240LikesMotiv RC
02-13-2019, 04:00 PM - Wikipost
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06-08-2016, 12:32 PM
#212
06-09-2016, 02:24 AM
#215
I would start with the same gearing you ran before, keeping in mind that you may want to gear up. Get a feel for it with just the rotor, check the temps and if everything checks out there I believe you'll want to go up a tooth.
06-21-2016, 09:57 AM
#217
Just an interesting little FYI for those who run 1/12.
I have recently been trying a borrowed car that has a different brand 3.5t - not Motiv. I was struggling with the car lifting, hiking, and being generally inconsistent and difficult to drive. After switching to one of my Motivs all of the issues I previously encountered have now been resolved - all because the Motiv weighs ~18 grams less.
That is a huge amount of weight - especially in the pod of a 1/12. Just something to think about when running 1/12, especially faster classes on high bite. Motor weight really does make a difference in car feel and driveability, and the Motiv motors really do provide an advantage with how light they are.
(Similar to Alex H's advantage, as evidenced at Birds, but you can actually buy the Motiv mod motors
)
I have recently been trying a borrowed car that has a different brand 3.5t - not Motiv. I was struggling with the car lifting, hiking, and being generally inconsistent and difficult to drive. After switching to one of my Motivs all of the issues I previously encountered have now been resolved - all because the Motiv weighs ~18 grams less.
That is a huge amount of weight - especially in the pod of a 1/12. Just something to think about when running 1/12, especially faster classes on high bite. Motor weight really does make a difference in car feel and driveability, and the Motiv motors really do provide an advantage with how light they are.
(Similar to Alex H's advantage, as evidenced at Birds, but you can actually buy the Motiv mod motors
)
06-22-2016, 05:29 AM
#218
That's some great info Chris, thanks for sharing!
I'm sure many have noticed the Wikipost at the top of this thread. I started working with Matt M. about a week ago to get that set-up but I had some issues with entering the info I wanted. Seems like it is working for me now. Thanks to Matt for the help!
This Wikipost seems like a great way to help folks get a good starting set-up for most situations with our motors. So far we have started out with what the team has found over the past year, but we are always open to receiving feedback & suggestions.
I'm sure many have noticed the Wikipost at the top of this thread. I started working with Matt M. about a week ago to get that set-up but I had some issues with entering the info I wanted. Seems like it is working for me now. Thanks to Matt for the help!
This Wikipost seems like a great way to help folks get a good starting set-up for most situations with our motors. So far we have started out with what the team has found over the past year, but we are always open to receiving feedback & suggestions.
06-29-2016, 04:33 PM
#219
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06-30-2016, 05:02 AM
#220
My Motive 25.5 compared to other 25.5's I have ran seems to have a little more punch and run a touch hotter than the Team Scream or Trinity I have ran, the Trinity being the worse and the TSR motor being real close. As for compared to a 17.5, I have never ran a 17.5 in my F1, but I imagine the 17.5 would be harder to drive with more punch and top end.
07-03-2016, 12:41 AM
#221
I'm curious what test equipment MOtiv use to get their readings on their labels when you buy a motor.
I tested my 13.5 using my usual gear and here's how I ended up:
Rotor, they said +1556-1546 On a Trinity Igauss I got +1365-1307
Stator they said 13.2, 13.2, 13.1 on a Motor Measurement System MM2.0 I got 13.5, 13.6, 13.5
Sensor they said 49 degrees at max end bell I got 45 on a Skyrc motor analyser (variance was similar they had 3 degrees I had 2)
Additionally at a now load rpm test on a fresh 2s I hd 3673kv @ 4A
On a loaded Dyno test (using an Eagle Racing MD2 Dyno) I got 200 Watts @ 13.5k RPM Peak Efficiency 80% @ 19.6k RPM
Just did this out of interest, I am just moving into 13.5 from 21.5 and have done a few races with it in my T4, certainly don't think I lack any speed compared to anyone else as far as motor goes, but my driving needs to improve a bit I'm down about 1 second a lap (driver skill lacking!) Geared at 4.2 FDR the motor comes off around 40-45c without a fan or heatsink on it.
I tested my 13.5 using my usual gear and here's how I ended up:
Rotor, they said +1556-1546 On a Trinity Igauss I got +1365-1307
Stator they said 13.2, 13.2, 13.1 on a Motor Measurement System MM2.0 I got 13.5, 13.6, 13.5
Sensor they said 49 degrees at max end bell I got 45 on a Skyrc motor analyser (variance was similar they had 3 degrees I had 2)
Additionally at a now load rpm test on a fresh 2s I hd 3673kv @ 4A
On a loaded Dyno test (using an Eagle Racing MD2 Dyno) I got 200 Watts @ 13.5k RPM Peak Efficiency 80% @ 19.6k RPM
Just did this out of interest, I am just moving into 13.5 from 21.5 and have done a few races with it in my T4, certainly don't think I lack any speed compared to anyone else as far as motor goes, but my driving needs to improve a bit I'm down about 1 second a lap (driver skill lacking!) Geared at 4.2 FDR the motor comes off around 40-45c without a fan or heatsink on it.
07-03-2016, 04:56 AM
#222
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
I'm curious what test equipment MOtiv use to get their readings on their labels when you buy a motor.
I tested my 13.5 using my usual gear and here's how I ended up:
Rotor, they said +1556-1546 On a Trinity Igauss I got +1365-1307
Stator they said 13.2, 13.2, 13.1 on a Motor Measurement System MM2.0 I got 13.5, 13.6, 13.5
Sensor they said 49 degrees at max end bell I got 45 on a Skyrc motor analyser (variance was similar they had 3 degrees I had 2)
Additionally at a now load rpm test on a fresh 2s I hd 3673kv @ 4A
On a loaded Dyno test (using an Eagle Racing MD2 Dyno) I got 200 Watts @ 13.5k RPM Peak Efficiency 80% @ 19.6k RPM
Just did this out of interest, I am just moving into 13.5 from 21.5 and have done a few races with it in my T4, certainly don't think I lack any speed compared to anyone else as far as motor goes, but my driving needs to improve a bit I'm down about 1 second a lap (driver skill lacking!) Geared at 4.2 FDR the motor comes off around 40-45c without a fan or heatsink on it.
I tested my 13.5 using my usual gear and here's how I ended up:
Rotor, they said +1556-1546 On a Trinity Igauss I got +1365-1307
Stator they said 13.2, 13.2, 13.1 on a Motor Measurement System MM2.0 I got 13.5, 13.6, 13.5
Sensor they said 49 degrees at max end bell I got 45 on a Skyrc motor analyser (variance was similar they had 3 degrees I had 2)
Additionally at a now load rpm test on a fresh 2s I hd 3673kv @ 4A
On a loaded Dyno test (using an Eagle Racing MD2 Dyno) I got 200 Watts @ 13.5k RPM Peak Efficiency 80% @ 19.6k RPM
Just did this out of interest, I am just moving into 13.5 from 21.5 and have done a few races with it in my T4, certainly don't think I lack any speed compared to anyone else as far as motor goes, but my driving needs to improve a bit I'm down about 1 second a lap (driver skill lacking!) Geared at 4.2 FDR the motor comes off around 40-45c without a fan or heatsink on it.
07-03-2016, 10:46 AM
#223
I'm curious what test equipment MOtiv use to get their readings on their labels when you buy a motor.
I tested my 13.5 using my usual gear and here's how I ended up:
Rotor, they said +1556-1546 On a Trinity Igauss I got +1365-1307
Stator they said 13.2, 13.2, 13.1 on a Motor Measurement System MM2.0 I got 13.5, 13.6, 13.5
Sensor they said 49 degrees at max end bell I got 45 on a Skyrc motor analyser (variance was similar they had 3 degrees I had 2)
Additionally at a now load rpm test on a fresh 2s I hd 3673kv @ 4A
On a loaded Dyno test (using an Eagle Racing MD2 Dyno) I got 200 Watts @ 13.5k RPM Peak Efficiency 80% @ 19.6k RPM
Just did this out of interest, I am just moving into 13.5 from 21.5 and have done a few races with it in my T4, certainly don't think I lack any speed compared to anyone else as far as motor goes, but my driving needs to improve a bit I'm down about 1 second a lap (driver skill lacking!) Geared at 4.2 FDR the motor comes off around 40-45c without a fan or heatsink on it.
I tested my 13.5 using my usual gear and here's how I ended up:
Rotor, they said +1556-1546 On a Trinity Igauss I got +1365-1307
Stator they said 13.2, 13.2, 13.1 on a Motor Measurement System MM2.0 I got 13.5, 13.6, 13.5
Sensor they said 49 degrees at max end bell I got 45 on a Skyrc motor analyser (variance was similar they had 3 degrees I had 2)
Additionally at a now load rpm test on a fresh 2s I hd 3673kv @ 4A
On a loaded Dyno test (using an Eagle Racing MD2 Dyno) I got 200 Watts @ 13.5k RPM Peak Efficiency 80% @ 19.6k RPM
Just did this out of interest, I am just moving into 13.5 from 21.5 and have done a few races with it in my T4, certainly don't think I lack any speed compared to anyone else as far as motor goes, but my driving needs to improve a bit I'm down about 1 second a lap (driver skill lacking!) Geared at 4.2 FDR the motor comes off around 40-45c without a fan or heatsink on it.
And please always use a fan on the motor in a touring car.
07-06-2016, 09:55 AM
#224
Tech Addict
iTrader: (38)
I have read the above Wiki guide for gearing. I do have a question, my car has a 1.83 final drive ratio which is very different of what most of the cars in the marketplace are using (mostly 1.9 to 2.0). Should I gear the motor to get less RPM and more torque to offset the rather high FDR of my car? I feel the car lacking punch with the current gearing I'm using for a 21.5 motor on a big track (leisure hours). Using a final drive of 3.7.
07-06-2016, 11:57 AM
#225
I have read the above Wiki guide for gearing. I do have a question, my car has a 1.83 final drive ratio which is very different of what most of the cars in the marketplace are using (mostly 1.9 to 2.0). Should I gear the motor to get less RPM and more torque to offset the rather high FDR of my car? I feel the car lacking punch with the current gearing I'm using for a 21.5 motor on a big track (leisure hours). Using a final drive of 3.7.