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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Motiv RC
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NEW FOR 2017 - MC2!

MOTIV M-Code motors, now MC2 for 2017, come pre-set to perform well in most applications. Each MOTIV M-Code motor comes with a specification check list specific to that individual motor. All MOTIV M-Code spec motors come standard with the new "S-HIGH" rotor. If you prefer a different rotor, please send an email via the "Contact Us" page on the Motiv site and reference your order.

Motiv dealers in the U.S. that have received MC2s are:

ProLevel RC
Fordham Hobbies
Lefthander RC
TQ RC Racing
Activ RC
Gripworks RC
Stormer Hobbies
AMain Hobbies
NorCal Hobbies

& More - Check your local hobby shop!

“Defy” Series Pro Li-Po battery weights

“Shorty” 2 Cell, 7.4v, 5000mah, 65c+ - 215 grams
“Thin Shorty” 2 Cell, 7.4v, 3900mah, 65c+ - 159 grams
2 Cell, 7.4v, 5000mah, 60c+ - 258 grams
2 Cell, 7.4v, 6000mah, 90c+ - 311 grams

Following are some suggested starting points for the MC2 line of motors for each class (we will update/add to this as often as possible). One key piece to pay attention to when adjusting your motor is Amp Draw. Try to keep spec motors around 3.0.

25.5 F1
FDR: 2.9-3.2
Timing: 42-45* measured on Motolyser
Rotor: 12.3mm standard
Fan: Yes

25.5 USVTA
FDR: 3.6-3.9
Timing: 44-46* measured on Motolyser
Rotor: 12.3mm standard
Fan: Yes

21.5 USGT
FDR: 3.9-4.1
Timing: 46-48* measured on Motolyser
Rotor: S-HIGH
Fan: Yes

17.5 TC (Indoor/Small-Std. size Tracks)
FDR: 4.1-4.4
Timing: 46-48* measured on Motolyser
Rotor: S-HIGH
Fan: Yes

17.5 TC (Outdoor/Larger Tracks)
FDR: 3.8-4.0
Timing: 46-48* measured on Motolyser
Rotor: S-HIGH
Fan: Yes

17.5 1/12
Rollout: 83-85mm
Timing: 44-46* measured on Motolyser
Rotor: S-MID
Fan: No

13.5 TC (Indoor/Small-Std. size Tracks)
FDR: 4.7-4.9
Timing: 46-48* measured on Motolyser
Rotor: S-HIGH
Fan: Yes

13.5 TC (Outdoor/Larger Tracks)
FDR: 4.4-4.6
Timing: 46-48* measured on Motolyser
Rotor: S-HIGH
Fan: Yes

13.5 1/12
Rollout: 78-80mm
Timing: 44-46* measured on Motolyser
Rotor: S-MID
Fan: No

WGTR
Rollout: 73mm
Timing: 46
Rotor: S-MID for larger tracks. S-HIGH for smaller tracks, or tracks with black carpet.

17.5 2WD Buggy
FDR: 5.85-6.0
Timing: 45-48*
Rotor: S-HIGH
Fan: Yes

17.5 2WD SC & Stadium Truck
FDR: 7.5-7.8
Timing: 45-47*
Rotor: S-HIGH
Fan: Yes

13.5 4WD Buggy
FDR: 7.0-7.2
Timing: 45-47*
Rotor: S-HIGH
Fan: Yes

Following are starting points for Mod motors in the MC1 line

7.5 2WD Buggy
FDR: 10.2
Timing: @ 28*
Rotor: M-MID
Fan: Optional

5.5 TC
FDR: 7.0-7.2
Timing: @ 30*
Rotor: M-HIGH
Fan: Optional

4.5 TC
FDR: 7.6-7.8
Timing: @ 20*
Rotor: M-HIGH
Fan: Optional

Every MOTIV Motor is hand checked, assembled and packaged by a professional in house at our WI, USA office. During this process every motor component must meet MOTIV requirements before assembly and packaging. Included is a specification check list which is filled out on a motor to motor basis all through the testing and assembly process to ensure the quality of our finished product


How its Made: Motiv RC Brushless Motor assembly w/ Paul Lemieux

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Old 06-08-2016, 12:22 PM   #211
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Anyone running a 25.5 in their F1 by chance?
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Old 06-08-2016, 12:32 PM   #212
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Anyone running a 25.5 in their F1 by chance?
One of the guys at my track does. He is the "the guy to beat" each week. He has been very impressed with it.
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Old 06-08-2016, 01:19 PM   #213
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Anyone running a 25.5 in their F1 by chance?
I do as well.
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Old 06-08-2016, 03:44 PM   #214
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I do as well.
Had you run 17.5 before? Just curious if you feel that the motor has more punch, yet is more tractable and less prone to break out. I run 200mm foam F1.
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Old 06-09-2016, 02:24 AM   #215
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Originally Posted by Schwarta View Post
Bought a high strength rotor for my blinky 13.5t (touring), what type of gearing change should I start with going from the stock rotor?
Hi Schwarta,

I would start with the same gearing you ran before, keeping in mind that you may want to gear up. Get a feel for it with just the rotor, check the temps and if everything checks out there I believe you'll want to go up a tooth.
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:00 AM   #216
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Hi Schwarta,

I would start with the same gearing you ran before, keeping in mind that you may want to gear up. Get a feel for it with just the rotor, check the temps and if everything checks out there I believe you'll want to go up a tooth.
Cheer's, will do.

Thanks.
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Old 06-21-2016, 09:57 AM   #217
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Just an interesting little FYI for those who run 1/12.

I have recently been trying a borrowed car that has a different brand 3.5t - not Motiv. I was struggling with the car lifting, hiking, and being generally inconsistent and difficult to drive. After switching to one of my Motivs all of the issues I previously encountered have now been resolved - all because the Motiv weighs ~18 grams less.

That is a huge amount of weight - especially in the pod of a 1/12. Just something to think about when running 1/12, especially faster classes on high bite. Motor weight really does make a difference in car feel and driveability, and the Motiv motors really do provide an advantage with how light they are.

(Similar to Alex H's advantage, as evidenced at Birds, but you can actually buy the Motiv mod motors )
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Old 06-22-2016, 05:29 AM   #218
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That's some great info Chris, thanks for sharing!

I'm sure many have noticed the Wikipost at the top of this thread. I started working with Matt M. about a week ago to get that set-up but I had some issues with entering the info I wanted. Seems like it is working for me now. Thanks to Matt for the help!

This Wikipost seems like a great way to help folks get a good starting set-up for most situations with our motors. So far we have started out with what the team has found over the past year, but we are always open to receiving feedback & suggestions.
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Old 06-29-2016, 04:33 PM   #219
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Default 2016-17 Midwest All-Star Carpet Series

Thanks Paul!!!

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Old 06-30-2016, 05:02 AM   #220
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Originally Posted by 1/8 IC Fan View Post
Had you run 17.5 before? Just curious if you feel that the motor has more punch, yet is more tractable and less prone to break out. I run 200mm foam F1.
My Motive 25.5 compared to other 25.5's I have ran seems to have a little more punch and run a touch hotter than the Team Scream or Trinity I have ran, the Trinity being the worse and the TSR motor being real close. As for compared to a 17.5, I have never ran a 17.5 in my F1, but I imagine the 17.5 would be harder to drive with more punch and top end.
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Old 07-03-2016, 12:41 AM   #221
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I'm curious what test equipment MOtiv use to get their readings on their labels when you buy a motor.

I tested my 13.5 using my usual gear and here's how I ended up:

Rotor, they said +1556-1546 On a Trinity Igauss I got +1365-1307
Stator they said 13.2, 13.2, 13.1 on a Motor Measurement System MM2.0 I got 13.5, 13.6, 13.5
Sensor they said 49 degrees at max end bell I got 45 on a Skyrc motor analyser (variance was similar they had 3 degrees I had 2)

Additionally at a now load rpm test on a fresh 2s I hd 3673kv @ 4A

On a loaded Dyno test (using an Eagle Racing MD2 Dyno) I got 200 Watts @ 13.5k RPM Peak Efficiency 80% @ 19.6k RPM

Just did this out of interest, I am just moving into 13.5 from 21.5 and have done a few races with it in my T4, certainly don't think I lack any speed compared to anyone else as far as motor goes, but my driving needs to improve a bit I'm down about 1 second a lap (driver skill lacking!) Geared at 4.2 FDR the motor comes off around 40-45c without a fan or heatsink on it.
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Old 07-03-2016, 04:56 AM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
I'm curious what test equipment MOtiv use to get their readings on their labels when you buy a motor.

I tested my 13.5 using my usual gear and here's how I ended up:

Rotor, they said +1556-1546 On a Trinity Igauss I got +1365-1307
Stator they said 13.2, 13.2, 13.1 on a Motor Measurement System MM2.0 I got 13.5, 13.6, 13.5
Sensor they said 49 degrees at max end bell I got 45 on a Skyrc motor analyser (variance was similar they had 3 degrees I had 2)

Additionally at a now load rpm test on a fresh 2s I hd 3673kv @ 4A

On a loaded Dyno test (using an Eagle Racing MD2 Dyno) I got 200 Watts @ 13.5k RPM Peak Efficiency 80% @ 19.6k RPM

Just did this out of interest, I am just moving into 13.5 from 21.5 and have done a few races with it in my T4, certainly don't think I lack any speed compared to anyone else as far as motor goes, but my driving needs to improve a bit I'm down about 1 second a lap (driver skill lacking!) Geared at 4.2 FDR the motor comes off around 40-45c without a fan or heatsink on it.
Paul has a video on Youtube that shows the assemble and testing of a Motiv motor. It should answer all of your questions.
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Old 07-03-2016, 10:46 AM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
I'm curious what test equipment MOtiv use to get their readings on their labels when you buy a motor.

I tested my 13.5 using my usual gear and here's how I ended up:

Rotor, they said +1556-1546 On a Trinity Igauss I got +1365-1307
Stator they said 13.2, 13.2, 13.1 on a Motor Measurement System MM2.0 I got 13.5, 13.6, 13.5
Sensor they said 49 degrees at max end bell I got 45 on a Skyrc motor analyser (variance was similar they had 3 degrees I had 2)

Additionally at a now load rpm test on a fresh 2s I hd 3673kv @ 4A

On a loaded Dyno test (using an Eagle Racing MD2 Dyno) I got 200 Watts @ 13.5k RPM Peak Efficiency 80% @ 19.6k RPM

Just did this out of interest, I am just moving into 13.5 from 21.5 and have done a few races with it in my T4, certainly don't think I lack any speed compared to anyone else as far as motor goes, but my driving needs to improve a bit I'm down about 1 second a lap (driver skill lacking!) Geared at 4.2 FDR the motor comes off around 40-45c without a fan or heatsink on it.
I think they use a motilizer for testing. Very accurate, very expensive.
And please always use a fan on the motor in a touring car.
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:55 AM   #224
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I have read the above Wiki guide for gearing. I do have a question, my car has a 1.83 final drive ratio which is very different of what most of the cars in the marketplace are using (mostly 1.9 to 2.0). Should I gear the motor to get less RPM and more torque to offset the rather high FDR of my car? I feel the car lacking punch with the current gearing I'm using for a 21.5 motor on a big track (leisure hours). Using a final drive of 3.7.
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Old 07-06-2016, 11:57 AM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madness View Post
I have read the above Wiki guide for gearing. I do have a question, my car has a 1.83 final drive ratio which is very different of what most of the cars in the marketplace are using (mostly 1.9 to 2.0). Should I gear the motor to get less RPM and more torque to offset the rather high FDR of my car? I feel the car lacking punch with the current gearing I'm using for a 21.5 motor on a big track (leisure hours). Using a final drive of 3.7.
Not sure how gearing influences motor characteristics from one car's internal ratio to another, but a few weeks ago I ran a Motiv 21.5 in touring with a 3.88 final drive and 48* timing with good results. My car has a 1.9 internal gear ratio. This was for a smaller track, and torque seemed fine. So, try getting closer to the high 3.8's in FDR and see how that works.
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