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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 11-08-2016, 12:21 PM   #1051
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Curious your issue with orca.. I dont run their power systems but Picked up two of the 6200 infinite ultra packs sept 2015, i beat the crap out of them practicing mod weekly. Capacity has dropped but they havent swollen. Seems like the trinity and big reedy's are popular for stock though
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Old 11-08-2016, 12:30 PM   #1052
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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
This isn't really T4 specific but I am just getting into onroad with a T4 and I am wondering if someone can recommend a decent lipo to use for 17.5 onroad. I was looking at promatch and SMC. Ive had Orcas that I used in offroad and I didn't have much luck with them. Thanks.
The Team Powers 6400 and 7800 are great packs for stock, depending on your weight needs. Both are low 1's for IR, and are ROAR approved.

http://www.teampowersusa.net/product...odified-racing

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Old 11-14-2016, 05:52 AM   #1053
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I am running 13.5T (106 spur/47 pinion... 64P). I am wondering can I switch to 48P gears? It looks like the largest 48P spur is 90T. So I am wondering will 90/40 combo work as far as meshing properly in the T4.
What effect will changing to 48P gears have? I just wanted to do it because they are easier to set mesh and when I hit things with the front of the car the motor moves slightly and then messes up the teeth on the spur too easily.
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Old 11-14-2016, 06:01 AM   #1054
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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
I am running 13.5T (106 spur/47 pinion... 64P). I am wondering can I switch to 48P gears? It looks like the largest 48P spur is 90T. So I am wondering will 90/40 combo work as far as meshing properly in the T4.
What effect will changing to 48P gears have? I just wanted to do it because they are easier to set mesh and when I hit things with the front of the car the motor moves slightly and then messes up the teeth on the spur too easily.
A 90t will stick through the bottom of the chassis.
Can't remember if it's an 85 or 86t spur that is level with the bottom of the chassis.

They are harder to damage, which is why I use them on my TC, but they don't allow such a fine adjustment of gearing.
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Old 11-14-2016, 09:54 AM   #1055
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A 90t will stick through the bottom of the chassis.
Can't remember if it's an 85 or 86t spur that is level with the bottom of the chassis.

They are harder to damage, which is why I use them on my TC, but they don't allow such a fine adjustment of gearing.
So are the 48P bigger than the same tooth count in 64P? cause I have a 106 spur (64P) on it now and it doesn't stick through the bottom of the chasis.

Another thing I just thought about. I sheared off the plastic outdrive on the front spool this weekend so I ordered the xray steel front outdrives but you have to use the blades instead of just the pin of the dogbone end going inside the outdrive. When I got the car used the previous owner installed ECS's. Am I able to push the pin out on those to install the plastic blades? Or are the blades flexible enough to bend them and get the pin in without removing it?
I really like the xray stuff but it sucks no hobby shops around me carry any of their stuff. I sheared off the outdrive in the first race of the day. So I just disassembled half of the ecs and left the axle part in and finished out the day with 3WD. . Finished 3rd place.
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Last edited by Slapjack; 11-14-2016 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 11-14-2016, 10:05 AM   #1056
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The blades will just stretch over. Install one side and press the other on.
You will want to get a few spares as they tend to go missing if you hit stuff.
They are the same ones used for the rear axles.
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:03 AM   #1057
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So are the 48P bigger than the same tooth count in 64P? cause I have a 106 spur (64P) on it now and it doesn't stick through the bottom of the chasis.
64p are 3/4 the size of a 48p gear with the same tooth count. So a 106t 64p would be roughly equal to an 80t 48p.
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:10 AM   #1058
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The blades will just stretch over. Install one side and press the other on.
You will want to get a few spares as they tend to go missing if you hit stuff.
They are the same ones used for the rear axles.
Thanks for reminding me. Just ordered some and a couple arms and a spur gear. Do arms break very often? I am running hard plastics for everything. Id assume the graphite ones would be more brittle and more prone to breakage than the hard plastic? this weekend was my first TC race (first on-road type car ever actually). It hit the boards a couple times til I got the hang of it. Also, not used to bodies having such an effect on how the car runs (with buggies you just cut on the lines and slap it on). It took me awhile to get the body so it wasn't rubbing in turns and hitting the tires, etc.. Probably shoulda run a practice body the first time. Took me 6-8 hrs to layout and airbrush my body and 4 minutes to destroy it
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:17 AM   #1059
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64p are 3/4 the size of a 48p gear with the same tooth count. So a 106t 64p would be roughly equal to an 80t 48p.
Thanks. Glad this was mentioned, cause I was about the get the 90T.
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:15 PM   #1060
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I dont think ive ever broke an arm on my t4. Chubs and steering blocks for sure though.
I run hard arms not graphite. Might be different then ha. I cant tell the difference on track.
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Old 11-15-2016, 01:29 AM   #1061
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...I sheared off the plastic outdrive on the front spool this weekend so I ordered the xray steel front outdrives but you have to use the blades instead of just the pin of the dogbone end going inside the outdrive....
If you want to make the plastic outdrives stronger you could wrap some cell tape tightly around them.
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:15 AM   #1062
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I bought the A-plus outdrives for my xray and couldn't be happier!
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:08 PM   #1063
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I bought the A-plus outdrives for my xray and couldn't be happier!
Damn it. I totally forgot about a+ and spec r parts. I was in such a rush to make sure I had them for next weekend. Prolly would have been cheaper than $42 for the X-ray version of steel outdrive a too.
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:36 PM   #1064
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I bought the A-plus outdrives for my xray and couldn't be happier!
how is the a+ quality and fittings in general? I'm planning to get the a+ pulley and servo arm myself.
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Old 11-15-2016, 08:21 PM   #1065
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how is the a+ quality and fittings in general? I'm planning to get the a+ pulley and servo arm myself.
The fit and quality is great. I've had mine on for almost a year now.
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