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Old 03-17-2017, 02:10 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 08-08-2016, 02:00 AM   #886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
What position are ppl running the front and rear diff in for carpet tracks? By position I mean where the tab piece sits in he bulkhead notches. Also what diff fluid works well on carpet?
Diffs in high position (so tab is under the diff).

Front belt normally 2 positions tighter than centre.
Rear belt 2 positions looser than centre.
But it does vary with belt age.

Diff oil depends on the amount of grip. On the black ETS carpet at club level (so medium grip) I run 3k. Higher grip, run thicker oil.
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:35 AM   #887
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
Diffs in high position (so tab is under the diff).

Front belt normally 2 positions tighter than centre.
Rear belt 2 positions looser than centre.
But it does vary with belt age.

Diff oil depends on the amount of grip. On the black ETS carpet at club level (so medium grip) I run 3k. Higher grip, run thicker oil.
Thanks...
Does anyone order xRay parts from RcMart? Just wondering if the parts are authentic xray and if shipping times are decent since they are in HK. Prices look good but didn't want to end up with knock off stuff or something.
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:51 AM   #888
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RCMart sells authentic Xray parts, as well as knockoff brands. Haven't ordered from them in a while but I always did get parts in a timely manner.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:27 AM   #889
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RCMart sells authentic Xray parts, as well as knockoff brands. Haven't ordered from them in a while but I always did get parts in a timely manner.
But the parts listed as xray parts are actually xray parts? By knock offs, I meant like they aren't selling no-name parts listed as xray parts?
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:49 AM   #890
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But the parts listed as xray parts are actually xray parts? By knock offs, I meant like they aren't selling no-name parts listed as xray parts?
RCMart sells Authentic Xray parts. The parts are cheaper in Asia and therefore the lower prices compared to the US.
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:24 AM   #891
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Thanks...
Does anyone order xRay parts from RcMart? Just wondering if the parts are authentic xray and if shipping times are decent since they are in HK. Prices look good but didn't want to end up with knock off stuff or something.
Yes, they are authentic. Ship time with the slowest rate is usually around two weeks in my experience.
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:03 PM   #892
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:05 PM   #893
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Yes, they are authentic. Ship time with the slowest rate is usually around two weeks in my experience.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:00 PM   #894
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RCMart sells authentic Xray parts, as well as knockoff brands. Haven't ordered from them in a while but I always did get parts in a timely manner.
I think the term you mean - and should use - is aftermarket parts.

"knock-off" would infer they are labelled, marketed and give the appearance to fool the consumer into thinking they are the proprietary item.

that's definitely not the case. Aftermarket parts like Arrowmax, Arena et all are alternative options - not knock offs.
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Old 08-08-2016, 07:24 PM   #895
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Originally Posted by cplus View Post
I think the term you mean - and should use - is aftermarket parts.

"knock-off" would infer they are labelled, marketed and give the appearance to fool the consumer into thinking they are the proprietary item.

that's definitely not the case. Aftermarket parts like Arrowmax, Arena et all are alternative options - not knock offs.
I agree. However, while we're being pedantic, the word you're looking for is "imply". "Infer" is what the listener does, "imply" is what the speaker does.
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Old 08-10-2016, 05:59 PM   #896
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Hi All!

I have been running 17.5 on asphalt this summer. Upon post race inspection today, I noticed one of the belt teeth on the front belt was half gone. Big deal or no? (White belts)

Also, found a cut on the rear belt...topside, down to the belting strands...so put a touch of CA in there .

What is the general consensus about when to replace belts...when they just completely fail and fall off the car?

Thanks in advance!

Last edited by JeffofSpace; 08-10-2016 at 06:01 PM. Reason: Clarity
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Old 08-10-2016, 07:38 PM   #897
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Hi All!

I have been running 17.5 on asphalt this summer. Upon post race inspection today, I noticed one of the belt teeth on the front belt was half gone. Big deal or no? (White belts)

Also, found a cut on the rear belt...topside, down to the belting strands...so put a touch of CA in there .

What is the general consensus about when to replace belts...when they just completely fail and fall off the car?

Thanks in advance!
Honestly... I'd replace them both now. They will probably last ok with a 17.5, but why loose a run when they break if you can clearly see they aren't in top condition now?
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:30 PM   #898
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White belts tend to wear more quickly so will need replacement more often - they are more flexible

Once damaged, torn tooth or crack in the belt - best to replace otherwise you may end up replacing pulleys/diff cases too!
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:49 PM   #899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffofSpace View Post
Hi All!

I have been running 17.5 on asphalt this summer. Upon post race inspection today, I noticed one of the belt teeth on the front belt was half gone. Big deal or no? (White belts)

Also, found a cut on the rear belt...topside, down to the belting strands...so put a touch of CA in there .

What is the general consensus about when to replace belts...when they just completely fail and fall off the car?

Thanks in advance!
With missing teeth I would definitely replace them. Running on asphalt is much harder on belts than indoors on carpet. I replace them when they show excessive wear, or before a big race.


Quote:
Originally Posted by WagwanBumba View Post
White belts tend to wear more quickly so will need replacement more often - they are more flexible

Once damaged, torn tooth or crack in the belt - best to replace otherwise you may end up replacing pulleys/diff cases too!
The white belts last longer for the majority of people per Hagberg and Wahl, as well as in my past experience.
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:52 PM   #900
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double post.
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