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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 09-05-2016, 09:07 AM   #946
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I personally run the t3 hard front bumper on my car with the taller plastic standoffs for it too. Adds weight to the car to make weight for the class (sedan), and gives the car more front weight.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:23 AM   #947
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Do you know if this is the same thickness?
I've ran the EAM front bumper on the T4 and the A800 without any issues so I would think the BSR would fit the T4 as well .
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:25 AM   #948
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Originally Posted by Boostinswifty38 View Post
I personally run the t3 hard front bumper on my car with the taller plastic standoffs for it too. Adds weight to the car to make weight for the class (sedan), and gives the car more front weight.
Weight in the front is the worst place to add weight to make weight btw.
Tho I find it odd your under weight in the T4 . I was having to get creative to attempt to get it light without any success .
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:28 AM   #949
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I need to experiment more with the weight settings, but curious, why is it the worst? Perhaps this is something i need to work out and change more.

Now that weight is 1350, i have light motor, light battery, aluminum screws, spool, graphite arms, etc. i added weights to the avid chassis yesterday to get the car back up to weight-biggest difference was the battery being tons lighter.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:34 AM   #950
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Originally Posted by Boostinswifty38 View Post
I need to experiment more with the weight settings, but curious, why is it the worst? Perhaps this is something i need to work out and change more.

Now that weight is 1350, i have light motor, light battery, aluminum screws, spool, graphite arms, etc. i added weights to the avid chassis yesterday to get the car back up to weight-biggest difference was the battery being tons lighter.
Got ya . running stock we were still trying to make the big packs balance out in a light car, with no luck getting it below a 1372. Tho I fixed that issue by going to a A800 . lol now back to adding weight to hit min
As far as the weight , any weight place in front or behind the wheels makes a more aggressive approach to tuning .
By adding weight in front of the front wheels it adds 2x as much weight to the front bias (by transfering more weight from the rear ) and in our findings on carpet (better testing ground for setup changes ) adding any weight to the front of the car takes away steering in faster areas of the track (over 5mph) and makes the car slower change dirrections several top drivers will agree
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:04 AM   #951
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Lol fuck me. Thats exactly the issues ive had. Guess i need to order a different bumper thats firm and the lower stands. Recommendations?

I had ran heavier packs and was always at 1380. Yesterday car alone was 1286. Minus body. Body weight averages around 89 grams, so depending on which body i run, i add body clips or weights. Same with if i swap front gear diff or spool. Add layshaft screws, or whatnot. Its always a tradeoff, but i do my best to maintain that min weight.
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:32 AM   #952
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Lol Thats exactly the issues ive had. Guess i need to order a different bumper thats firm and the lower stands. Recommendations?
Eam has one . actually 2 a solid firm bumper and one that has cutouts .
I like the solid bumper since I do but things often
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:37 AM   #953
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Sometimes bumping is the name of the game. Especially on our local "grinder" tracks. People and rails just get in my way, so push to pass! I need to get that bumper. Ill scale my car later and see bias with the bumper on and without.
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:01 PM   #954
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Sorry guys, cant contribute towards bumpers. I have a setup query, hopefully someone can explain. I got my 2016 kit about 2 months ago, took it to the track for initial run, built it to the book standard with the exception of 5k rear diff oil, 2.6 f springs and 2 deg rear toe. Im about half a second / lap off the fast guys, which I'm not to worried about as I'm a bit rusty after a 5 year sebbatical. What I felt is im lacking mid and exit on power cornering speed, seems to be pushing as is. I then decided to download quite a few setup sheets, Bruno, Hagberg, etc and noticed a consistant change both and others are employing, the front susp eccentric bushings. They seem to go with in the FF 1 out and lowest, FR 0,5 lowest out position, that imposes anti-dive from what I understand. Why on earth do most of them prefer this???. I have changed mine to this setup, not tested as yet and not quite sure if this will help solving my cornering dilema, can anyone please explain this. Oh, I'm running on outdoor asphalt track, med traction.

Last edited by rcdreamer; 09-06-2016 at 04:29 AM.
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:36 PM   #955
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this is the bumper I use, fits well with the T4, harder than the stock and wider at the front as well, thus no need for extra padding.Xray T4 2016-tb03-bumper.jpg
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:31 AM   #956
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Originally Posted by rcdreamer View Post
Sorry guys, cant contribute towards bumpers. I have a setup query, hopefully someone can explain. I got my 2016 kit about 2 months ago, took it to the track for initial run, built it to the book standard with the exception of 5k rear diff oil, 2.6 f springs and 2 deg rear toe. Im about half a second / lap off the fast guys, which I'm not to worried about as I'm a bit rusty after a 5 year sebbatical. What I felt is im lacking mid and exit on power cornering speed, seems to be pushing as is. I then decided to download quite a few setup sheets, Bruno, Hagberg, etc and noticed a consistant change both and others are employing, the front susp eccentric bushings. They seem to go with in the FF 1 out and lowest, FR 0,5 lowest out position, that imposes anti-dive from what I understand. Why on earth do most of them prefer this???. I have changed mine to this setup, not tested as yet and not quite sure if this will help solving my cornering dilema, can anyone please explain this. Oh, I'm running on outdoor asphalt track, med traction.
That's what I run as well on both my modified car and my stock car on asphalt. With that lower front arm setting the car simply puts down a lot more front grip and the car turns a lot harder.

The lower arms basically allow the front of the car to roll more and gets that outside tire to dig in harder.

From my experience the increased width of the front end makes the car more stable and easier to drive, however I found it takes away a tiny bit of grip.

You'll probably need to add back a little more rear toe once you make that change as you'll probably find the car to be loose on power.

I would start with the 1mm down and out in the front, 2* camber all around, 2.5* toe in in the rear, standard rear lower pin height, 1* toe out in the front, 1.3 sway bar front, 1.2 sway bar rear.
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Old 09-06-2016, 12:35 PM   #957
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Originally Posted by rcdreamer View Post
Sorry guys, cant contribute towards bumpers. I have a setup query, hopefully someone can explain. I got my 2016 kit about 2 months ago, took it to the track for initial run, built it to the book standard with the exception of 5k rear diff oil, 2.6 f springs and 2 deg rear toe. Im about half a second / lap off the fast guys, which I'm not to worried about as I'm a bit rusty after a 5 year sebbatical. What I felt is im lacking mid and exit on power cornering speed, seems to be pushing as is. I then decided to download quite a few setup sheets, Bruno, Hagberg, etc and noticed a consistant change both and others are employing, the front susp eccentric bushings. They seem to go with in the FF 1 out and lowest, FR 0,5 lowest out position, that imposes anti-dive from what I understand. Why on earth do most of them prefer this???. I have changed mine to this setup, not tested as yet and not quite sure if this will help solving my cornering dilema, can anyone please explain this. Oh, I'm running on outdoor asphalt track, med traction.
For outdoor low-med traction, deffiently follow the Alex and Bruno setups. Work very well.

Moving the front pins to their positions does a number of things.
It lowers the front roll centre quite a bit over stock.
It widens the front end, but by the pins, which in turn also moves the lower front shocks out a bit, making them behave a bit stiffer.
It adds anti-dive (0.5°), and arm sweep (also 0.5°).

All these factors together help to give the car more front end, whilst also more stable on the brakes.

One thing I haven't yet tried, but can be considered, is that if you don't want/need to run anti dive, run the same inserts, but then add 0.3mm of washers under the FF block to raise it back up. Then it is sweep only.

If your struggling with mid to exit steering. Then try some of the following over the kit setup.
1mm front camber link shim - gives more steering all round
Rear shocks to hole 2 - more mid rotation. I hate driving the car in hole 3.. car feels broken to me!
Remove the layshaft screws - gives the car more all round grip, but also adds steering... adding the screws actually locks the rear of the car down in my experience. There is a reason why almost none of the outdoor settings use those screws 😉

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Old 09-06-2016, 01:00 PM   #958
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Good explanation Ed. Locally we've been running narrow hexes with the wider front pin setup, you keep many of the benefits mentioned, but it wakes the car up a bit.
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Old 09-06-2016, 03:00 PM   #959
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Good explanation Ed. Locally we've been running narrow hexes with the wider front pin setup, you keep many of the benefits mentioned, but it wakes the car up a bit.
Good point. Totally forgot about the narrow hexes
. Really do help to grip the car up, both in front and rear.
Even with the wider pin position, car actually ends up slightly narrower with the narrow hexes, so you naturally get more bite anyway.
Wider pins (FF 1.0 down&out, FR 0.5 down&out) adds about 0.9mm to width, whereas hexes take away 1.5mm

I've only really used kit hexes on the rear on carpet, otherwise it's narrow all round everywhere.

Alex terms them standard hexes for good reason now 😂.
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:15 PM   #960
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Thanks so much guys, great explanations, makes so much sense. I have a pair of narrow hexes which I will add to the front. Local supplier has run out, will back order a pair for the rears. I would hazard a guess and add that with the wider front suspension it theorectically reduces drive shaft length which further wakes up the front end.
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