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Old 03-17-2017, 02:10 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 04-01-2016, 08:10 AM   #676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bar View Post
looking for some aftermarket C-Clip ECS driveshafts for my T4, I have been looking at the Arrowmax ones I haven't been impressed by any of the Radtec stuff since they have gone away from the Roche brand, never really been impressed with anything from Spec R, what would you guys recommend?
The RSD shafts are great. I run them in modified carpet and asphalt and they wear very well.
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:17 AM   #677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bLamey470 View Post
Hey I had a couple questions





And last starting gearing for 17.5

Thank you
Quote:
On the setup sheet where the wheelbase is what are the 0 1 1 obviously related to hub spacing but what does it tell
The interface for the wheel base measurement confuses everyone at first, it's not well executed. But basically you can check 0 or 1, and then you can also check the second 1. This refers to the number of 1mm shims in front of the arm. So in the front, checking only the 0 means 2mm of shims behind the arm (the longest front arm position, or shortest rear arm position). Checking only the 1 means the arm is centered, and checking both 1's means both 1mm shims are in the front of the arm.

Quote:
And when it talks about o-ring on shaft it relates to inside the body or like up travel limiter
I'm 99% sure that's up stop limiting, not down, so the o-ring would be on the outside of the shock.

Quote:

And is there any tips to calming the car down and not be so aggressive
Standard carpet setup
Mixed medium track carpet
TQ raceway
I've heard that's a super high bite track. A couple things to try. Lighter springs all around will make the car more docile. You can try lowering your roll centers, which will let the car roll. Make sure you have at least your front tire side walls glued, at least once. Turn dual-rate down on your radio to make the car easier to drive.

I'll pass on the gearing question.
Best of luck.
Ethan
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:43 AM   #678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bLamey470 View Post
Hey I had a couple questions

On the setup sheet where the wheelbase is what are the 0 1 1 obviously related to hub spacing but what does it tell

And when it talks about o-ring on shaft it relates to inside the body or like up travel limiter

And is there any tips to calming the car down and not be so aggressive
Standard carpet setup
Mixed medium track carpet
TQ raceway

And last starting gearing for 17.5

Thank you
Make sure you start with "base carpet setup" from xray website, it works very well for me and I was able to fine tune from there.
If the base setup is still too aggressive for you, dial back front camber, shim up the inner camber link and use second position for rear shocks , and /or use the rear flex hole on motor mount would all help.
I am running on tq racing too.
They just changed the layout lately, so the traction may feel weird, but you should be able to run well with above tips though.
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Old 04-01-2016, 04:31 PM   #679
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Doing maintenance on shocks, no O-rings but they're on order. In the meantime can I found these O-rings:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...rg03xr/p151059

and

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...ys-7hg/p242398

Anyone use these and are they o.k. and do not leak.
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Old 04-01-2016, 06:13 PM   #680
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subscribing
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:50 AM   #681
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Does anyone tried the new brass suspension mount and how was it
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Old 04-04-2016, 02:09 AM   #682
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Wanted to share my experience with avid alum chassis and xray flex chassis ( 301141), when running 17.5.
Last week, I was using avid alum chassi and I was pretty impressed by it, or I should say I was impressed by alum chassis in general, as that was my first alum chassis I have ever used.
I was able to achieve about 0.3 average faster laps with avid chassis. The car was just so stable and I could push as hard as I want. The only thing I wished I could have was a bit steering.
I tried xray flex chassis this weekend and , all i want to say is wow, I broke my best lap time with this chassis and my average lap times was about 0.4 faster than lap times when using avid and my fastest lap was 10.4 while it was 10.8 when using avid.
our track is considered as medium - high carpet track( TQ rc racing) . Although xray doesn't recommend their flex alum chassi on high bite carpet, but my personal test shows that it still performs well in high bite condition , it is as stable as avid chassis while offers more steering.
Maybe avid can perform better when traction is built up to super high bite, but I don't think it would be much better than the xray one.
Even though xray has more cut out area, but surprisly , xray alum chassi weighs the same as avid alum chassis, which has less cut out area. I think this could potentially means the material that xray use is heavier and possibly flex less.

So, in summary, I personally think xray alum chassis is a better choice than avid for my driving style.
Wanted to hear you guys opinions too.
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Old 04-04-2016, 12:40 PM   #683
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What about the 3rd aluminum chassis you ordered?
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:04 PM   #684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vabroom View Post
What about the 3rd aluminum chassis you ordered?
The third chassis is another avid alum chassis.
I really wanted to try 301140 (solid alum chassis from xray), but no vendor sells it in US last time I check...
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:37 PM   #685
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I really like my hard aluminum chassis. It feels super consistant and predictably pitchable.
Hopefully i get to run against some team xray guys who use the flex chassis for some direct comparison. One runs stock lots where the other focuses mod. Id focus mod more if more club racers wanted it and my travke budget was bigger heh.
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Old 04-04-2016, 11:16 PM   #686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
I really like my hard aluminum chassis. It feels super consistant and predictably pitchable.
Hopefully i get to run against some team xray guys who use the flex chassis for some direct comparison. One runs stock lots where the other focuses mod. Id focus mod more if more club racers wanted it and my travke budget was bigger heh.
I, Valk, please share us some comparison after you run with them. I checked their setup sheet and some of them use flex one while others use solid one, would be nice to hear some feed back before I spend another 100 dollars .
Thank you!
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:58 AM   #687
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How is the flex between the avid aluchassis, compared to the xray soft and hard?
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:13 AM   #688
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Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
How is the flex between the avid aluchassis, compared to the xray soft and hard?
This is how I feel, but I personally think avid is no more stiffer than xray flex chassis..
I am not doing any scientific tests, but when I was twist chassis with 2 hands , I found I could easily twist avid chassis, but xray flex seems to require a little more force.
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:19 AM   #689
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If luke or blake are reading this thread they can just walk over to my pit and drive the car to compare heh.
We have all flavors of alum chassis on site atm. Ill check it out.
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:06 PM   #690
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I'm trying to find a good balance in my car and my battery is a little under weight the 5600 lcg and starting to think its a bad idea as I'm wayy under weight and don't want to use a million grams of little stick weights what's a good battery bring my weight up and have a more balanced car left to right??
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