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Old 03-17-2017, 02:10 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Last edit by: R Dodge
Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 08-11-2016, 02:48 AM   #901
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Thanks...
Does anyone order xRay parts from RcMart? Just wondering if the parts are authentic xray and if shipping times are decent since they are in HK. Prices look good but didn't want to end up with knock off stuff or something.
We only get our Xray parts from authorized distributors, as per other parts others seem to have explained it with them being "Aftermarket" parts where other manufacturers release parts that Xray do not have. We offer EMS and normal air postage for you to choose from
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:34 AM   #902
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Hi All!

I have been running 17.5 on asphalt this summer. Upon post race inspection today, I noticed one of the belt teeth on the front belt was half gone. Big deal or no? (White belts)

Also, found a cut on the rear belt...topside, down to the belting strands...so put a touch of CA in there .

What is the general consensus about when to replace belts...when they just completely fail and fall off the car?

Thanks in advance!
I'll be the contrarian here. I'd say changing belts every time you chip a tooth is a waste. Playing hurt is one reason we went to HTD drives over chains in the first place. The teeth flex and compress as they ride over the sprocket, survive slippage, and have small rocks and debris run through it all the time. A well worn belt will have missing teeth, be significantly stretched out, and have some twist from irregular wear yet still not slip and have no significant loss in power transfer.

From an engineering point of view, you are more likely to have slippage problems from initial stretch of a new belt than loss because of a single damaged tooth.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:24 AM   #903
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Every picture I see of a t4, they have the floating steering mount installed but are still using the chassis mounted steering.

What would be the situation for using the floating mount? What is the conventional wisdom for what it changes?
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:49 AM   #904
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This is how I look at it .
If their is chassis flex (which there is ) the relation between the servo and steering parts change wile car is flexing thru the corner when steering posts are attached to chassis .
When using the floating mount the servo and linkage are moving at the same time in the same dirrection no matter the chassis flex, but instead as it flexes it changes steering angles more dirrectly. Kinda hard to test on the bench really but able to be felt in the track under corner loads .
As for not using the floating mount but keeping it installed ... Its to make a quicker change if you decide to swap (it's already there) faster in the pits makes you faster on the track
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:09 AM   #905
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Just wondering if XRay or other RC parts in Hong Kong's hobby shop (mostly in Mong Kok) will be cheaper than Singapore. For example, a XRay front low friction belt (the white color one) cost about SGD$16+, and a set of RIDE touring rubber tyres cost SGD$45 in Singapore.

Any Hong Kong racers around to provide inputs?
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:29 PM   #906
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Originally Posted by PACaSteel View Post
I'll be the contrarian here. I'd say changing belts every time you chip a tooth is a waste. Playing hurt is one reason we went to HTD drives over chains in the first place. The teeth flex and compress as they ride over the sprocket, survive slippage, and have small rocks and debris run through it all the time. A well worn belt will have missing teeth, be significantly stretched out, and have some twist from irregular wear yet still not slip and have no significant loss in power transfer.

From an engineering point of view, you are more likely to have slippage problems from initial stretch of a new belt than loss because of a single damaged tooth.
Thanks to all, and this other point of view. I replaced the white belts with the kit blacks, and noticed that bit more friction.

Hard decision! Especially because the voodoo placebo effect could go either way...me thinking the white belts are faster so thinking I'm faster...or thinking they are about to fail and need to be replaced so driving more conservatively.

Thanks for all the thoughts!

Last edited by JeffofSpace; 08-11-2016 at 07:30 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 08-14-2016, 01:37 AM   #907
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Originally Posted by Kakaru View Post
Just wondering if XRay or other RC parts in Hong Kong's hobby shop (mostly in Mong Kok) will be cheaper than Singapore. For example, a XRay front low friction belt (the white color one) cost about SGD$16+, and a set of RIDE touring rubber tyres cost SGD$45 in Singapore.

Any Hong Kong racers around to provide inputs?
Don't know about belts but premounts definitely cheaper than Singapore
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Old 08-14-2016, 07:26 PM   #908
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Hi all, a question regarding the progressive spring (2.5-2.8 or 2.3-2.6). Do they have top side and bottom side? Side view of the progressive spring shows that distance between coils varies. i.e. from wider to narrower or the other way round depends on which side the spring is standing on. Or I can just ignore that?
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:36 PM   #909
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Originally Posted by Kakaru View Post
Just wondering if XRay or other RC parts in Hong Kong's hobby shop (mostly in Mong Kok) will be cheaper than Singapore. For example, a XRay front low friction belt (the white color one) cost about SGD$16+, and a set of RIDE touring rubber tyres cost SGD$45 in Singapore.

Any Hong Kong racers around to provide inputs?
Visited Action Hobbies, Hong Kong many times as well as visited the Xray shop in Singapore (forgot the name of the mall) twice. In the end, bought my xray parts at Action Hobbies and not in Singapore. Action hobbies is a lot cheaper and also stocks a lot of xray aftermarket products.

Also, best to buy in cash as they sometimes give discounts for cash payments. If you purchase via credit card, there will be a 3 - 5% surcharge I think (that was 3-4 years go when i paid via card). Just shopped there in June and paid in cash.

Many parts in Action hobbies but not complete (sway bar and spring sets not complete).
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Old 08-18-2016, 09:05 PM   #910
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What is the best way to clean out the diff oil to replace it with a different weight?
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:26 PM   #911
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What is the best way to clean out the diff oil to replace it with a different weight?
Dump out the old, take gears out, spray out everything with motor spray, replace oil and put it back together.
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:38 PM   #912
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IMO, taking out the o-rings is the most important. I think it was implied above, just clarifying. There's really not a better way than that.
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Old 08-19-2016, 01:30 AM   #913
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What is the best way to clean out the diff oil to replace it with a different weight?
I use a cheap toothbrush to get all the oil out of the gear teeth. I don't like spraying plastic with chemicals as it can weaken the material.
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Old 08-19-2016, 05:24 PM   #914
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Dump out the old, take gears out, spray out everything with motor spray, replace oil and put it back together.
Just don't use motor spray on the orings. Makes them swell.
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:34 PM   #915
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Rubbing alcohol and an aircompressor works prettywell.
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