827LikesWorld GT-R Rules and Discussion
09-19-2016, 08:39 AM
#811
Ah ha! Now I know who jetnjme is... 
Back to business...Unpackaging the Ford GT today to check its fitment on my CRC WGT-R car.
Bill
Back to business...Unpackaging the Ford GT today to check its fitment on my CRC WGT-R car.
Bill
09-19-2016, 09:17 AM
#813
Again, these are mostly preference. One of the best bodies I've seen on other cars is the PF Cadillac. Another is the HPI MR2.
09-19-2016, 11:02 AM
#814
CRC Rubber Tires:
Hey Dumper, we are wanting to try a variation of the GT-R class on the high banked/high speed VELODROMES.
Running a pretty stock WGT type flat track setup with an oval truck body (lower front downforce) that truck was a nightmare at speed, very unpredictable. We're thinking the tires may need to be a bit firmer to pull this off - so we'll try to do something different with inserts.
For our VELO racing we currently use JOHN'S BSR EHW Capped Tires which work very well for our needs, but we're looking for other options towards the future with a Turn Key car/chassis that can be used for velo racing (where what we use now is all custom built or modified old oval chassis cars)
Any tips you might suggest in trying to make these tires work at speeds in excess of 50 MPH?
Hey Dumper, we are wanting to try a variation of the GT-R class on the high banked/high speed VELODROMES.
Running a pretty stock WGT type flat track setup with an oval truck body (lower front downforce) that truck was a nightmare at speed, very unpredictable. We're thinking the tires may need to be a bit firmer to pull this off - so we'll try to do something different with inserts.
For our VELO racing we currently use JOHN'S BSR EHW Capped Tires which work very well for our needs, but we're looking for other options towards the future with a Turn Key car/chassis that can be used for velo racing (where what we use now is all custom built or modified old oval chassis cars)
Any tips you might suggest in trying to make these tires work at speeds in excess of 50 MPH?
09-19-2016, 11:18 AM
#815
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: " The World's Most Famous Beach "
Posts: 2,307
Trader Rating: 89 (100%+)
Bodies
Well I scrapped the Sofia and I will try mounting the new ATSV-R 200mm protoform body I picked up on my old 10R5/0n-point conversion .
May even pick up the GT !
May even pick up the GT !
09-19-2016, 12:44 PM
#816
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: " The World's Most Famous Beach "
Posts: 2,307
Trader Rating: 89 (100%+)
Bodies
Well I scrapped the Sofia and I will try mounting the new ATSV-R 200mm protoform body I picked up on my old 10R5/0n-point conversion .
May even pick up the GT !
May even pick up the GT !
09-19-2016, 01:17 PM
#817
CRC Rubber Tires:
Hey Dumper, we are wanting to try a variation of the GT-R class on the high banked/high speed VELODROMES.
Running a pretty stock WGT type flat track setup with an oval truck body (lower front downforce) that truck was a nightmare at speed, very unpredictable. We're thinking the tires may need to be a bit firmer to pull this off - so we'll try to do something different with inserts.
For our VELO racing we currently use JOHN'S BSR EHW Capped Tires which work very well for our needs, but we're looking for other options towards the future with a Turn Key car/chassis that can be used for velo racing (where what we use now is all custom built or modified old oval chassis cars)
Any tips you might suggest in trying to make these tires work at speeds in excess of 50 MPH?
Hey Dumper, we are wanting to try a variation of the GT-R class on the high banked/high speed VELODROMES.
Running a pretty stock WGT type flat track setup with an oval truck body (lower front downforce) that truck was a nightmare at speed, very unpredictable. We're thinking the tires may need to be a bit firmer to pull this off - so we'll try to do something different with inserts.
For our VELO racing we currently use JOHN'S BSR EHW Capped Tires which work very well for our needs, but we're looking for other options towards the future with a Turn Key car/chassis that can be used for velo racing (where what we use now is all custom built or modified old oval chassis cars)
Any tips you might suggest in trying to make these tires work at speeds in excess of 50 MPH?
09-19-2016, 09:45 PM
#818
Ford GT body
Gotta say that fitting the new Ford GT body was a tad more involved than usual. The PFM-10, HPI Corvette C6 and HPI Porsche GT-1 were all easier projects in comparison. But, the Ford GT fits pretty well...and looks trick...Thanks to Dale Epp of Protoform.
On my CRC WGT-R/T car (with short wheelbase setup), I did find:
1) After painting...Trimmed body to bottom cutline all around which made for easy alignment on chassis. Chassis is 5.5 mm high; bottom of body is at 7.0 mm.
2) Front grill of body aligned almost 3/8" ahead of the standard CRC foam bumper. If I had gone with the long wheelbase, the gap would have been 1/2" plus.
2) Front wheel wells aligned nicely. Very close.
3) Rear wheel well cut lines are placed somewhat high on the body. Would probably align better (front-to-rear) with long wheelbase; but, not any better vertically.
4) Stiffness of body structure is exceptional. Have to credit all the contours and rear tunnels. Shouldn't have any issues with rear body tucks if hit from behind.
5) Ford GT body weighs about 10-15 grams more than the other bodies mentioned. Just have to remove an equal amount of ballast to be at min wt.
6) Body is a tad longer than the PFM-10; but, is shorter than the HPI bodies noted above.
7) Car is both attractive and different. Certainly is deserving of a kewl paint job.
Conclusion: Probably will run this or the PFM-10 at the IIC.
Hope this helps.
Bill
On my CRC WGT-R/T car (with short wheelbase setup), I did find:
1) After painting...Trimmed body to bottom cutline all around which made for easy alignment on chassis. Chassis is 5.5 mm high; bottom of body is at 7.0 mm.
2) Front grill of body aligned almost 3/8" ahead of the standard CRC foam bumper. If I had gone with the long wheelbase, the gap would have been 1/2" plus.
2) Front wheel wells aligned nicely. Very close.
3) Rear wheel well cut lines are placed somewhat high on the body. Would probably align better (front-to-rear) with long wheelbase; but, not any better vertically.
4) Stiffness of body structure is exceptional. Have to credit all the contours and rear tunnels. Shouldn't have any issues with rear body tucks if hit from behind.
5) Ford GT body weighs about 10-15 grams more than the other bodies mentioned. Just have to remove an equal amount of ballast to be at min wt.
6) Body is a tad longer than the PFM-10; but, is shorter than the HPI bodies noted above.
7) Car is both attractive and different. Certainly is deserving of a kewl paint job.
Conclusion: Probably will run this or the PFM-10 at the IIC.
Hope this helps.
Bill
Last edited by Still Bill; 09-19-2016 at 09:59 PM.
09-20-2016, 04:49 AM
#819
PF Ford GT Body
Bill- Thank you for providing the in-depth info on the PF Ford GT body mounting. Your picture is fantastic!
I got my body from the local UPS driver late last night.
I got my body from the local UPS driver late last night.
10-10-2016, 02:16 PM
#821
Can anyone recommend a good starting FDR for 17.5?
10-10-2016, 08:40 PM
#823
Can some of you guys post up some chassis photos? I'm trying to get my esc / wiring finished up and need some inspiration. This is the part that I spend forever trying to figure out what to put where! Come on wireless electronics - where are you at? Any pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
10-11-2016, 01:46 PM
#824
I personnely like the shotrest wires as possible. I would attempt to send pictures but I'm experimenting with the different battery positions. I orginally had the battery down the center. Now I'm trying the battery in the transverse set-up. With the battery down the middle I had my esc in front of the motor under the damper tubes.
10-11-2016, 05:22 PM
#825
I personnely like the shotrest wires as possible. I would attempt to send pictures but I'm experimenting with the different battery positions. I orginally had the battery down the center. Now I'm trying the battery in the transverse set-up. With the battery down the middle I had my esc in front of the motor under the damper tubes.