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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 05-01-2016, 01:05 AM   #721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bLamey470 View Post
ARS & PSS
What scenarios would I use each one??
And would you use them together??

And I know you don't change your oil on the PSS what about springs??
Would you run standard springs or progressive springs (or would that defeat the purpose)
ARS on a smooth large flowing track, normally on asphalt.

PSS again normally used on asphalt and normally go to a thicker weight oil.
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:00 AM   #722
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Originally Posted by bLamey470 View Post
ARS & PSS
What scenarios would I use each one??
And would you use them together??

And I know you don't change your oil on the PSS what about springs??
Would you run standard springs or progressive springs (or would that defeat the purpose)
PSS, seems to work well outdoors, less so indoors. Generally you'll want to go up 100cst or so on the oil. Eg the team would use 450cst Hudy oil on standard shocks, but 550cst with PSS. I use AE oil, and tend to find 35wt to 37.5wt good for PSS, with 32.5wt on standard.

Also don't forget that you can tune the pss with foam above the bladder. Foam above increases the pack (initial stiffness), out reduces it. Personally, I prefer it out for most tracks, unless its very hot. Little smoother to drive IMO.

ARS, can't comment...never even tried it!
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Old 05-03-2016, 04:00 PM   #723
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:25 AM   #724
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Hi everyone,

I'm just curious here about why Team XRay does not produce shaft driven touring car, just like Tamiya TB Evo series (shaft driven) is equivalent to its TRF series (belt driven)?

Thanks.
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:36 AM   #725
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Hi everyone,

I'm just curious here about why Team XRay does not produce shaft driven touring car, just like Tamiya TB Evo series (shaft driven) is equivalent to its TRF series (belt driven)?

Thanks.
Xray has never made a shaft driven car. They've been in the market since the early 2000's with belts and show no signs of wanting to swap over. Tamiya on the other hand had all of their touring cars shaft driven until I think the TRF 414 (could be wrong, they may have had the TA series out before this.) Belts are more efficient, and generally easier to race with when using high power motors.

The competitive shaft car on the market had to employ a different driveline design to get rid of the torque steer that occurs with lots of power in a shaft car, and still wasn't quite on pace with the T4 on asphalt.

Long story short; Xray has always been belt and probably won't switch.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:53 AM   #726
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Originally Posted by Danny-b23 View Post
Tamiya on the other hand had all of their touring cars shaft driven until I think the TRF 414 (could be wrong, they may have had the TA series out before this.)
I believe at least the TA03 was out before that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny-b23 View Post
Belts are more efficient, and generally easier to race with when using high power motors.
Belts are more efficient? Belts are certainly easier to drive, since they don't get that torque steer issue with powerful motors (unless you design something special, like the Awesomatix A700, to avoid that), but the drivetrain of a shaft driven car should be way more efficient.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny-b23 View Post
The competitive shaft car on the market had to employ a different driveline design to get rid of the torque steer that occurs with lots of power in a shaft car, and still wasn't quite on pace with the T4 on asphalt.
Most manufacturers only produce belt-driven competition-level touring cars and no shaft alternatives at all. I can only think of Awesomatix and Tamiya having top tier shaft driven cars, while some manufacturers still offer a cheapened down version of their old (10+ year) shaft cars as club racers (e.g. Associated TC4, Yokomo SD Sport)
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:59 PM   #727
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Originally Posted by DirkW View Post
Belts are more efficient? Belts are certainly easier to drive, since they don't get that torque steer issue with powerful motors (unless you design something special, like the Awesomatix A700, to avoid that), but the drivetrain of a shaft driven car should be way more efficient.
Belt drive is more efficient, not as free, but mechanically more efficient. The reason for this is a shaft drive requires a change in the direction of torque. So there is a loss of horsepower.
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Old 05-06-2016, 02:57 PM   #728
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Originally Posted by DirkW View Post
Belts are more efficient? Belts are certainly easier to drive, since they don't get that torque steer issue with powerful motors (unless you design something special, like the Awesomatix A700, to avoid that), but the drivetrain of a shaft driven car should be way more efficient.
Apologies, the word efficiency may have been the wrong word to use. KE4PJO is correct in saying the power is in the same plane as the drive, but what the variable is here is the drag of the belts on the pulleys. I do not have numerical stats to back up my claim of higher efficiency. Not that it matters for top level Mod TC racing anyways.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirkW View Post
Most manufacturers only produce belt-driven competition-level touring cars and no shaft alternatives at all. I can only think of Awesomatix and Tamiya having top tier shaft driven cars, while some manufacturers still offer a cheapened down version of their old (10+ year) shaft cars as club racers (e.g. Associated TC4, Yokomo SD Sport)
I was trying to avoid naming a brand. The Russians have done it properly and gotten rid of torque steer, but having driven a newer Tamiya car, it still has all the torque steer problems that shaft cars of old had. It's the big reason the market moved away from them.
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Old 05-06-2016, 04:20 PM   #729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny-b23 View Post
Apologies, the word efficiency may have been the wrong word to use. KE4PJO is correct in saying the power is in the same plane as the drive, but what the variable is here is the drag of the belts on the pulleys. I do not have numerical stats to back up my claim of higher efficiency. Not that it matters for top level Mod TC racing anyways.
Nah, it's alright. English is not my native language, so maybe I just got it wrong. But I get what you mean, and you're right. Just sounded weird in the first moment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny-b23 View Post
I was trying to avoid naming a brand. The Russians have done it properly and gotten rid of torque steer, but having driven a newer Tamiya car, it still has all the torque steer problems that shaft cars of old had. It's the big reason the market moved away from them.
I thought it better to be clear and openly name the things we're talking about.

Anyway, enough about shaft drive - this is the Xray T4 2016 thread. Back to topic!
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:27 PM   #730
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Thanks for all your kind inputs, guys. Anyway I just bought a XRay T4 2016 and even my Yokomo drift car is belt driven. Personally, I would prefer belt than shaft.
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Old 05-07-2016, 12:53 AM   #731
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Thanks for all your kind inputs, guys. Anyway I just bought a XRay T4 2016 and even my Yokomo drift car is belt driven. Personally, I would prefer belt than shaft.
You'll be very pleased with the t4. Can't beat the quality or the support of the team.
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Old 05-07-2016, 06:39 AM   #732
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You'll be very pleased with the t4. Can't beat the quality or the support of the team.
Well, that's the same feedback I heard from everyone using XRay T4 and emphasizing on the durability of the car kit's stock parts. Most even said that you need not even need to hop up and it just runs as if there is no tomorrow (not sure if that's exaggerating). The car kit is currently in the process of building and I hope all the feedbacks hold true.
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:12 AM   #733
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any news on a update for a 2017 or T5 ? of what you think how long to 2016 wil still be the current top liner model ?
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:14 AM   #734
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Well, that's the same feedback I heard from everyone using XRay T4 and emphasizing on the durability of the car kit's stock parts. Most even said that you need not even need to hop up and it just runs as if there is no tomorrow (not sure if that's exaggerating). The car kit is currently in the process of building and I hope all the feedbacks hold true.
If you're on Facebook, I'd recommend checking out Tim Wahl's page. He posted some very helpful build tips for the entire build process that goes above and beyond the kit instructions & explains why he does those things. You don't have to do all of those things for the car to perform great, but most of them make it easier to tune and enjoy the car. Most of these tips really would be helpful for any brand of car. He also lists the option parts that he prefers which I mostly agree with. However, as you've heard they aren't all necessary right out of the box.
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Old 05-08-2016, 07:15 AM   #735
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any news on a update for a 2017 or T5 ? of what you think how long to 2016 wil still be the current top liner model ?
Haven't heard much but usually the new model starts making its way to the public around October.
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