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Old 03-17-2017, 02:10 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Last edit by: R Dodge
Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 05-05-2017, 07:10 PM   #1171
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As stated above it all really relies on your driving style. I personally don't ever run progressives on the rear. Never have liked them.

If I was running a 2.5-2.8 front spring, normally the rear will be a 2.6-2.7 linear spring. Front softer as a 2.3-2.6 spring (sounds like it would be a better option for you honestly), I'd run a 2.3-2.5 rear spring. Again, it all depends on your layout, driving style, and also positions of the shocks on the tower has a great effect on how it handles and drives.

In recent testing (thanks to a discussion via text with Robbie) I've learned and felt that the rear springs as a 2.6-2.7 rate in position 2 feel the same as a 2.5 in position 3 on the tower, with the exception that the 2.5's allow the front to gain more traction on corner entry.

In the end, it's all how you drive, and what you feel. Nothing will ever replace track time and learning every moment you can. Try things just to try them. And when track conditions change, go back and try the same thing again. See how it feels different, how things change, then take notes or lock that info away in your brain. It helps growth.
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Old 05-05-2017, 07:52 PM   #1172
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As stated above it all really relies on your driving style. I personally don't ever run progressives on the rear. Never have liked them.

If I was running a 2.5-2.8 front spring, normally the rear will be a 2.6-2.7 linear spring. Front softer as a 2.3-2.6 spring (sounds like it would be a better option for you honestly), I'd run a 2.3-2.5 rear spring. Again, it all depends on your layout, driving style, and also positions of the shocks on the tower has a great effect on how it handles and drives.

In recent testing (thanks to a discussion via text with Robbie) I've learned and felt that the rear springs as a 2.6-2.7 rate in position 2 feel the same as a 2.5 in position 3 on the tower, with the exception that the 2.5's allow the front to gain more traction on corner entry.

In the end, it's all how you drive, and what you feel. Nothing will ever replace track time and learning every moment you can. Try things just to try them. And when track conditions change, go back and try the same thing again. See how it feels different, how things change, then take notes or lock that info away in your brain. It helps growth.
Lovely... would try them when I'm on track. Thanks guys.
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Old 05-05-2017, 08:04 PM   #1173
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Track time is definitely your best bet. I sometimes spend an entire day just trying different spring combinations. I found that several combinations work pretty good, and several work really bad. Good luck and have fun!
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Old 05-05-2017, 09:50 PM   #1174
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Track time is definitely your best bet. I sometimes spend an entire day just trying different spring combinations. I found that several combinations work pretty good, and several work really bad. Good luck and have fun!

So you also wasted your track fee configuring your car too?
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Old 05-06-2017, 02:51 AM   #1175
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The front feeling softer than the rear is really normal actually. The geometry of the front suspension is different from the rear in order for the front wheels to clear the shocks when you steer. That difference makes the front end naturally softer, and it is the reason why we typically run thicker oils and/or heavier springs on the front.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:23 AM   #1176
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The front feeling softer than the rear is really normal actually. The geometry of the front suspension is different from the rear in order for the front wheels to clear the shocks when you steer. That difference makes the front end naturally softer, and it is the reason why we typically run thicker oils and/or heavier springs on the front.
I see... thanks for the explanation. I will be trying rear anti-squat (0.5 bushing insert facing upwards, with 3 degrees toe-in) too. According to the Hudy system setup handbook, rear anti-squat will increase rear traction (which is my main intention due to pretty low grip on road track condition) and increase steering response. At the same time, I will also make some minor changes to gain more rear roll center. Hope something good will come out the next time I visit my local track.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:34 AM   #1177
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So you also wasted your track fee configuring your car too?
LOL, I look at all club racing as just testing.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:42 AM   #1178
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LOL, I look at all club racing as just testing.
Cool. Unlike me as a noob, I realized that I usually spend most of my time tuning my car (especially after a crash, which is pretty common for me) and ending up didn't have much time practicing on the track.
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Old 05-06-2017, 08:54 AM   #1179
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Cool. Unlike me as a noob, I realized that I usually spend most of my time tuning my car (especially after a crash, which is pretty common for me) and ending up didn't have much time practicing on the track.
Yeah, it's a fine line between tuning and just driving practice. It's really easy for new people to fall into a trap of constantly making changes to their car and not focusing on driving details. I've seen it done a lot with new people. Some times it's better for a newer driver to make only a change (or two) before you get to the track, and at the track just make sure the car is setup the same way before each run (ride height, camber, tire sauce, etc.) Consistency is key. After the day is over, take notes (temp, wind if outside, track conditions) and determine what you should do to your car for the next time you race.
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Old 05-08-2017, 06:00 AM   #1180
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The front feeling softer than the rear is really normal actually. The geometry of the front suspension is different from the rear in order for the front wheels to clear the shocks when you steer. That difference makes the front end naturally softer, and it is the reason why we typically run thicker oils and/or heavier springs on the front.
You mean you run thicker shock oil in front and thinner oil at the rear? Does using different thickness of the shock oil between the front and the rear make a difference when I'm using 0 rebound for my all dampers? I'm using Hudy 450cst or Prospec 450cst in all my dampers with 0 rebound.
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Old 05-08-2017, 08:05 AM   #1181
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Yes. Stiffer oil in the front will make it more responsive and give a bit more steering. I usually always build 0 rebound "dead" shocks.
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:42 AM   #1182
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Yes. Stiffer oil in the front will make it more responsive and give a bit more steering. I usually always build 0 rebound "dead" shocks.
Will 450cst for front and 400cst at the rear do the trick, or does the difference of the oil thickness need to be bigger? Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2017, 04:23 PM   #1183
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Honestly I would recommend starting with the kit setup and adjusting from there. If you think the front of the car rolls a little excessively and you want it to react faster to direction change, then I would go up in 50cst increments until you reach a point where it starts to feel to your liking

The track, temperature and the tire you use will play a factor in what oil is best for you. Sometimes thicker oil isn't necessarily the answer but the above is what usually works for me on carpet.
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Old 05-08-2017, 04:49 PM   #1184
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Honestly I would recommend starting with the kit setup and adjusting from there. If you think the front of the car rolls a little excessively and you want it to react faster to direction change, then I would go up in 50cst increments until you reach a point where it starts to feel to your liking

The track, temperature and the tire you use will play a factor in what oil is best for you. Sometimes thicker oil isn't necessarily the answer but the above is what usually works for me on carpet.
Cool. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 05-09-2017, 02:53 AM   #1185
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Default More/less flex in low traction track

Hi guys

I understand that having more flex in a high traction track is important. However, in a low traction track, will it be more beneficial to have lesser flex? I was thinking of putting in the extra screws underneath the motor mount in my T4 2016 car since I will be running in a low traction track.

Also, is it recommended to configure anti-squat at my rear (aim is to gain more rear traction) without having anti-dive in front? Will having anti-squat at my rear helps to gain more rear traction?

Thank you.
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