1 cell F1RULES?
#1
1 cell F1RULES?
I have heard rumour of clubs trying 1 cell f1 cars to get all their pan car classes on the same page. Is there any truth to this because it makes perfect sense to me and it would make it much easier the pan car drivers to run multipul classes.
#3
In england i think it is 21.5 2s or 13.5 1s they run both together.
#4
Curious: How would it make it easier for Pan car drivers to run Multiple Classes?
Reuse the same battery twice a round???
All the F1 guys, and there are more of them than pan cars guys, would have to buy new batteries and/or Motors and 1S ESC
F1 has no roar rules, we use the UF1RC rules, usually
Reuse the same battery twice a round???
All the F1 guys, and there are more of them than pan cars guys, would have to buy new batteries and/or Motors and 1S ESC
F1 has no roar rules, we use the UF1RC rules, usually
#5
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
just remember when using 1c - you have 1/2 the voltage, and if you run a motor that will run the same speed as the current 2c class, you will use twice the amperage, which causes twice the re-charge time. My guess is w/ a 2c 21.5 non-timing setup in a F1 car - in an 8 minute run, they are usuing what 1500-1700 mAh?
When you introduce the 1c - then you get the whole "BOOSTER / REC. PACK" debacle - which is a NON issue w/ 2c.
With that said, on the short tracks a 1c / 21.5 class GEARED TO THE MOON - would probably still be fairly quick as light as those cars are - but IMHO - dump ALL 1c racing and use 2c Shorty packs!!! lol
When you introduce the 1c - then you get the whole "BOOSTER / REC. PACK" debacle - which is a NON issue w/ 2c.
With that said, on the short tracks a 1c / 21.5 class GEARED TO THE MOON - would probably still be fairly quick as light as those cars are - but IMHO - dump ALL 1c racing and use 2c Shorty packs!!! lol
#6
Curious: How would it make it easier for Pan car drivers to run Multiple Classes?
Reuse the same battery twice a round???
All the F1 guys, and there are more of them than pan cars guys, would have to buy new batteries and/or Motors and 1S ESC
F1 has no roar rules, we use the UF1RC rules, usually
Reuse the same battery twice a round???
All the F1 guys, and there are more of them than pan cars guys, would have to buy new batteries and/or Motors and 1S ESC
F1 has no roar rules, we use the UF1RC rules, usually
All the pan car classes would be using the same one cell batteries and esc . If you had a problem your spare esc,and batteries in some cases motors would all be geared around a one cell platform. I hope that makes since.
#7
Tech Rookie
I feel that 2s and 21,5 is perfect for F1 as it is easy and can be a good class for beginners. 1s with its unique materials is good for 1/12 racers ... Hope 1s will not become the F1 trend....
#8
I too cannot see why 1s should do F1 good. Buying new escs and batteries to reach the same speed seems pointless...
#9
If you run 1/12 scale or wgt or a F1 they would use a one cell battery you would only have to have one cell batteries not one or two cells. One cell batteries are cheaper less expense.
All the pan car classes would be using the same one cell batteries and esc . If you had a problem your spare esc,and batteries in some cases motors would all be geared around a one cell platform. I hope that makes since.
All the pan car classes would be using the same one cell batteries and esc . If you had a problem your spare esc,and batteries in some cases motors would all be geared around a one cell platform. I hope that makes since.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...no=1&o_pg_no=1
either way you need two batteries:
so you need two batteries, either 2 are 1s or 1 is 1s and 1 is 2s, still two batteries.
so it would be easier because your spare esc would be the same, well you could buy an spare esc that runs 1s and 2s fine like the LRP.
I just don't see the logic of making the WAY MORE F1 guys buy new stuff for so the FEW Pan cars guys can run the same backup stuff.
If your stuff dies and you have no backup or $$ then you run one class.
It seems odd to me to make it cheaper to run two classes, if we want it cheaper just run one class......
Sorry that sounds bad for the pan cars guys
Not trying to be neg just trying to understand the 'logic'
#10
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I run both 1c and 2c classes - have big and small 1c packs - use mostly SMC packs these days - and bang for MY buck, I prefer a decent 6500 mAh 2c to ANY size 1c pack on price.
In all reality I buy ONE battery pack for every car I plan to run - and most of the time that pack NEVER leaves the car on race day - RACE / RECHARGE / RACE / RECHARGE
I have 2c - 1c , Inboards, Deans, I have On-Road cars, Dirt Oval Cars, Paved Oval Cars, and even an Off-Road Short Course that only get played with at the house.
with that being said - I HATE 1c because in EVERY Car I have that uses them, I also run a REC. pack and I hate having Rec packs too.
In all reality I buy ONE battery pack for every car I plan to run - and most of the time that pack NEVER leaves the car on race day - RACE / RECHARGE / RACE / RECHARGE
I have 2c - 1c , Inboards, Deans, I have On-Road cars, Dirt Oval Cars, Paved Oval Cars, and even an Off-Road Short Course that only get played with at the house.
with that being said - I HATE 1c because in EVERY Car I have that uses them, I also run a REC. pack and I hate having Rec packs too.
#11
I think you are missing the point some guys run pan cars 1 cel 13.5 some guys run touring cars 2 cells 21.5 This would allow racers from either class they originally started with to move into our club's F1 class with the equipment they allready own.
The point is to build the class at our local level and does anyone have any knowledge of racers running single cell f1 and where I can see the rules to see if they make since for my club and my local racing.
The point is to build the class at our local level and does anyone have any knowledge of racers running single cell f1 and where I can see the rules to see if they make since for my club and my local racing.
#12
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I've run 13.5 1S and 21.5 2S. 13.5 is just as fast and easier to drive under hard acceleration. The G-Force, Sky-RC, Fleta Pro, Hobbywing 3.1 and Trackstar Gen ii 120A are all boosterless (built in booster) 1S ESCs ranging from $50 to $300. I know there are at least 3 or 4 more. Most even have the capacitors built in so all you need is the base footprint. There are more I didn't mention. The Trackstar is proficient @ $50, the only accessory needed is the programming card. It is ROAR, BRCA legal. I have one in my CRC to test with the Trackstar 13.5. Cheap and fast.
On batteries: You reduce the rediculous amount of weight added to an F1 down to 950g, and the 13.5 draws about 3000 mAh per run. Charge @ 2C and it's ready in 15 minutes.
1S F1 is an easy jump as everyone who buys in will get a new everything for their new F1 car. The car handles much better without the extra 100+g you have to slap on it.
On batteries: You reduce the rediculous amount of weight added to an F1 down to 950g, and the 13.5 draws about 3000 mAh per run. Charge @ 2C and it's ready in 15 minutes.
1S F1 is an easy jump as everyone who buys in will get a new everything for their new F1 car. The car handles much better without the extra 100+g you have to slap on it.
#13
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
john, how about a 4600 Shorty 2c pack - same as 1c weight - w/o rec pack or booster?
and just a fyi - I charge ALL packs (1c and 2c) at 10 amps - not a big "Charge by "C" rating person" so the diff in charging a 5000 2c at 10 amps for 1500 mah vs charging my 7000 1c @ 10 amps pulling 3000 mah is Double
also note, that is not a complaint... On race day I run 2 chargers and have NEVER had an issue w/ a car not being charged for the next round - unless I forget to put it on the charger between rounds.
2 chargers / 4 cars / between my son and is/was never a problem either...regardless if we ran 1c or 2c, or a combo of both. Using TP610 Chargers on 10 amp.
I too have run 1c / 13.5 "Blinky" and Open Timing, and 21.5 2c both Blinky and Open timing...
The 13.5 1c can turn as fast a lap time, but by far has less "RIP" feel it's more of a momentum speed - than 21.5 2c in both configurations.
and just a fyi - I charge ALL packs (1c and 2c) at 10 amps - not a big "Charge by "C" rating person" so the diff in charging a 5000 2c at 10 amps for 1500 mah vs charging my 7000 1c @ 10 amps pulling 3000 mah is Double
also note, that is not a complaint... On race day I run 2 chargers and have NEVER had an issue w/ a car not being charged for the next round - unless I forget to put it on the charger between rounds.
2 chargers / 4 cars / between my son and is/was never a problem either...regardless if we ran 1c or 2c, or a combo of both. Using TP610 Chargers on 10 amp.
I too have run 1c / 13.5 "Blinky" and Open Timing, and 21.5 2c both Blinky and Open timing...
The 13.5 1c can turn as fast a lap time, but by far has less "RIP" feel it's more of a momentum speed - than 21.5 2c in both configurations.
Last edited by SWTour; 07-21-2015 at 01:36 PM.
#14
I've run 13.5 1S and 21.5 2S. 13.5 is just as fast and easier to drive under hard accelerFordn. The G-Force, Sky-RC, Fleta Pro, Hobbywing 3.1 and Trackstar Gen ii 120A are all boosterless (built in booster) 1S ESCs ranging from $50 to $300. I know there are at least 3 or 4 more. Most even have the capacitors built in so all you need is the base footprint. There are more I didn't mention. The Trackstar is proficient @ $50, the only accessory needed is the programming card. It is ROAR, BRCA legal. I have one in my CRC to test with the Trackstar 13.5. Cheap and fast.
On batteries: You reduce the rediculous amount of weight added to an F1 down to 950g, and the 13.5 draws about 3000 mAh per run. Charge @ 2C and it's ready in 15 minutes.
1S F1 is an easy jump as everyone who buys in will get a new everything for their new F1 car. The car handles much better without the extra 100+g you have to slap on it.
On batteries: You reduce the rediculous amount of weight added to an F1 down to 950g, and the 13.5 draws about 3000 mAh per run. Charge @ 2C and it's ready in 15 minutes.
1S F1 is an easy jump as everyone who buys in will get a new everything for their new F1 car. The car handles much better without the extra 100+g you have to slap on it.
#15
Here are the rules they use at the BRCA in the UK. They run 1s and 2s together the 1s cars are lighter to make up for the lose of voltage.