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Xray T4 2016

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Old 03-17-2017, 02:10 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Last edit by: R Dodge
Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 10-16-2015, 01:27 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by cplus
Almost done with the build, just electronics now. Oh, and need to change out for alloy screws when they arrive.

So..... What's the best way to free up the ball cups?

A couple of them feel a little bit tight - would prefer all nice and floppy! They certainly take quite a bit more effort to fit than other brands - not going to pop off in a hurry.

On more comparison stuff, I like the end result with the sway bars, definitely not going to be sticky or binding and will be easy to adjust - but gee they sure are a little finicky to install first go!
If the ball cups are a little sticky (I assume you're talking about the shock ends) then I found spinning them up on a Dremel and using some 1500grit sis the job to polish them up and remove a tiny amount of material.
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:30 AM
  #167  
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It's not the shock ends, just one of the turnbuckles and also most of the sway bar ends.

I think they will free up.
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Old 10-16-2015, 04:01 AM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by cplus
It's not the shock ends, just one of the turnbuckles and also most of the sway bar ends.

I think they will free up.
If it was off road, I'd say run it and they will run in. Being on road, I'd take just a little mothers polish to the ball studs. Likely just enough to loosen them up.

Of course if they need more than that, you can use the trick we did on the first Associate B5m kits, and with the link on the ball stud, give the link a small squeeze with needle nose pliers. Should make the cup oval out a bit and relive a little stickiness. Search YouTube for B5m ball cup fix and I'm sure you'll see what I mean.

Anxious to get this car and get back to on-road!
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Old 10-17-2015, 07:57 AM
  #169  
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Setup wise, what would you say is the nr1 thing to get better rotation/faster turning in slow 180/hairpin corners WITHOUT sacrificing rear stability in faster corners? Steering throw is already maxed out.
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:07 AM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by Lawson1307
Setup wise, what would you say is the nr1 thing to get better rotation/faster turning in slow 180/hairpin corners WITHOUT sacrificing rear stability in faster corners? Steering throw is already maxed out.
Hard to say without seeing a setup, but you could try adding some rear droop.
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:40 AM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by erchn
Hard to say without seeing a setup, but you could try adding some rear droop.
You mean a lower value when measuring to get more front weight transfer? I understand your point but its not under breaking, just two slow corners. I guess then its all about throw anyways?
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Old 10-17-2015, 09:04 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Lawson1307
You mean a lower value when measuring to get more front weight transfer? I understand your point but its not under breaking, just two slow corners. I guess then its all about throw anyways?
A setup sheet would sure help, but if close to stock setup, you might try a lower front roll center, this should help low speed steering, though it might feel a bit lazier. You could also add front or remove rear camber to get the low speed where you want it and then learn to drive the faster stuff not at full lock.

I'm not making assumptions about your driving skill, just hard to phrase another way.
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Old 10-17-2015, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by erchn
A setup sheet would sure help, but if close to stock setup, you might try a lower front roll center, this should help low speed steering, though it might feel a bit lazier. You could also add front or remove rear camber to get the low speed where you want it and then learn to drive the faster stuff not at full lock.

I'm not making assumptions about your driving skill, just hard to phrase another way.
Thanks for the tips Yes I'm near stock setup as for now. Yup, point taken about trying to drive faster corners smoother.
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Old 10-18-2015, 03:12 AM
  #174  
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Looks like my kit is finally on the way! Should be here on Tuesday. Can't wait! Thanks to Eric at EAM, I had a ton of questions and he was happy to help.

Seth
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:25 AM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by 3D-Seth
Looks like my kit is finally on the way! Should be here on Tuesday. Can't wait! Thanks to Eric at EAM, I had a ton of questions and he was happy to help.

Seth
Not a problem Seth! Once you get it and start building if you have any questions just shoot me an email. I think you have it on file! LOL

Thanks!
EA
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Old 10-24-2015, 12:03 PM
  #176  
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Just finished up the build of the car. Got everything balanced and tweak free, just waiting on my bodies to show up so I can throw on some paint and hit the track! Excited to put a few laps on this car. Overall pretty uneventful build, pretty happy with it.












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Old 10-24-2015, 12:21 PM
  #177  
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thumbs up 3D-seth!
thats a good looking car!
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Old 10-24-2015, 03:30 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by macscac
thumbs up 3D-seth!
thats a good looking car!
Thanks! Anxious to get it on the track!
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Old 10-25-2015, 11:36 AM
  #179  
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Hav a question that Graphic Arm is not suitable for Low traction? Why?
Read the book that Graphic Arm could stable the car.
Can u giv me some advice? Many thx.!
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Old 10-25-2015, 11:39 AM
  #180  
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Default Some question about Graphite arm.

Originally Posted by Skiddins
The only part I agree with there is alloy shims.
Graphite arms etc aren't suitable for lower grip conditions.
Moving the motor out will effect handling of the car. You need to either, stop worring about the balance, or buy smaller capacity lipos
"Graphite arms etc aren't suitable for lower grip conditions. " Why?
Cuz I play in low traction track, feel Graphite Arm could sometimes been more stable in Low traction.
Is that my illusion leading to wrong way? Or?
Really glad to hear from u.
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