Xray T4 2016
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#406
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
Just wondering what the differences are of running hard or med plastic parts? My experience with my AE B5M, med will flex more and hard will break easier.
With the T4, will hard be more responsive, and med more grip due to more flex? Are either more fragile than the other?
Also, for a medium grip carpet track, will the stock chassis or the aluminum chassis be more preferable in 17.5 blinky? I have both, just haven't tried them both yet.
With the T4, will hard be more responsive, and med more grip due to more flex? Are either more fragile than the other?
Also, for a medium grip carpet track, will the stock chassis or the aluminum chassis be more preferable in 17.5 blinky? I have both, just haven't tried them both yet.
The chassis choice is tough to call without knowing exactly what the conditions you're running on are. If you were to go aluminum chassis on a traditionally "medium" grip track, I'd recommend the Avid or new Xray chassis with cutouts, which creates a bit more flex than the solid Xray chassis and therefore more grip. If you're running on the new carpet at all, I think the general consensus is that aluminum chassis' are a must.
#407
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Just built up my t416. This will be my first outing for on road. I need to know where to set the body height on the mounts. Manual states eighth hole down in front and seventh in the rear. This seems to set the body really low, wheel well sitting at top of the tire. Advice will be greatly appreciated. After 5 years out of the hobby I'm back! Kids grew up....
#408
Just built up my t416. This will be my first outing for on road. I need to know where to set the body height on the mounts. Manual states eighth hole down in front and seventh in the rear. This seems to set the body really low, wheel well sitting at top of the tire. Advice will be greatly appreciated. After 5 years out of the hobby I'm back! Kids grew up....
The best I can suggest is to fit the car(mounts) to the body, not the other way around. Make your wheel well cuts, mount the body in its natural flat state (use the bottom straight lines as a guide), then once you have the body set use a sharpie, flush to the ground, to trace the bottom cut.
Edit: there's a bunch of YouTube videos out there for a visual of the process.
#409
Just built up my t416. This will be my first outing for on road. I need to know where to set the body height on the mounts. Manual states eighth hole down in front and seventh in the rear. This seems to set the body really low, wheel well sitting at top of the tire. Advice will be greatly appreciated. After 5 years out of the hobby I'm back! Kids grew up....
#410
Do any of you guys use this car for VTA racing? Also if not could this car be used for VTA racing?
#411
#412
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
Most people don't run the latest and greatest chassis in VTA. Many run at least slightly older chassis in keeping with the spirit of the class. You can for sure run it in VTA though, nothing against it. That being said the newer chassis are also extremely light and you need to add a ton of weight to get to the minimum, so older chassis are more popular from this standpoint as well. While most probably aren't running the 2016 car in VTA you can likely find some VTA setups for any T4 car (back to 2013) and they would transfer over well.
#416
Hey, guys,
I have been practicing, using my TRF 419 in the past 2-3 months.
Being a newbie for on-road racing, I am glad that the chassis is still in 1 piece, it has been taking pretty good amount punishment, but I have fewer and fewer accidents now and I found most of time, I could control my car out of huge crashes, if there is a crash, it is most likely a collision with another car.
My friends told me, it is probably good idea to just sell the car and get another something else after I stopped hitting the board.
After I did some math myself, I think it also make sense to just buy a new kit instead of buying replacement parts for my 419.
I think I will need new sets of o rings, new bearings, new chassis plates, maybe a set of DCJs, belts, front bumper mount , and maybe other stuff, if I want to refresh my 419 to top condition.
I just felt like it is a waste of money to dump money on a slightly out dated car, and when looking at newer cars, It just blows my mind that how crappy some designs that tamiya has come up with.
I have been looking at Xray t4 and yokomo bd7, but I think I will most likely get the Xray t4 when I am ready to purchase.
I really like the design of it, and many details are just so well thought, such as active rear toe blocks, sway bar mount with bearings. and suspension arm shaft holder. All these little details make me really wanna own a X ray now.
I am just curious,
Does t4 16 have a "large window" for settings?
How does it perform compare to BD7 on high bite carpet?
Does it feel "easier" to drive?
Is it good idea to buy a used / older version of the T4? or is it the same like radio, buy the greatest you can afford? I bought a used spec r r1 before, but it was pretty hard to get back to like new condition, and I ended up selling it again.
I don't really have a budget, but it is good to save some money for car maintenance. Compare to my 1:1 race car(Mitsubishi Evo X), I found RC cars a lot wallet friendly...
I have been practicing, using my TRF 419 in the past 2-3 months.
Being a newbie for on-road racing, I am glad that the chassis is still in 1 piece, it has been taking pretty good amount punishment, but I have fewer and fewer accidents now and I found most of time, I could control my car out of huge crashes, if there is a crash, it is most likely a collision with another car.
My friends told me, it is probably good idea to just sell the car and get another something else after I stopped hitting the board.
After I did some math myself, I think it also make sense to just buy a new kit instead of buying replacement parts for my 419.
I think I will need new sets of o rings, new bearings, new chassis plates, maybe a set of DCJs, belts, front bumper mount , and maybe other stuff, if I want to refresh my 419 to top condition.
I just felt like it is a waste of money to dump money on a slightly out dated car, and when looking at newer cars, It just blows my mind that how crappy some designs that tamiya has come up with.
I have been looking at Xray t4 and yokomo bd7, but I think I will most likely get the Xray t4 when I am ready to purchase.
I really like the design of it, and many details are just so well thought, such as active rear toe blocks, sway bar mount with bearings. and suspension arm shaft holder. All these little details make me really wanna own a X ray now.
I am just curious,
Does t4 16 have a "large window" for settings?
How does it perform compare to BD7 on high bite carpet?
Does it feel "easier" to drive?
Is it good idea to buy a used / older version of the T4? or is it the same like radio, buy the greatest you can afford? I bought a used spec r r1 before, but it was pretty hard to get back to like new condition, and I ended up selling it again.
I don't really have a budget, but it is good to save some money for car maintenance. Compare to my 1:1 race car(Mitsubishi Evo X), I found RC cars a lot wallet friendly...
#417
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
I am just curious,
Does t4 16 have a "large window" for settings?
The kit settings are pretty spot on, but you can venture away from it and still manage the car if you go in the wrong direction.
How does it perform compare to BD7 on high bite carpet?
Personally can't comment, but I have read the Xray is better on carpet, about a wash with Yok on asphalt. For really high grip carpet the aluminum chassis is preferred (I believe the Yokomo can come with an aluminum chassis in the kit, whereas Xray is aftermarket only)
Does it feel "easier" to drive?
Compared to what? Can't comment on it related to the BD7. Most TC's are similar now a days
Is it good idea to buy a used / older version of the T4? or is it the same like radio, buy the greatest you can afford? I bought a used spec r r1 before, but it was pretty hard to get back to like new condition, and I ended up selling it again.
Xray has carried many of the same parts through the years, so it is easy to replace common wear items like belts/bearings/arms etc. Older versions will still run great and will save you money up front. The newer cars are worth a couple tenths, but if you are still getting the hang of racing, then you probably won't notice a real difference.
I don't really have a budget, but it is good to save some money for car maintenance. Compare to my 1:1 race car(Mitsubishi Evo X), I found RC cars a lot wallet friendly...
Xray cars rarely if ever break in a wreck, especially if running a stock class. You would only need to replace wear items after quite some time. If you are only racing on high bite carpet the aluminum chassis should be considered.
Bottom line check for a used 2015 with an aluminum chassis and go that route since it is a very similar car to the 2016 and shares many of the features you pointed out. Though a 2013-14 car would still perform great it doesn't have all of the aforementioned features, but will come at a lower price. They should all be competitive for you.
Does t4 16 have a "large window" for settings?
The kit settings are pretty spot on, but you can venture away from it and still manage the car if you go in the wrong direction.
How does it perform compare to BD7 on high bite carpet?
Personally can't comment, but I have read the Xray is better on carpet, about a wash with Yok on asphalt. For really high grip carpet the aluminum chassis is preferred (I believe the Yokomo can come with an aluminum chassis in the kit, whereas Xray is aftermarket only)
Does it feel "easier" to drive?
Compared to what? Can't comment on it related to the BD7. Most TC's are similar now a days
Is it good idea to buy a used / older version of the T4? or is it the same like radio, buy the greatest you can afford? I bought a used spec r r1 before, but it was pretty hard to get back to like new condition, and I ended up selling it again.
Xray has carried many of the same parts through the years, so it is easy to replace common wear items like belts/bearings/arms etc. Older versions will still run great and will save you money up front. The newer cars are worth a couple tenths, but if you are still getting the hang of racing, then you probably won't notice a real difference.
I don't really have a budget, but it is good to save some money for car maintenance. Compare to my 1:1 race car(Mitsubishi Evo X), I found RC cars a lot wallet friendly...
Xray cars rarely if ever break in a wreck, especially if running a stock class. You would only need to replace wear items after quite some time. If you are only racing on high bite carpet the aluminum chassis should be considered.
Bottom line check for a used 2015 with an aluminum chassis and go that route since it is a very similar car to the 2016 and shares many of the features you pointed out. Though a 2013-14 car would still perform great it doesn't have all of the aforementioned features, but will come at a lower price. They should all be competitive for you.
#418
does anybody have a carbon chassis weight vs the std alum vs the flex alum chassis?
thanks
thanks
#419
Tech Adept
48P gears
Good morning,
I have been looking to go 48 pitch as I am not so precise with gearing ratios but more for finishing races. I'm running 17.5 and the smallest gear Xray does is 78.
Does anyone know any suppliers in North America that have smaller offset gears that will fit the T4. Looking for 69-75T. Can't seem to find RW racing, leespeed, or panaracer on any sites.
Thank you
I have been looking to go 48 pitch as I am not so precise with gearing ratios but more for finishing races. I'm running 17.5 and the smallest gear Xray does is 78.
Does anyone know any suppliers in North America that have smaller offset gears that will fit the T4. Looking for 69-75T. Can't seem to find RW racing, leespeed, or panaracer on any sites.
Thank you
#420
Tech Adept
Good morning,
I have been looking to go 48 pitch as I am not so precise with gearing ratios but more for finishing races. I'm running 17.5 and the smallest gear Xray does is 78.
Does anyone know any suppliers in North America that have smaller offset gears that will fit the T4. Looking for 69-75T. Can't seem to find RW racing, leespeed, or panaracer on any sites.
Thank you
I have been looking to go 48 pitch as I am not so precise with gearing ratios but more for finishing races. I'm running 17.5 and the smallest gear Xray does is 78.
Does anyone know any suppliers in North America that have smaller offset gears that will fit the T4. Looking for 69-75T. Can't seem to find RW racing, leespeed, or panaracer on any sites.
Thank you
RW Racing Supalite Spurs 48DP 70T RW48S70
The black RW spurs will always fit in a T4.