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Old 04-08-2016, 08:14 AM   #541
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Thanks for the info Rick. My F1 on Pits is usually dialed except on a poorly prepped surface.
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:21 AM   #542
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Originally Posted by davidl View Post
I am assuming that you are running each car per class rules. I can easily believe your F1 is "white knuckle" because the power is so much different. I run my WGT-R in the class with USGT. They run the same power as the F1, but have the advantage of the USGT tire, 4WD and the 2 cells lipo power. My little single cell on 17.5 is not near the same "rip" from the corners as they have. Putting 2 cell 21.5 in my car would make it a big handfull as I have maximized the traction of my car and can not increase it.

Having said all of that, I think F1 should be single cell and take your pick of 13.5 or 17.5. The cars would be more drive-able and I think popularity would sky rocket.
I agree with the 1 cell F1 but here in the midwest several tracks have adopted the soon to be released ROAR 25.5 combo. Still more rip that the 17.5 1 cell but much more manageable. Racing improved a ton when we did that and we actually went more laps on our indoor tracks. As far as WGT-R for indoors I think the 17.5 1 cell is perfect. On a bigger track I could easily see 13.5 in them though. CRC got it right with this class.
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:36 AM   #543
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I agree with you on the F1 1S setup. They will be a lot nicer to drive. I have done back to back test with 1S 17.5 vs 2s 21.5 and 25.5. You are correct that 1S is a lot easier to drive.

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I agree with the 1 cell F1 but here in the midwest several tracks have adopted the soon to be released ROAR 25.5 combo. Still more rip that the 17.5 1 cell but much more manageable. Racing improved a ton when we did that and we actually went more laps on our indoor tracks. As far as WGT-R for indoors I think the 17.5 1 cell is perfect. On a bigger track I could easily see 13.5 in them though. CRC got it right with this class.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:59 PM   #544
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Several weeks ago I tried my WGT-R on Asphalt with the exact setup as we run indoors. Both myself and my friend tried our cars on the world famous Kissimmee (fla)gas/electric track. Both cars very right on the money.
We also raced our foam 17.5 GT cars . Yes they were faster than the WGT-R and handled very good also.
Both of these classes are very competitive and the most fun I've had in years. When we race the TC guys see just how much fun we are having. We are now getting some of those guys getting these cars to race with us. We will be starting a series within a series very soon and both my friend and I will be promoting these two classes with special trophies and hopefully prizes to get even more races to come join our fun.
I wish we could get either one of these two classes at the ROAR Nationals coming up in September. As our WGT class has died and that's all he will offer.
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Old 04-10-2016, 06:00 AM   #545
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Questions??

I need a bit of advice on my CRC GenX10 SE with CRC rubber tires...

I put 2.5mm spacers under the rear pods and can get the 5mm ride height easy.
In the front I have the #3 ride height spacer with 2.5mm spacers on the screws (under the front plate). I get 10mm ride height. What am I doing wrong?
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Old 04-10-2016, 07:59 AM   #546
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I actually used a 1.5mm spacers front and rear. I think I said previously I used 2mm, For the frontend I have a #4 and either the 2mm or 2.5mm roll center (3279) spacer up front. Adjusted the center spring (I'm using the red) and I get 5mm front and rear.Also using the 2nd hole front the rear on the top plate for the shock mount.
I measure by the servo and by the pivot ball for the 5mm.
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Last edited by BullFrog; 04-10-2016 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:03 AM   #547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NomadRacer View Post
I need a bit of advice on my CRC GenX10 SE with CRC rubber tires...

I put 2.5mm spacers under the rear pods and can get the 5mm ride height easy.
In the front I have the #3 ride height spacer with 2.5mm spacers on the screws (under the front plate). I get 10mm ride height. What am I doing wrong?
A picture is worth a 1000 words so I have attached a few that shows how mine is set up.
I have the older chassis style so there is a stack up of 2 additional carbon pieces as well as the 4mm plastic riser. The front end is a one off custom assembly of my own design. The whole front end assembly including the servo can be adjusted and removed via the (4) 8/32 screws at the bottom.
It sounds like you should be close with how you spaced the front end. Are you running any kingpin spacers on the front steering blocks? That could cause your issue as well. Make sure you have at least 0.5mm droop on the front which will lower your ride height by that amount as well as improve handling. Lack of droop is probably the most common problem I see with most cars I help with.
Attached Thumbnails
The Official World GT-R Rules and Discussion-img_0555.jpg   The Official World GT-R Rules and Discussion-img_0558.jpg   The Official World GT-R Rules and Discussion-img_0562.jpg   The Official World GT-R Rules and Discussion-img_0561.jpg  
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Last edited by YoDog; 04-10-2016 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:08 AM   #548
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Originally Posted by BullFrog View Post
I actually used a 1.5mm spacers front and rear. I think I said previously I used 2mm, For the frontend I have a #4 and either the 2mm or 2.5mm roll center (3277) spacer up front. Adjusted the center spring (I'm using the red) and I get 5mm front and rear.Also using the 2nd hole front the rear on the top plate for the shock mount.
I measure by the servo and by the pivot ball for the 5mm.
I installed the #4 spacer and it helped a small amount, moved to the second from the rear mounting hole on the top plate for the shock. I don't have any 1.5 - 2.0mm spacers to try.

I checked for the #3277 and it turns up this at CRC...
https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules....prodID=7718958

Did you mean #3279?
https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules....prodID=7719459

YoDog, Thanks for sharing your pics
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:19 AM   #549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NomadRacer View Post
I installed the #4 spacer and it helped a small amount, moved to the second from the rear mounting hole on the top plate for the shock. I don't have any 1.5 - 2.0mm spacers to try.

I checked for the #3277 and it turns up this at CRC...
https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules....prodID=7718958

Did you mean #3279?
https://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules....prodID=7719459

YoDog, Thanks for sharing your pics
I added a little more insight that might be helpful so please re-read my post.
You are correct regarding the roll center spacers. the 3277 is primarily for the long arm conversion and will also change roll center. I recommend picking up the long arm conversion. I have it on my car and love it!
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:46 AM   #550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
A picture is worth a 1000 words so I have attached a few that shows how mine is set up.
I have the older chassis style so there is a stack up of 2 additional carbon pieces as well as the 4mm plastic riser. The front end is a one off custom assembly of my own design. The whole front end assembly including the servo can be adjusted and removed via the (4) 8/32 screws at the bottom.
It sounds like you should be close with how you spaced the front end. Are you running any kingpin spacers on the front steering blocks? That could cause your issue as well. Make sure you have at least 0.5mm droop on the front which will lower your ride height by that amount as well as improve handling. Lack of droop is probably the most common problem I see with most cars I help with.
I don't have any king pin spacers installed, just assembled with kit provided parts. I'm guessing they would go between the steering block and the lower arm mount? I can order some Associated #8425 shims, would they do the job?
If not, what do I need to get? I order most of my stuff from Ashford Hobby.

I don't understand what to do in regards to getting the 0.5mm droop on the front end. I'm fresh/new to onroad and have been out of the game for many years.

Thanks for helping me on this!
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Old 04-10-2016, 11:18 AM   #551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NomadRacer View Post
I don't have any king pin spacers installed, just assembled with kit provided parts. I'm guessing they would go between the steering block and the lower arm mount? I can order some Associated #8425 shims, would they do the job?
If not, what do I need to get? I order most of my stuff from Ashford Hobby.

I don't understand what to do in regards to getting the 0.5mm droop on the front end. I'm fresh/new to onroad and have been out of the game for many years.

Thanks for helping me on this!
I had a feeling you would ask about front droop. Like I said... it's the most common issue I come across. Droop is determined by spring rate and preload. When you have the car ready to run without the body, the steering blocks should settle with a small space between the lower arm pivot ball and the steering block. This gap is your droop. If there is no gap under the weight of the car, you can back out the kingpin until the spring preload is reduced enough to allow the blocks to settle. Are you running the longer 1/10th kingpins or the short 1/12th kingpins? Straight or tapered springs? Most people prefer to run softer front springs on the front for rubber tires, myself included. I like the CRC 0.45mm F1 springs with the long kingpins as they are longer than the 1/12th springs while still being a straight design. They compress easier as well which contributes to achieving droop.
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Old 04-10-2016, 12:08 PM   #552
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@ YoDog

Thanks for your continued help in getting my car setup.

I understand what your saying about droop now

I have the 1/10 long (3228) kingpins with the kit (3393) 8 x 0.50mm straight springs. Looking at my car I don't have any droop. When I built the front end I had to turn in the kingpins to keep them from dragging on the inside of the rubber tire rims. I take it this put a pre-load on the springs.

On the CRC website I see the #3391 1/10 Front End Springs (8 x 0.45) listed. What I could not find is the 0.45 F1 springs you mention.
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Old 04-10-2016, 12:45 PM   #553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NomadRacer View Post
@ YoDog

Thanks for your continued help in getting my car setup.

I understand what your saying about droop now

I have the 1/10 long (3228) kingpins with the kit (3393) 8 x 0.50mm straight springs. Looking at my car I don't have any droop. When I built the front end I had to turn in the kingpins to keep them from dragging on the inside of the rubber tire rims. I take it this put a pre-load on the springs.

On the CRC website I see the #3391 1/10 Front End Springs (8 x 0.45) listed. What I could not find is the 0.45 F1 springs you mention.
Since you are using the straight springs, are the 3287 - Nylon Spring Cups being used on the bottom of the kingpins? If so, remove them. The 8mm length springs are the ones used on the WTF1 car, I believe. that having been said, After looking closer at my car, I realized exactly how my front end is set up. Once again, a picture is much better than my ramblings.
I have a 2mm spacer between the pivot ball and the steering block as seen in the pic below. Please ignore the fact that I sanded the upper pivot ball retainer. The ribs on the wheels rubbed a little and I didn't have any 1/8 ID axle shims to create a gap.
Attached Thumbnails
The Official World GT-R Rules and Discussion-img_0566comp.jpg  
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Old 04-10-2016, 01:36 PM   #554
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I meant the 3279. If you were here I'd set it up for you. YoDog -I like the front end. You made the chassis also. I also put about 1 1/2 - 2 degrees of camber. Finally on carpet especially the new CRC carpet super glue the sidewall of the outside of the front tires only.
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Old 04-10-2016, 01:46 PM   #555
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Huge thanks guys!

I'll order some springs and parts tonight. Hope to be able to dig back into getting the chassis setup right in a few days.

I'm surely not done seeking information!
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