they are using ball bearings, as soon as you start to increase arm toe you put extra drag/bind on those bearings opposed to the floating bushing that floats in the suspension holder and eliminates the drag or bind. I don't see the MI6 bearings floatng in their holders.

CPlus is correct.
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Old 05-11-2016, 07:56 AM   #289
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Actually I do have a problem with a hole that is useless because based on MY base bench set up that I have used with my other cars on my track that hole would've been ideal so yes, if it's there Id like to use it, other wise it's ridiculous.

The top deck did not meet the bulk heads flush that sir I'm not making up, the shocks, come on, you build 'em up, and I built them repeatedly even using Pickerings method from YouTube, and all I got was a squeaky mouse sound in my shocks. No Bueno.

The spur assembly was the part of the build I spent most time on. I am a very detail oriented person in all things, and this was the biggest let down. I felt there was too much side to side play, and I also felt like the shaft that held it all together was smaller in diameter than the bearings internal diameter. Which makes for one sloppy spur assembly. It firmed up with belts and all installed but in my experience this is a Murphys Law thing. The PetitRC build of the D08 also suggests shimming the assembly to remove some play. I did so but I felt that all that did was prevent the spur from spinning as free as it did prior to shimming. All this will eventually do is build heat and lead to bearing failure, or a stripped gear. Maybe no one has experienced a failure, maybe they have, but I will not own a car where this is even a possibility.

Reaming out arms is a regular occurrence in xrays and other kits? I haven't built any current T4s but I have built my fair share of offroad Xrays and never had to ream anything. l haven't EVER reamed out a suspension component on any kit that I've ever owned as they were all free moving out of the box. And IMHO you can never ream it out perfectly which is a sure fire way to get slop before you even have the kit togeher. Here, I'll provide you with an example of a properly built arm suspension system below (Mi6)....

And yes just installing those pills in the suspensions straps, I Felt like the plastic was going to break on install. I'm sorry but to all who want a good honest review and opinion, buy something else. I only give things one shot. No matter how much things may improve in the future, VBC will never receive another dollar from me. And I spent a lot on the kit, hop ups and spares. Any product that's been made that has let me down I close the door and never look back as I can never fully trust investing my hard earned money in that direction ever again. I have had a handful of bad experiences like this and I always felt that giving an honest, direct, review of my experiences can help people save their pennies for something that's worth it.

This industry, as well as others, are fraught with people that are either compensated for their positive reviews or have something to gain by putting out false impressions of products. I have read so many reviews on several cars online and they are all positive. How in the world can that be? I believe in the approach that some of the top gear presenters in the UK took by putting out all the faults and being very blunt about a product. When you do a review you have to be objective and be honest otherwise your integrity and credibility as a human being in all matters means nothing when you do everything for personal gain.. What happens in this case is people eventually catch on and realize all the BS and eventually they will look back to the person who put out this 100% positive review and ask them selves why they listened in the first place. There is one presenter on YouTube that is pretty honest with his RC car reviews I'm sure you all know who he is and that's probably one of the only people in this industry that has been able to put out Objective views at least that I have seen.
It's a great car and well worth the money.

Mouse squeal shocks? I've heard of a few people assembling them with too many o rings or the guides in the wrong orientation. I did have one shock that seemed tighter in the bore as it seemed to have uneven coating. It freed up after 1 race meet and was as smooth as the others. Potentially there are burrs on your piston. I use green slime in the seals. Off road ones require careful filing. Contact your place of purchase for their recommendations and o-rings.

Some manufacturers of Spurs are thicker. I personally coat the inner and outer spur bearing with a very thin film of Loctite.
I either use a correct shim or sand the face of the spur axle so there is no or less than .1 side play. I adjust and check using this method until there is no bearing side load.

For any manufacturer It's better to be on the slightly sloppy side than run loaded bearings. VBC can't account for what brand of spur customers wish to use.

My spur spins very freely with no slop whatsoever.
The new ball cup plastics wear quickly. I Replace mine with D07 ones when required.
I've replaced my alloy rear driveshafts with steel ones as my alloy ones wore a groove against the pin in open class. I possibly didn't have them lubed enough.
I damaged about 4-5 diffs before switching to Much more diff oil and haven't had an issue since. 2 Outdrives have spread open but this is possibly due to the worn alloy driveshaft binding and mashing the throttle in open.
The plastic hunge pin inserts are way too weak but I've bent far fewer hinge pins. I sometimes run the d07 P00 front and e25 solid alloy blocks.
I've heard of some carbon chassis being tweaked out of the box. Possibly can happen with the top deck.
I've seen this from most manufacturers. Same as a real car. They can't supply everything perfect all the time regardless what QC measures they take.
Just contact your dealer and let them know you have x y z problems out of the box. I'm sure they'll rectify it.

I've seen lots of friends ream XRay and yoke arms.
The D08 only requires reaming of the outer arm hinge pin holes. The inners rotate inside the ball bushes with less flex stiction and slop than an xray type system.
There is slight slop to the sway bar ball cups. I paid $3 for some Xray or arc ones... Others have used o-rings. My car did exactly the same lap times on high grip and low grip tracks with the kit cups though.

Inner camber link? Did you need it to handle like the Manly ferry? Never heard of anyone anywhere getting much response and grip from loooong links. It's a lightening hole

My D08 was $200 cheaper than a XRAY T4. It's a shame you've had such a negative experience.

I've had D06 D07 and now D08. They've included features and "upgrades" traditionally not offered by Yokomo and XRAY. It's high quality and exceptional value for money.

Last edited by midse; 05-11-2016 at 08:17 AM. Reason: Stuff
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:37 AM   #290
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I've ran the D05, a Ghost / D06 hybrid, and a D06. They were all pretty darn good cars. Wanted to run a shaft drive so swith ed over to a Tamiya Evo 6 with exo conversion. I will be out if the racing scene until late October, early November. I am hoping that VBC gets back on a normal release schedule so I can possibly pick up the 8.1 or 09 that gets released. I'd really like to see some bulkheads with the new bearing sway bars (much better looking than x-rays attempt) while having the Ghost RM inner camber links.
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Old 05-11-2016, 09:59 PM   #291
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I have owned both Xray , schumcher and HB cars, and must say that after having owned the car both D08 and D07 before, so VBC car very much car for the money . and that the VBC that evolved a whole lot just now last few years. the quality of their arms, hubs, and the chassis has been incredibly well.
durability is perfect now more and that the car is faster on the tracks when the right things have to be corrected on it. which has led it to have better cornering speed and responds very nicely on new settings that you try it on.

VBC is really going on , and they continue with this fine development so will their vehicles be more podium finishes than we can imagine .

keep up the good work VBC Crew and ther will always be haters around us ..
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:02 PM   #292
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Still have my D06. It was a decent build, but quality still wasn't as good as my X-ray T4.
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Old 05-12-2016, 05:32 AM   #293
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Still have my D06. It was a decent build, but quality still wasn't as good as my X-ray T4.
We all know Xray is the standard bearer for durability and perceived quality. However for a kit that is 20%-25% lower in cost and comes with more in the box , I believe VBC and others have even better value.
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:13 AM   #294
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All the tips given have been tried and still the build was not up to par with what I expected. I didn't assemble anything incorrectly, and I Did use the .1 shims mentioned for the spur play. The shocks don't feel right and I'm not the only one to mention this. Look maybe you all had a better experience and maybe you all just have different expectations. I had high expectations of this chassis and no matter what I couldn't get over spending money for this kit and having these problems. I've built many many kits and this wasn't my first rodeo. So I'm sorry but I disagree, I'd rather spend the 100 more and buy an X-ray or Schumacher.

Last edited by tonyv2382; 06-15-2016 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:17 AM   #295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodney Racer View Post
I had a tweek issue with my D08 as well and no matter what I did I could not get the tweak out. For the heck of it I flipped the top deck over and all the tweak was gone, not sure how or why, but that was the only build problem I had with the car.

Your picture pretty much negates your argument on reaming the arms of the car. You wouldn't ream the MI6 arms since your locking the pins in place with the grub screws. So why would you ream the arms of the D08? For that matter any of the cars that use a suspension bridge that supports the pin with a floating pillow bushing shouldn't need the arms reamed. (Tamiya,Serpent,Yokomo,VBC) The real difference is, with the MI6, that because they are using ball bearings, as soon as you start to increase arm toe you put extra drag/bind on those bearings opposed to the floating bushing that floats in the suspension holder and eliminates the drag or bind. I don't see the MI6 bearings floatng in their holders.

CPlus is correct.
My picture illustrates how a a company made the hinge pin assembly better and more free without the need for reaming. I never said you'd have to ream the mi6 arms lol, I stated you shouldn't have to ream anything. The inner pins on the d08 were so snug and needed reaming just to move. Maybe in your world that's acceptable, not in mine.
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:25 AM   #296
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Originally Posted by midse View Post
It's a great car and well worth the money.

Mouse squeal shocks? I've heard of a few people assembling them with too many o rings or the guides in the wrong orientation. I did have one shock that seemed tighter in the bore as it seemed to have uneven coating. It freed up after 1 race meet and was as smooth as the others. Potentially there are burrs on your piston. I use green slime in the seals. Off road ones require careful filing. Contact your place of purchase for their recommendations and o-rings.

Some manufacturers of Spurs are thicker. I personally coat the inner and outer spur bearing with a very thin film of Loctite.
I either use a correct shim or sand the face of the spur axle so there is no or less than .1 side play. I adjust and check using this method until there is no bearing side load.

For any manufacturer It's better to be on the slightly sloppy side than run loaded bearings. VBC can't account for what brand of spur customers wish to use.

My spur spins very freely with no slop whatsoever.
The new ball cup plastics wear quickly. I Replace mine with D07 ones when required.
I've replaced my alloy rear driveshafts with steel ones as my alloy ones wore a groove against the pin in open class. I possibly didn't have them lubed enough.
I damaged about 4-5 diffs before switching to Much more diff oil and haven't had an issue since. 2 Outdrives have spread open but this is possibly due to the worn alloy driveshaft binding and mashing the throttle in open.
The plastic hunge pin inserts are way too weak but I've bent far fewer hinge pins. I sometimes run the d07 P00 front and e25 solid alloy blocks.
I've heard of some carbon chassis being tweaked out of the box. Possibly can happen with the top deck.
I've seen this from most manufacturers. Same as a real car. They can't supply everything perfect all the time regardless what QC measures they take.
Just contact your dealer and let them know you have x y z problems out of the box. I'm sure they'll rectify it.

I've seen lots of friends ream XRay and yoke arms.
The D08 only requires reaming of the outer arm hinge pin holes. The inners rotate inside the ball bushes with less flex stiction and slop than an xray type system.
There is slight slop to the sway bar ball cups. I paid $3 for some Xray or arc ones... Others have used o-rings. My car did exactly the same lap times on high grip and low grip tracks with the kit cups though.

Inner camber link? Did you need it to handle like the Manly ferry? Never heard of anyone anywhere getting much response and grip from loooong links. It's a lightening hole

My D08 was $200 cheaper than a XRAY T4. It's a shame you've had such a negative experience.

I've had D06 D07 and now D08. They've included features and "upgrades" traditionally not offered by Yokomo and XRAY. It's high quality and exceptional value for money.
You do realize that you're stating all the issues you had with the car everything you had to do to make it work secondly whether or not you think using that camber hole is useless the consumer should have the option to use every adjustment provided from the box so making excuses on how you'll never use it anyway is not a valid argument if it's there it should be functional and usable
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:17 PM   #297
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Originally Posted by theproffesor View Post
We all know Xray is the standard bearer for durability and perceived quality. However for a kit that is 20%-25% lower in cost and comes with more in the box , I believe VBC and others have even better value.
I am willing to pay a higher premium for higher quality and that is a personal choice. Some people are not and that is totally fine. My main car is an Awesomatix and parts are even more expensive than X-ray.

And I've never had to ream X-ray arms or anyone else that I've known locally. This goes for my XB4 too. The shocks on my D06 were not as good as my X-ray. But guess what, the X-ray shocks are not even as good as my Tamiya 418/Kyosho velvet shocks.
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:15 PM   #298
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But guess what, the X-ray shocks are not even as good as my Tamiya 418/Kyosho velvet shocks.
+1 Kyosho velvet shocks are the best IMO.

Also quality is also no guaranty of performance.

Anyway back to he D08, it is fast steering of the yokomo with turn in of the xray. So far zero broken parts in 3 months of racing ticks the durability box for me.
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Old 05-16-2016, 07:15 AM   #299
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I'm fairly certain that if we poll enough people from virtually any make/model of car manufacturer there will be horror stories of what folks have experienced. I personally experienced a some of the issues folks have listed above but nothing that wasn't reasonably easy to address.

For most anyone out there looking at the D08, I am extremely happy with mine. I've owned way too many cars over the years and the D08 is number 1/2 on my list. I've been running this for 5+ months on an indoor carpet track and this car performs very well, responds to tuning better than most cars I have owned and has proven to be very durable.

Great car in my opinion.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:25 PM   #300
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Originally Posted by Dan View Post
I am willing to pay a higher premium for higher quality and that is a personal choice. Some people are not and that is totally fine. My main car is an Awesomatix and parts are even more expensive than X-ray.

And I've never had to ream X-ray arms or anyone else that I've known locally. This goes for my XB4 too. The shocks on my D06 were not as good as my X-ray. But guess what, the X-ray shocks are not even as good as my Tamiya 418/Kyosho velvet shocks.
For sale? I'll give it a good home.
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