DamianW

iTrader: (5)

D4 use a 12.3mm broad power band rotor (purple) reduce can timing to 10-15deg.

ESC timing, boost 35-40, turbo 15-20. All you need to do is tune the rpm set points.

Skiddins

They always run hot once they've been pushed to the edge.

There's no way you can run competitively in a 13.5 boosted race without a fan, as if you don't need one, you're not using enough power.

Cooling is a bit less of a requirement in Mod.
But in either you want your motor to run as cool as possible to keep it's resistance lower.

Perhaps if the motors are 'outlaw' your can get away with it.

DamianW

iTrader: (5)

You are welcome to believe that.

Skiddins

Not so much belief, as experience of it as my main class, run almost every week since 13.5 brushless motors became available.

I've only ever killed a couple of 13.5's over the years

Bar

iTrader: (1)

Damian is right, here in the UK we have been running this class for 4 years I think, If you want performance you have to push the motor, meaning the motor will run quite hot, if it is running really cool then you are most likely not getting the maximum performance out of the motor.

DamianW

iTrader: (5)

We have run boosted since boosted ESC were available.

I think you should try blinky and you may redefine what you consider warm and hot.

Skiddins

Boosted gets hot, blinky is like trying to control a runaway nuclear reactor, whilst still moaning about not having enough speed, asking which motor is best this month and changing batteries every few meetings to try and stay on top

DamianW

iTrader: (5)

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Alright you two.

Let's move on and focus on grearing, and esc settings. I own both LRP Flow and Hobbeing V3.1 esc. Both esc has various boost and turbo settings.

Gearing - should the gearing be focused for the the infield? Straight? Or a mix of the two?

I'm still new to esc settings, what do you generally focus on?

On the LRP setup.

Motor 27.8 degrees of timing (motor checker), at the moment the motor is still using the stock rotor (12.45). I'll switch it out to the 1s 12.25 when I get the chance.

LRP X20 (12.45) with 27.8 degrees of timing.
FLOW ESC settings. (V5.4, settings that were adjusted are listed below)

Torque timing 15
Boost Timing 45
Boost Ramp 30

Maybe, I'll have switch out the rotor since the torque timing might be too much for the 12.45 rotor. I'll have to see what comes of it.

Skiddins

A mix.
ESC settings seem to vary wildy from ESC manufacturer to manufacturer, but most go for fairly high low to mid timing, with some extra boost on a delay for the straight.

Video from Andreas Myberg's FB page of 13.5 boosted;
https://video-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hv...5a&oe=55F24839

His ESC setup (ORCA I Believe);

fdr 5.5

5%
40
-1
0.03
55
-1
10
8k

30% plus expo on the throttle on transmitter.

Do you have any pics/video of the track as that might help people give you better advice (I've never run your ESC's so can't really help with those)

DamianW

iTrader: (5)

I have found optimal setting the can timing to 10-15deg (Trinity recommend -10 to 10 deg for there motors) and using the ESC to do the rest.

The below settings are to suit a 12.3mm broad power band type rotor.
Gearing I would start at 7.0:1 for an indoor track and tune from there.

For the HW V3 ESC typically settings I would use, with a 12.3mm broad power band rotor is.

Motor timing 10 deg,
Boost 40 deg
Turbo 20 deg
Turbo delay set to 0.0s, turbo ramp 12deg/0.1s possibly 15deg/0.1.

rpm points
Start for boost as low as possible, end point around 30,000-35,000rpm.
Turbo start slightly lower than boost ie around 27,000-33,000rpm.

You need to be mindful of keeping the total ESC and can timing at around 70-75 deg for a 13.5T motor.

More can timing results in lower efficiency at lower rpms and more heat but can provide slightly more punch. If your motor is running hot (if the gearing is about right) use less can timing and increase the boost timing start point.

I normally use turbo activation with both throttle and rpm. On occasion I have used turbo with throttle only but when doing this I reduce the boost timing.

xevias

iTrader: (1)

Ed and I are preparing for AOC at Yatabe Arena. Huge carpet track.
http://www.yatabearena.com/raceway3.html

With a motor that has 35* timing built into it like the R1 Ultra Premium V7, does the 70-75* guide refer to 10* can motor timing? Does that translate to 100-110* when using real motor timing numbers from an analyzer?

Tying to extrapolate all your guy's info to relate to a Fleta Pro as I can find only one set up for boosted 13.5

And that set up flips your suggestion:
Motor timing = 28*
Boost = 26*
Turbo = 40*

I'm assuming this setting was for a track with a very long straight like Yatabe, correct?

DamianW

iTrader: (5)

When I say can timing above I meant the real motor timing. With motors that are off by a long way I would suggest using a motorlyser ect to check the real motor timing.

I haven't used a Feta pro but some ESC manufactures don't have timing end points (the esc works it out ramp rates ect on its own). Whilst this has less settings to adjust IMO it doesn't work as well. Some local racers who use ESC with similar setups found the performance was inconsistent and to get around this they use less boost more can timing and more turbo.

Perhaps this is how the Feta timing operates?

tc3team

I am no expert with motor timing but I do know that the total timing and gearing also depends on the weather. I know it's an extreme but I'd rather hold the motor back a little if it's a very hot day.

To finish first, first you have to finish...

Bar

iTrader: (1)

I meant the other Damian, two Damians ahhhh :P