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Old 03-17-2017, 02:10 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 03-22-2017, 11:56 PM   #1156
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900 is thin compared to the set up sheets that I have seen. Last season I have tried 2k but I didn't like it.
The car (T3, btw) was breaking out when going on throttle out of the corner. I can (and probably will) give it a try again.
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Old 03-30-2017, 11:04 PM   #1157
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I have found some improvement by removing a screw on the bottom of the car (from the motor mount). This should give the car a bit more flex I believe.
On the bulkheads (for the spur) I also don't have any screws, can I remove more from the upperdeck? This to get more flex. I did also remove the alu stand already.

I also read something on raising the top deck with 1mm spacers. This should also give more flex. Is this correct? you would have to place 12 spacers? Or 8 as I don't have screws on the spur bulkheads.
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Old 03-31-2017, 03:38 AM   #1158
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Originally Posted by IJsbier View Post
I have found some improvement by removing a screw on the bottom of the car (from the motor mount). This should give the car a bit more flex I believe.
On the bulkheads (for the spur) I also don't have any screws, can I remove more from the upperdeck? This to get more flex. I did also remove the alu stand already.

I also read something on raising the top deck with 1mm spacers. This should also give more flex. Is this correct? you would have to place 12 spacers? Or 8 as I don't have screws on the spur bulkheads.
Yep, removing screws from the motor mount makes the chassis flex more at the rear. The effect will vary based on the rest of your setup, your track conditions and the tire you are using, but generally for me more rear flex = less stability.

Yes, you can raise the topdeck with 1mm spacers. This will increase overall flex and since you are now lifting the topdeck off of the center bulkheads, will be more noticeable at the rear and make it more consistent too. In my experience on carpet, this makes the car react a little slower to steering input and direction change, but it will generate more traction in the middle of the corner. Since you are only running the 8 screws, you would just need 8 shims.
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Old 04-01-2017, 12:49 PM   #1159
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I tried the raised (0,75mm) upperdeck today, not really sure about it yet. My biggest problem it getting out of a corner without oversteer or loosing it completely.
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Old 04-13-2017, 03:49 PM   #1160
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anyone know if the '17 chassis will work on the '16? looking into the new solid aluminum chassis.
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Old 04-14-2017, 04:36 AM   #1161
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anyone know if the '17 chassis will work on the '16? looking into the new solid aluminum chassis.
It should fit, however you will have the servo and steering posts slightly moved.
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Old 04-14-2017, 09:24 AM   #1162
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it fits fine. you must buy the 17 motor mount, layshaft mount (as they are 1mm shorter), servo mount and plate, the graphite stiffener. optional Graphite arms if you want full 17' spec. my car was a 16.
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Old 04-20-2017, 03:58 AM   #1163
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Default Xray t4 belts

will the Yokomo BD7 2015 rear belt fit and match the xray belt. ?

thanks
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:17 AM   #1164
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will the Yokomo BD7 2015 rear belt fit and match the xray belt. ?

thanks
Yes I use them I think they are stronger
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Old 04-20-2017, 10:44 AM   #1165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markus View Post
it fits fine. you must buy the 17 motor mount, layshaft mount (as they are 1mm shorter), servo mount and plate, the graphite stiffener. optional Graphite arms if you want full 17' spec. my car was a 16.
you don't need the lower layshaft mounts - although the they are 1mm shorter the ball race is not lowered and stays at the same height as the older 16 layshaft mounts. In fact with 1mm lower layshafts the ballrace still touches the topdeck which is most racers still shim the top deck so it clears the ballraces. so you can save some money and not bother buying them.
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Old 05-05-2017, 01:50 PM   #1166
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Default XRay T4 Progressive Shock Springs

Hi guys

I bought a couple of XRay's T4 shock springs to compile them as a set and some of the springs in my set consists of 2 pairs of 2.5-2.8 and 1 pair of 2.3-2.6 dual rate progressive springs.

Based on what XRay describes for these expensive progressive springs, the springs will change its spring rate during cornering progressively. However, I just read an article that mentioned short springs like T4 springs can't really have real progressive effect as they aren't long enough to produce additional coil at its end. Therefore, may I know XRay T4 progressive springs really have progressive effect during cornering (I'm a noob in RC and can't really feel the progressive effect).?

In addition, in a very low grip technical on-road track, is it advisable to use 2.5-2.8 progressive springs for the front and 2.3-2.6 progressive springs for the rear as I heard that softer springs at the rear would produce more rear traction (as my car would sometimes sway off at the rear during mid corner and exit corner?

Look forward to your helpful advice and thank you.
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Old 05-05-2017, 03:20 PM   #1167
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Originally Posted by Kakaru View Post
Hi guys

I bought a couple of XRay's T4 shock springs to compile them as a set and some of the springs in my set consists of 2 pairs of 2.5-2.8 and 1 pair of 2.3-2.6 dual rate progressive springs.

Based on what XRay describes for these expensive progressive springs, the springs will change its spring rate during cornering progressively. However, I just read an article that mentioned short springs like T4 springs can't really have real progressive effect as they aren't long enough to produce additional coil at its end. Therefore, may I know XRay T4 progressive springs really have progressive effect during cornering (I'm a noob in RC and can't really feel the progressive effect).?

In addition, in a very low grip technical on-road track, is it advisable to use 2.5-2.8 progressive springs for the front and 2.3-2.6 progressive springs for the rear as I heard that softer springs at the rear would produce more rear traction (as my car would sometimes sway off at the rear during mid corner and exit corner?

Look forward to your helpful advice and thank you.
They definitely have a progressive feel on the track. Most use the 2.5-2.8 on the front for more steering in the center of the corner. I wouldn't suggest that if your car is tippy on carpet. I personally don't ever like progressive on the rear but I do see Alex use them at times.

Either way, the progressive springs definitely work as advertised.
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Old 05-05-2017, 03:48 PM   #1168
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Progressive springs for me have felt ok. Some tracks like it better then others. For me, the car rolls onto the outside easily but mid corner or just before mid corner, you get into that stiffer rate, and the car induces a hint of a push. Sometimes this is remedied with a different front swaybar. But, it all depends on driving style or track layout. I will say it's not often you'll find anyone running progressives on the rear-typically it's a front tuning option for a bit more corner entry steering. Best way is to test it back to back and come up with your own results on how it works best for you.
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Old 05-05-2017, 05:18 PM   #1169
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Originally Posted by Boostinswifty38 View Post
Progressive springs for me have felt ok. Some tracks like it better then others. For me, the car rolls onto the outside easily but mid corner or just before mid corner, you get into that stiffer rate, and the car induces a hint of a push. Sometimes this is remedied with a different front swaybar. But, it all depends on driving style or track layout. I will say it's not often you'll find anyone running progressives on the rear-typically it's a front tuning option for a bit more corner entry steering. Best way is to test it back to back and come up with your own results on how it works best for you.
Thank you and R Dodge for the prompt reply. I just learnt from you guys that progressive spring is a tuning option for front steering. May I know if I'm running my T4'16 (with XRay 2.5-2.8 progressive springs in front) on a low traction on road track with multiple 180 degree corners, what XRay spring rate would you guys recommend so as to gain more rear traction and reduce the chances of my rear from spinning out? I will try out 2.3-2.6 progressive springs on my rear the next time when I run my car on the track, but still want to hear some advices from you guys. I suppose it should be a softer one for the rear isn't?

Also, I realized that when I loaded my battery, with 2.5-2.8 springs in front and 2.3-2.6 springs at my rear, the front seems to be softer than the rear when pressed down. Is that normal as the front springs are harder than the rear and my shocks are of 0 rebound.

Thank you.
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Old 05-05-2017, 05:58 PM   #1170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kakaru View Post
Thank you and R Dodge for the prompt reply. I just learnt from you guys that progressive spring is a tuning option for front steering. May I know if I'm running my T4'16 (with XRay 2.5-2.8 progressive springs in front) on a low traction on road track with multiple 180 degree corners, what XRay spring rate would you guys recommend so as to gain more rear traction and reduce the chances of my rear from spinning out? I will try out 2.3-2.6 progressive springs on my rear the next time when I run my car on the track, but still want to hear some advices from you guys. I suppose it should be a softer one for the rear isn't?

Also, I realized that when I loaded my battery, with 2.5-2.8 springs in front and 2.3-2.6 springs at my rear, the front seems to be softer than the rear when pressed down. Is that normal as the front springs are harder than the rear and my shocks are of 0 rebound.

Thank you.
I race on a medium size asphalt track with lots of sharp turns. When the grip is low I put 2.3-2.6 on the rear, as well as increase rear toe while using 2.5 - 2.8 progressive smj on the front. Works great for my driving style.
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