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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 03-03-2017, 08:16 AM   #1141
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Originally Posted by Steve89 View Post
So I've just rebuilt my t4'15 which I want to eventually convert to 16. My used kit I bought didn't come with the eccentric bushings. Does anyone know how many I should have? I found some on eBay just want to know how many I need to buy?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131510370965
The car uses 8 bushings. So to have all the bushings with all the adjustment possibilities, you need 4 of the sets you posted.

Although you can assemble the car with less if you don't use the same bushings in all positions. For example if you plan to run more rear toe in than standard and run arm sweep at the front you would only need half the sets.
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Old 03-03-2017, 05:14 PM   #1142
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Originally Posted by perzeus View Post
The car uses 8 bushings. So to have all the bushings with all the adjustment possibilities, you need 4 of the sets you posted.

Although you can assemble the car with less if you don't use the same bushings in all positions. For example if you plan to run more rear toe in than standard and run arm sweep at the front you would only need half the sets.
Thanks for that. I thought that was going to be the answer just didn't want to part with more $$$ haha.
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Old 03-16-2017, 08:12 PM   #1143
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What is the best way to quickly install the battery and secure it for racing. I do not want dnf's and also want a fast quick change system. I do not want to use tape, but would be open to a Velcro system or something else.
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Old 03-16-2017, 08:31 PM   #1144
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Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp View Post
What is the best way to quickly install the battery and secure it for racing. I do not want dnf's and also want a fast quick change system. I do not want to use tape, but would be open to a Velcro system or something else.
Reflex Racing has a system that might be right up your alley. Look under the T3/T4 upgrade parts, last item listed. Reflexracing.net
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Old 03-20-2017, 12:13 AM   #1145
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
Already covered really but I'd go:

2k diff
450 oil
1mm rear link, 1.5mm front

You'll have tons of traction once you've done that.
I'm also looking for more grip on a low grip track with some tight turns.
The 1mm and 1.5mm, is that on the inner side of the camber link right?

BTW, I'm already running with 1.6mm upperdeck and alu stand (in the middle), no screws on the bulkhead (with the spur).
-0,75mm offst hex, front 1.3 and rear 1.2 roll bar, front shock 2.5-2.8 rear 2.5
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Old 03-20-2017, 02:04 AM   #1146
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Originally Posted by IJsbier View Post
I'm also looking for more grip on a low grip track with some tight turns.
The 1mm and 1.5mm, is that on the inner side of the camber link right?

BTW, I'm already running with 1.6mm upperdeck and alu stand (in the middle), no screws on the bulkhead (with the spur).
-0,75mm offst hex, front 1.3 and rear 1.2 roll bar, front shock 2.5-2.8 rear 2.5
Yes that's the inner link shims. The things you listed should work well in low grip. Post the rest of your setup as well and there may be areas to improve.
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Old 03-20-2017, 12:53 PM   #1147
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My complete setup:

Gear diff: 900
Shock front: 25.-2.8, Rear: 2.5
Shock Oil: 450 (front and rear, holes probably default, just bought the T4 2015)
Anti Roll bar: front: 1.3mm, rear: 1.2 mm
Tires: Sorex 28 (pretty worn), I have Sorex 24 and a new set Sorex 28 on order
Roll center: eccentric bushings: all default (middle)
Bump steer shim: 2mm
Ride height: front 5.6mm, rear: 5.8mm
Camber link front: inner shim: 2mm, outer shim 2mm
Camber link rear: inner 1mm, outer shim: 4mm
HEX offset: -0,75 (Front and rear)
Downstop: front: 5.5mm, rear: 4.5mm
Front Toe out: 1 degree
Rear toe in: 3 (should be default, thinking of increasing the toe in)
Shock shim front: upper: 2mm, lower: 0mm
Shock shim rear: upper: 3mm, lower: 2mm
Roll center upper clamp, front, rear: 2
Motor mount flex: yes
Alu Stand: yes
Camber: front and rear: 1.8 degree, a little below 2
Shock position front: 2, rear: 3
Diff position front and rear: down

Note, that the temperature was pretty low yesterday (13 degree or so) the track had some small wet spots and quite some dirt (sand).
I had to be really careful when going on throttle, this winter I have been driving on carpet with much more grip, so I think I have to adapt my driving style as well, but yesterday it was way to tricky to drive. Looking forward to your advise.
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:40 PM   #1148
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IJsbier,
I don't believe you're going to find a lot more pace based off of setup changes alone. I would recommend trying lowering your lower pins all the way around, should help the car roll more.

But honestly, with those types of conditions, concentrating on tire prep is likely your best best. If it is dusty, try some wd-40 as part of the tire prep stage, it should help the tires stay more dust free.

Good luck.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:13 PM   #1149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IJsbier View Post
My complete setup:

Gear diff: 900
Shock front: 25.-2.8, Rear: 2.5
Shock Oil: 450 (front and rear, holes probably default, just bought the T4 2015)
Anti Roll bar: front: 1.3mm, rear: 1.2 mm
Tires: Sorex 28 (pretty worn), I have Sorex 24 and a new set Sorex 28 on order
Roll center: eccentric bushings: all default (middle)
Bump steer shim: 2mm
Ride height: front 5.6mm, rear: 5.8mm
Camber link front: inner shim: 2mm, outer shim 2mm
Camber link rear: inner 1mm, outer shim: 4mm
HEX offset: -0,75 (Front and rear)
Downstop: front: 5.5mm, rear: 4.5mm
Front Toe out: 1 degree
Rear toe in: 3 (should be default, thinking of increasing the toe in)
Shock shim front: upper: 2mm, lower: 0mm
Shock shim rear: upper: 3mm, lower: 2mm
Roll center upper clamp, front, rear: 2
Motor mount flex: yes
Alu Stand: yes
Camber: front and rear: 1.8 degree, a little below 2
Shock position front: 2, rear: 3
Diff position front and rear: down

Note, that the temperature was pretty low yesterday (13 degree or so) the track had some small wet spots and quite some dirt (sand).
I had to be really careful when going on throttle, this winter I have been driving on carpet with much more grip, so I think I have to adapt my driving style as well, but yesterday it was way to tricky to drive. Looking forward to your advise.
I would start with lowering your rear pins (lowering roll center). Use the .1 down inserts. Set camber to 2. And also move the diff to the upper position, at least in the rear.
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Old 03-20-2017, 11:59 PM   #1150
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Thanks for the advice. Why should I put the diff(s) in the upper position? According to the manual it should be in the lower position for low-medium traction tracks. When I tried the lower position last year (T3 2012) that didn't work very well, but I never understood why.

The WD-40 is a good tip, I have heard of guys using WD-40, never tried it myself, I normally only clean the tires with Brake Cleaner. I tried MR33 tire additive but that didn't help much.
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Old 03-21-2017, 02:09 AM   #1151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IJsbier View Post
My complete setup:

Gear diff: 900
Shock front: 25.-2.8, Rear: 2.5
Shock Oil: 450 (front and rear, holes probably default, just bought the T4 2015)
Anti Roll bar: front: 1.3mm, rear: 1.2 mm
Tires: Sorex 28 (pretty worn), I have Sorex 24 and a new set Sorex 28 on order
Roll center: eccentric bushings: all default (middle)
Bump steer shim: 2mm
Ride height: front 5.6mm, rear: 5.8mm
Camber link front: inner shim: 2mm, outer shim 2mm
Camber link rear: inner 1mm, outer shim: 4mm
HEX offset: -0,75 (Front and rear)
Downstop: front: 5.5mm, rear: 4.5mm
Front Toe out: 1 degree
Rear toe in: 3 (should be default, thinking of increasing the toe in)
Shock shim front: upper: 2mm, lower: 0mm
Shock shim rear: upper: 3mm, lower: 2mm
Roll center upper clamp, front, rear: 2
Motor mount flex: yes
Alu Stand: yes
Camber: front and rear: 1.8 degree, a little below 2
Shock position front: 2, rear: 3
Diff position front and rear: down

Note, that the temperature was pretty low yesterday (13 degree or so) the track had some small wet spots and quite some dirt (sand).
I had to be really careful when going on throttle, this winter I have been driving on carpet with much more grip, so I think I have to adapt my driving style as well, but yesterday it was way to tricky to drive. Looking forward to your advise.
That's a pretty good low-grip setup, you're definitely in the ballpark.

For more traction and overall grip:
- 400cst oil
- More droop (5 front 4 rear)
- New tyres
- Tyre additive (MR33 at 60degC, for 30 minutes if grip is low, reduce time when grip comes up)

For more traction (corner-exit grip):
- Front shocks up to hole 3
- Rear shocks down to hole 2
- LTCR shell (you don't say what you're running, but this shell gives the best traction)

You should get a decent improvement with those changes.

Dale
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:08 AM   #1152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IJsbier View Post
Thanks for the advice. Why should I put the diff(s) in the upper position? According to the manual it should be in the lower position for low-medium traction tracks. When I tried the lower position last year (T3 2012) that didn't work very well, but I never understood why.

The WD-40 is a good tip, I have heard of guys using WD-40, never tried it myself, I normally only clean the tires with Brake Cleaner. I tried MR33 tire additive but that didn't help much.
Putting the diffs in the upper position will move the center of gravity higher, which will give you a little more roll.

I'd also try decreasing your downstops to give you more droop.
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Old 03-21-2017, 10:04 AM   #1153
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Originally Posted by tbrymer View Post
Putting the diffs in the upper position will move the center of gravity higher, which will give you a little more roll.

I'd also try decreasing your downstops to give you more droop.
The CoG change isn't the significant factor; the driveshaft angle is what you're changing there.

The torque on the driveshaft makes it want to stay straight, which prevents the car pitching and transfers weight directly to the tyres instead. So more angle on the driveshafts will cause more of a violent weight transfer under acceleration and braking.

This will give more turn-in steering and more traction on exit, which can be good in low grip. The downside is that the car becomes more sensitive to throttle/brake inputs, so can snap suddenly.
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:26 PM   #1154
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Thanks for all tips and advice. I have something to try on Saturday.
Normally I race with an LTC2.0 body, last sunday I used my old Mazda 6 body to do some training.

When do I get more angle on my driveshafts? With high or low diff?
I think more angle with the dif in the up position because of the more roll and more of a violent weight transfer.
Last season I did prefer the up position, something to try again.

Would 350 oil be to thin? I have 350, I don't have I have 400 (yet).
I will add some droop, change the shocks, today I received new tyres. So almost good to go.
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Old 03-21-2017, 07:27 PM   #1155
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Blend some 350 and 450 to get 400.

But oils ain't oils. Your 450 could be as thin as someone else's 400 or thicker than another 500.

If it is kit 450, I'd leave it alone.

900 in your diff - any brand - does seem very light though.
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