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Old 03-17-2017, 02:10 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 01-28-2017, 07:30 PM   #1111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlBundy View Post
Two things come to mind, are you mounting the servo directly or have you used the rubber isolation tabs? Could you not have your end point adjustment on your transmitter set so your not crashing the steering blocks into the c-hubs and possibly tweaking something in a way that it doesn't return to center?
I'm using the orange alu counter sunk to mount the servo and I don't have rubber isolation tabs (I don't recall having this in the setup manual). All my EPA parameters in my transmitter are set to 100% and calibrated. I'm not sure on checking about any tweets Sir, and may I know how do I troubleshoot it in this case? Thank you.
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Old 01-28-2017, 07:31 PM   #1112
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You want these.

I'm already using these to mount my servo. This is just so strange.
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Old 01-28-2017, 08:23 PM   #1113
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You need to use the EPA adjustment in your transmitter so the servo isn't continuing to apply force once the maximum mechanical travel that the car has is reached.

In other words if you turn your transmitter all the way to the right, you should not hear your servo straining tr continueing the steering force. Same for the left.

You might also consider a servo saver.
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Old 01-28-2017, 09:11 PM   #1114
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Originally Posted by AlBundy View Post
You need to use the EPA adjustment in your transmitter so the servo isn't continuing to apply force once the maximum mechanical travel that the car has is reached.

In other words if you turn your transmitter all the way to the right, you should not hear your servo straining tr continueing the steering force. Same for the left.

You might also consider a servo saver.
If I reduce my steering percentage in my transmitter's EPA, wouldn't that also greatly reduce my steering as my current steering is pretty less low.

In terms of getting a new low profile servo (which may have the same issue), which brand and model would you guys recommend. Some guys at my hobby shop said that Sanwa servo is good and value for money, and I have seen some professional racers from YouTube uses Sanwa servo in their XRay T4 and other cars such as BD7 and Trf419X.
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Old 01-28-2017, 10:20 PM   #1115
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Ok, let me try here. Your car has a certain amount of mechanical steering limited by the steering blocks hitting the c hub. Your servo should provide more movement than is nessisary to have the steering block contact the c block, so when that occurs and your servo continues to power its self you are creating tweak, and could even damage the servo's internal gears. You dial back the EPA so that the servo no longer forces the steering block into the c hub but just stops shy of contacting it.

It could be a worse case senario here that you are jumping teeth in the servo explaining why your steering doesn't return to straight on.

Last edited by AlBundy; 01-29-2017 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 01-29-2017, 05:32 AM   #1116
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Originally Posted by AlBundy View Post
Ok, let me try here. Your car has a certain amount of mechanical steering limited by the steering blocks hitting the c hub. Your servo should provide more movement than is nessisary to have the steering block contact the c block, so when that occurs and your servo continues to power its self you are creating tweak, and could even damage the servo's internal gears. You dial back the EPA so that the servo no longer forces the steering block into the c hub but just stops shy of contacting it.

It could be a worse case senario here that you are jumping teeth in the servo explaining why you steering doesn't return to straight on.
Thanks AlBundy. I just rebuilt my steering links, servo link, servo mount and reduced my EPA's steering amount to less than 100%, based on your advice. My servo doesn't seems to tweak as much as yesterday (just a little movement which is not noticeable). I will refine my EPA's steering again and thereafter, tune my car using the system setup kit. The steering blocks doesn't seems like touching the C-hubs.

Btw, what is the steering angle (in terms of degree) that a T4 2016 usually achieve?

Thank you.
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Old 01-29-2017, 07:04 AM   #1117
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Listen to Al Bundy. He scored 4 touchdowns in one game.
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Old 01-29-2017, 07:18 AM   #1118
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Listen to Al Bundy. He scored 4 touchdowns in one game.
Yeah. He helps me to solve my issue and I learnt something new from him. Newbies like me always face issues and guys like you and AlBundy are very helpful in explaining and providing precious advices.

Once again, thank you very much AlBundy.
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Old 01-29-2017, 08:06 AM   #1119
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That's ok, I too am a newbie after a 25 year break from my child hood.

Learning new things and being able to pass on what I have been shown or learned is what this hobby is all about.

I want to say 24 to 26 degrees is what you should be looking for for the front steering. Be sure they match left to right so the car stays balanced.
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Old 01-29-2017, 09:03 AM   #1120
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Quote:
The steering blocks doesn't seems like touching the C-hubs.
The steering blocks should never hit the hubs, especially with the plastic bellcranks. The 6mm spacer at the center of the bellcranks cross piece will hit the cranks first. Either way just tune EPA so that there is no binding against that piece.

Yes about 26 degrees.
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Old 01-29-2017, 09:24 AM   #1121
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Originally Posted by AlBundy View Post
That's ok, I too am a newbie after a 25 year break from my child hood.

Learning new things and being able to pass on what I have been shown or learned is what this hobby is all about.

I want to say 24 to 26 degrees is what you should be looking for for the front steering. Be sure they match left to right so the car stays balanced.
Cool. I start to love this forum. Hahaha
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Old 01-29-2017, 09:27 AM   #1122
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The steering blocks should never hit the hubs, especially with the plastic bellcranks. The 6mm spacer at the center of the bellcranks cross piece will hit the cranks first. Either way just tune EPA so that there is no binding against that piece.

Yes about 26 degrees.
Thanks erchn. I have hopped up most of the T4 2016 parts and I'm using the orange alu bell cranks. I have tuned my EPA steering so that the steering blocks will not touch the C hubs. Will test it out during my next visit to the track. :-)
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Old 02-04-2017, 09:48 PM   #1123
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So I just bought myself a second hand T4'15, does anyone know the exact parts list to get it up to spec with the T4'16 car? Or even better if its possible to get it as far as the T4'17?

Apologies on the thread jump, did a lengthy search and couldn't find anything useful.
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Old 02-04-2017, 10:25 PM   #1124
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To get to a 16, I know you will need chassis, upper deck, and the rear/front suspension mounts for the ARS. I think the only change in the upper deck was for easier access to pinion set screw.
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Old 02-05-2017, 02:51 AM   #1125
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So I've found to go from the 16 to the 17 you need the below:

- Strong & Light Bumper
- Steering Posts
- Layshaft Bulkhead
- Motor Mount
- Motor Mount brace
- Shims for steering and layshaft bulkheads
- Alu Servo Mount
- Graphite Servo Mount Plate
- Graphite stiffener
- Upper and lower decks

So going by that I should only really need the ARS kit.
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