regular maintenance for pan cars
#1
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
regular maintenance for pan cars
What's your regular maintenance like for your pan cars (12th, WGT, etc)? When you come back from weekly racing and prepare for next week's, what do you go over?
What do you do on a less frequent basis (every month, every season, etc)?
What do you do on a less frequent basis (every month, every season, etc)?
#2
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
weekly 1/12th scale car prep
after each 1/12th scale race day I typically do the following:
1) clean the front end (kingpins) to ensure that both sides will still drop freely under their own weight when the springs are removed. Once you've achieved that, then re-lube the kingpins and re-assemble (I normally use a drop of 20k on each kingpin). Also check preload (sag) on the front springs. Adjust as necessary with shims or by adjusting the kingpin length. Replace front springs if one of them has collapsed signifcantly (occasionally it happens even just with normal usage and no big crashes).
2) clean the diff and re-assemble with fresh AE diff lube. If cleaned weekly, I rarely find it necessary to replace any diff parts. With regular cleaning and re-lube, along with proper diff adjustment, the diff parts seem to last almost indefinitely.
3) clean and re-lube the side tubes. I typically use 20k.
4) make sure that the rear pod pivots freely...which means that both side links are free and the center pivot is still in line with them. Adjust center pivot position as necessary to achieve totally click and bind free pod movement. note: it is necessary to check this item during a race day - anytime that you hit anything hard or anytime your car takes a tumble. Proper center pivot alignment is absolutely critical to good handling and it doesn't take that hard of a hit to knock the center pivot out of alignment, so check this item anytime your car takes a hit.
5) check tightness of all of the various chassis screws.
6) re-set up to make race ready: adjust ride height (i ususally go with 3.5mm all around), adjust pod droop (I like 1mm), adjust front sag (I like almost none), adjust side spring settings (I like just touching), and adjust tweak.
6) perhaps every 2nd or 3rd race day - clean, reoil, and reassemble the center shock.
1) clean the front end (kingpins) to ensure that both sides will still drop freely under their own weight when the springs are removed. Once you've achieved that, then re-lube the kingpins and re-assemble (I normally use a drop of 20k on each kingpin). Also check preload (sag) on the front springs. Adjust as necessary with shims or by adjusting the kingpin length. Replace front springs if one of them has collapsed signifcantly (occasionally it happens even just with normal usage and no big crashes).
2) clean the diff and re-assemble with fresh AE diff lube. If cleaned weekly, I rarely find it necessary to replace any diff parts. With regular cleaning and re-lube, along with proper diff adjustment, the diff parts seem to last almost indefinitely.
3) clean and re-lube the side tubes. I typically use 20k.
4) make sure that the rear pod pivots freely...which means that both side links are free and the center pivot is still in line with them. Adjust center pivot position as necessary to achieve totally click and bind free pod movement. note: it is necessary to check this item during a race day - anytime that you hit anything hard or anytime your car takes a tumble. Proper center pivot alignment is absolutely critical to good handling and it doesn't take that hard of a hit to knock the center pivot out of alignment, so check this item anytime your car takes a hit.
5) check tightness of all of the various chassis screws.
6) re-set up to make race ready: adjust ride height (i ususally go with 3.5mm all around), adjust pod droop (I like 1mm), adjust front sag (I like almost none), adjust side spring settings (I like just touching), and adjust tweak.
6) perhaps every 2nd or 3rd race day - clean, reoil, and reassemble the center shock.