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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 05-15-2016, 05:48 PM   #766
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Durability, and I imagine it frees up the rear with less flex at the hub.
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Old 05-25-2016, 12:07 AM   #767
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Default Bump bump

Bump for a couple of new products:


RSD162 T4 SKD-11 Tool Steel Blade-less spool cups.

and


RSD161 T4 and BD7 2016 30mm Fan Mount
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Old 05-25-2016, 01:12 AM   #768
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Never mind.....
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:06 AM   #769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Bump for a couple of new products:


RSD162 T4 SKD-11 Tool Steel Blade-less spool cups.

and


RSD161 T4 and BD7 2016 30mm Fan Mount
Looking forward to getting the fan mount. When will they be available for purchase?
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:11 AM   #770
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They are in stock and shipping
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:28 AM   #771
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Originally Posted by bLamey470 View Post
No I understand that but I've been noticing more of the team drivers running the aluminum C-Hubs for the ARS set-up and wondered why or what that gives you
I've been told that alum chubs on ARS can give more consistent rear grip than the composite. Specially Outdoor racing with hot temperature can make composite ars chub become "softer" that can hurt the rear grip
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Old 06-04-2016, 04:13 AM   #772
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I'm almost done building my T4 (a 2015 version which I got unbuilt) and thought I would share my impressions. Once again I find myself agreeing with Lonestar : Xray t4'15

Hinge pins : They are not absolutely straight. Not to the point where you would consider replacing them, but still not perfect. In the process of polishing them, in chucked them in my dremel and in a few cases you could feel quite a little vibration. The chuck of my dremel is not at fault because the hinge pins from my previous car (T.O.P.) spin dead true every time.

Screws : first off there are several brands/types of screws depending on the step of the build, even though they are of the same dimensions. For instance the M3x6 screws for hinge pin hangers are different from the M3x6 screws they give you to attach the bulkheads. When you look at the underside of the car, you clearly see that there are several types of screws. I find it annoying. Was is so hard to choose one type ? Now if you are the slightliest bit of a perfectionist (as most of us are, I suppose) you have to pay attention to which screw goes where when wrenching on the car. Just silly.

A second issue with screws is their length : they are too short in quite a few places. Shock towers, hinge pin hangers, bellcrank bridge come to mind. So again I tried to swap them where I could, which is not easy if you don't have Xray screws laying around (for example, the button heads have this small cone under the head that I wanted to keep.)

One last issue with screws : Some of the button heads had the head visibly out-of-round, which bothers me to no end. When you screw them to attach the top deck you just know it's going to be prone to tweaking. VERY annoying.

That said, the steel from the screws seems hard and they feel good when you tighten them down, assuming you have good hex tools.

A-arms hangers : The rear split blocks are not marked for orientation. I assume they can be mounted on either side, but when you look at the square hole where the plastic pill goes, the chamfers are not quite of the same depth from one side to the other. So it had me wondering from which side I should insert the pill. Not a huge deal, but definitely something I could have done without.

Rear hub carriers : there is 0.15mm of axial play on the outer hinge pin. Nothing a shim can't take care of, but again I could have done without it. Additionally, I would have liked to get two M3x4 set screws to put in the unused camberlink hole. Everyone knows you have to do this, was is so hard to include those two set screws in the box ? Also, why not include crush tubes between the wheel bearings ? I had to buy some from a 3rd party.

The diff : it builds okay but the outdrives are quite bound up by the O-rings. Plus, there remains a bit of grittiness/notchiness when it's closed, although I am pretty sure it will go away after running the car. Still, not perfect. (Yes, I know how to build a diff properly, thank you.)

Servo mount : why is it not perfectly centered ? I don't think it hinders the handling to have it offset by a millimeter or two (after all even the asymmetric steering geometry on the T1 was never a problem), but it makes the thing look like and afterthought. Also, I would have liked the outer servo post to be keyed, so that it would be pefectly straight.

Ball studs : again, they are too short for my liking, in quite a few places. This is even more worrying than screws, for obvious reasons.

Bumper : they give you this little plastic bit that screws on top and prevents the front of the chassis from cracking under impact. Was in so hard to mold it in a way that the marks from the moulding were hidden ? I don't mind too much that the thing looks like an afterthough (which it is, of course), but the three shiny circles right on the upper face of the part ? Please ! Better yet, just mould a new damn top bumper plate that includes that small piece of plastic, shows the xray logo as it was supposed to, and uses two countersunk screws instead of the button heads. Regarding the foam itself, it is too soft for my liking, but it is very light as well, so I am willing to let that pass.

The manual : it is not perfectly clear at times. For instance I had to look at the picture on the cover to take a guess at the orientation of the orange part of the servo mount. It would also help if the manual wasn't so encumbered by the advertising of options parts, in-between build steps. Why not put all of this stuff at the end ? All in all, still a pretty good manual, but not great.

I have yet to build the shocks or the turnbuckles, so I will refrain from commenting.

Belt tensioner, plastic outdrives, plastic wheelbase shims : I put these in the same category since they are features which I knew of before buying the car ; so I can't really complain and act disappointed. But still, as I was progressing through the build, these little things ended up bothering me because they felt so cheap. Who buys a TC which says « luxury » on the box and is okay with petty things like plastic shims off a tree ? NOT ME. And yes, I know that spring steel outdrives cost more (DUH) but who is going to run the car with the plastic ones ? Anyone knows that they are going to get notched by the bone pin and deteriorate the car's handling within a few runs. My FK05 came with the spring steel outdrives and now they are a hop-up ? PLEASE ! And no belt tensioner ? Even with a slow motor the belt flaps around without a tensioner. It costs the manufacturer next to nothing. Was it so hard ?

To sum up, the Xray is still a good car as far as quality goes, but it certainly has lost its « near perfection » status in my eyes. If you want to market your product as « luxury », I am afraid you will have to step up and actually EARN your spot at the top again !
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Last edited by heretic; 06-04-2016 at 04:35 AM.
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Old 06-04-2016, 07:33 AM   #773
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Nearly all points you mention won't hurt the performance at all (exept for the button head screws...).
I will not defend Xray. Unfortunately this company is on the same path like most of the others. Quality costs money and so they just look how to optimize their income and buy cheap (the screws maybe come from different producers to buy as cheap as possible) what the don't produce. What they produce is calculated in time. So no one cares if the chamfer looks the same after the part was turned around by the cnc maschine (or however they do it).
The plastic shims in my opinion do the job well on the hinge pins. I don't want to use them on the inner camberlink ballstuds, but use them on the steering arm and c-hub. No problem at all.
The term "luxury" is of course pure marketing and depends on what car you are coming from. Quality has nothing to do with it in our times. That is lame I know.

I also have to say that my '15 doesn't have your mentioned issues. My screws are ok, I don't have the play in the carriers, the servo mount sits correct...

Things which I don't like are the swelling bladders and diff seals. And of course the price for some tuning parts like the PSS...
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:16 PM   #774
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Xray gear diffs are the gold standard in on road, if it's notchy you could've missed some flashing, regardles it will smooth out. Did you use grease on the o rings and outdrives? I personally use avid slop on the o rings and grease on the outdrives. The orange portion of the servo mount can be installed either way, one way allows you to insert a bolt and a few shims to use as a battery stop. The ball stud lengths have never caused any issues for me, or anyone else that I'm aware of. Belt tensioner is an unnecessary part and you'll see that almost no one runs one on a t4. The plastic spool cups are not ideal, but they do work fine in stock classes. They will wear and cause binding, which will warrant their replacement. The new rsd spool cups are top notch and are what I'm running in mod. While I do use aluminum shims throughout my sedans, I've never had any issues with the plastic ones, in fact I'm using them on both of my xb2s with no issues.
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:54 PM   #775
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i just ordered this car. do i need to use a low profile servo or will a standard size servo be OK.

i have a 13.5 motor here that i plan to use. is it good or will it be too fast to control?
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Old 06-06-2016, 05:10 PM   #776
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A low profile servo makes fitting everything easier but a standard servo will fit if you have a small receiver and ESC. You don't often see anything but a low profile in touring cars anymore.
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Old 06-06-2016, 05:15 PM   #777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekim View Post
i have a 13.5 motor here that i plan to use. is it good or will it be too fast to control?
To be brutally honest. If you have to ask, it'll be too fast...
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Old 06-06-2016, 05:43 PM   #778
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To be brutally honest. If you have to ask, it'll be too fast...
i have never driven an on road car. i have only used it on an off road buggy. its fine on a buggy

i guess i should word it, do many people use 13.5 or a different sized motor?
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Old 06-06-2016, 06:05 PM   #779
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i have never driven an on road car. i have only used it on an off road buggy. its fine on a buggy

i guess i should word it, do many people use 13.5 or a different sized motor?
Id think that depends on what your local track runs. My tracks run 17.5 indoors and 13.5 outdoors. Just depends on what is popular in your area.
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Old 06-06-2016, 06:25 PM   #780
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i dont really have a local track. i suppose if its too fast i can just de-tune it from my remote
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