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Old 01-13-2016, 03:08 PM   #61
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Spares and option parts are in stock too.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...v=&sortlist=XX
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:11 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post

I know that, as it has been stressed heavily on this thread. Check to see if other manufacture parts (Kyosho, TRF, Xray, Spec-R, 3Racing) and you may pleasantly be surprised.

A clone is a clone, and this is being used to help keep costs down. If a club racer breaks a couple hubs on their Xray, and is looking for a cheaper alternative, components from this clone (and many others) can prevent this club racer from being discouraged.

On the flipside, a racer starting out with a clone will have the ability to upgrade to Xray hubs, if they choose to do so. There is nothing wrong with clones (or clones of clones, or rebrands of clones).

Rather than making everything proprietary, there is becoming a trend in modular-fitting parts, and that's a good thing. After a few beers, ask a factory Team driver how many non-team parts are in something as trivial as his left rear shock. Again, you might be pleasantly surprised.

As this Basher car is exclusive to Hobbyking, parts will be volatile (you currently can't buy Basher-branded spare arms for the BT-4). But again, if you realize that it is a clone, you'll be pleasantly surprised that 3racing Zero S arms will likely fit - which means TRF and Xray arms can be made to work also - because some areas of the world are not very savvy to what Team C is, nor do they care that Team C is just another clone that has been cloned.
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:00 PM   #63
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Arms are now in stock, as well as pretty much everything else that was missing.
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:37 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by (0000000000) View Post
I know that, as it has been stressed heavily on this thread. Check to see if other manufacture parts (Kyosho, TRF, Xray, Spec-R, 3Racing) and you may pleasantly be surprised.

A clone is a clone, and this is being used to help keep costs down. If a club racer breaks a couple hubs on their Xray, and is looking for a cheaper alternative, components from this clone (and many others) can prevent this club racer from being discouraged.

On the flipside, a racer starting out with a clone will have the ability to upgrade to Xray hubs, if they choose to do so. There is nothing wrong with clones (or clones of clones, or rebrands of clones).

Rather than making everything proprietary, there is becoming a trend in modular-fitting parts, and that's a good thing. After a few beers, ask a factory Team driver how many non-team parts are in something as trivial as his left rear shock. Again, you might be pleasantly surprised.

As this Basher car is exclusive to Hobbyking, parts will be volatile (you currently can't buy Basher-branded spare arms for the BT-4). But again, if you realize that it is a clone, you'll be pleasantly surprised that 3racing Zero S arms will likely fit - which means TRF and Xray arms can be made to work also - because some areas of the world are not very savvy to what Team C is, nor do they care that Team C is just another clone that has been cloned.

I see what you're getting at which is why I referenced a thread explaining the differences between a Clone, Rebrand and Compatible. This car is definitely not a clone of anything where a clone is stealing IP rights. To be more accurate, it's a Rebrand from Team C, and Team C has legitimately reverse engineered their product to be "compatible" with many of the XRay parts.

I realize most people don't care about the difference but there is a fine line where the word clone is considered derogatory and compatible is perfectly acceptable and 100% legal in the US:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reverse_engineering
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Old 01-22-2016, 03:46 PM   #65
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Hi there!
I did an after run review of the BT-4, if you interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QO_P...ature=youtu.be
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:01 AM   #66
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How are the plastics on this car? How is the slop? This car looks like the best sub $150 car on the market. What are the weak parts/spares that one should carry.
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Old 02-01-2016, 11:39 AM   #67
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Interested to see if anyone has run that outside yet?
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Old 02-01-2016, 05:48 PM   #68
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How much slop is there in the turnbuckles and ball ends? Actually want to replace the stock ones on my Awesomatix as they aren't the best, a lot of people go the X Ray ones but these look the same size (4.9mm)
Going to answer my own question here

The rod ends are rubbish, if you try and do any adjustment to the turnbuckles on a set up station, they bind up and pop off the suspension ball.
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Old 03-06-2016, 10:55 AM   #69
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Does anyone know which 3Racing models have compatible diffs? I stripped out one of the screw holes while building the stock diff, and it's pissing oil everywhere. I know XRay and Team C diffs will fit, but there are so many variations on the 3Racing platform and I'm not sure if they're all cross-compatible.
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Old 03-09-2016, 10:35 AM   #70
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What does the car weigh, ready to run, before adding any lead or brass?
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Old 03-31-2016, 05:43 PM   #71
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FWIW, I'm running this car in our 21.5 USGT class on the new super dark carpet (I believe it's called ozite, not sure I'm an off-road guy playing on on-road). The car is actually quite good. The only weak points I have found to the car are in the steering. It really needs a servo saver, but you'll still break the center link on the bell cranks. I've 3D printed a beefier one, but now the spindles will break. That's not too bad tho as XRay ones fit great. The big thing that has me concerned is the plastic spur mount. I ran 48p gears very successfully, but I finally striped it yesterday. I'm trying a 64p setup from the XRAY guys, so we'll see how that goes.

Setup wise the car has a ton more roll to it than the XRAY cars at my track. Going up to 35wt AE oil has helped, but I think it's going to need a bit more. I'm thinking stiffer springs next and I'll try swaybars once the parts are back in stock. Personally, I'd recommend starting with kit setup and AE 40wt oil all around and leaving the rest of the car with kit setup. This is a great starting point and you can fine tune for your track with springs and rear diff oil as needed.

Competition wise, the car is on point! My first time it racing with it I held down 2nd before breaking my first steering spindle. Now, after purchasing a fresh motor and battery I'm consistently a full second faster a lap than I previously was! This car has been a great test to see if I'd enjoy running on-road, and it's cheap enough to upgrade guilt free. If you're hesitating, quit it and just buy the dang thing.

Electronics setup:
TrackStar Sportsman 60a - maxed punch
Hobbywing v10 21.5t G2
Turnigy Ultimate 7500mah
Hobby King MI full size servo with 0.03sec transit time
M12 remote and receiver
Yeah Racing tornado fan w/ heatsink

Last edited by RedBMaster; 04-01-2016 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:50 PM   #72
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I have this car and I bought the optional aluminum arm mounts, but the holes are much bigger than the hinge pins. I assume it uses some kind of bushings on the hinge pins that fit into the aluminum arm mounts. Does anyone know a part number of those bushings?
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:14 PM   #73
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I have this car and I bought the optional aluminum arm mounts, but the holes are much bigger than the hinge pins. I assume it uses some kind of bushings on the hinge pins that fit into the aluminum arm mounts. Does anyone know a part number of those bushings?
The arm mount balls are part number T01050, although Hobbyking list them as shock balls.
Team C sell their TR10 spares with the same part numbers, so if Hobbyking doesn't have the parts any Team C stockist should have them.
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:25 PM   #74
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The arm mount balls are part number T01050, although Hobbyking list them as shock balls.
Team C sell their TR10 spares with the same part numbers, so if Hobbyking doesn't have the parts any Team C stockist should have them.
I found them and got some coming from Evolution Hobbies. Thanks!
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:55 AM   #75
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FLASH SALE @ Hobby King Right now.
ARR w/ 13.5 $129 each

Just bought me 2
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