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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 02-21-2016, 03:35 AM   #541
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Originally Posted by yifuqiao View Post
Appreciated the feedback, man.
Lol, I guess I should start saving for m12s then.
I am currently using m11x, while it is way better than my previous GT3B, but I feel like it is outdated after trying my friend's m12s.
But I will keep driving like this though, I have only had the car for 2 weeks.
Radio is gonna be an upgrade , but it is probably not bottom neck right now.
Could you tell me what you found could have been improved for your driving style? I know it may not work for me, but I would like some inspiration.
The first really is control, then consistency and correct lines. As mentioned above and by others, I felt more connected to my car which in turn I felt more confident controlling my kit. Afterwhich, it's a matter of practice, practice, practice of controlling your car to make it consistent. Consistency is the most difficult thing for me and I'm focusing on this, particularly being consistent on the correct racing line. Knowing and following the correct/fastest way around the track plays make a huge difference. Even if you have the strongest motor among your class, but if you cant control your car, be consistent with it and race the correct line, you'd still be slow.

Sometimes, i dont make any changes and i force myself not make any set up changes in my car in order to focus on improving my driving skill.

*Based on my personal experience of being a back marker for years despite having the strongest motor and newest set of tires.
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:37 AM   #542
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Does anyone experience uneven rear toes?
I found that the difference between my rear toes is like 1 degree , and this is checked on setup station.
I loosed every related screws and retight them, still couldn't get even toes.
My current solution is using different toe inserts on left and right... And it matched perfectly on setup station..
The difference between left inserts and right inserts is right on 1 .
This makes me thing it could be part defect ...

It kind of bothers me.
My friend told me he remembered the older X-ray had the similar issue..
This is my first X-ray, so I am not sure if my problem is normal or not.
Tbh, when the car was freshly built, I noticed this problem already, but I thought it was because i didn't right screws correctly , or chassis was tweaked.
I don't think I bent any pins, but I will check .
This is a direct quote from me posted in the Tamiya TRF419 thread:


Did you guys ever think of "forcing the suspension blocks to one side"? By that I mean, when you mount a screw in the suspension block, the block will move according to the direction you are screwing. So, clockwise. The suspension block will wander clockwise as well when fully tightening, not (always) noticable by eye. This is completely normal. I even have this on my Xray T4 and previous Capricorn and Tamiya cars.
You should move/hold/force/press the suspension block counter clockwise when tightening the screws, in order to keep it in place and not messing up your toe value. This is completely normal for blocks that do not have the centering posts, like Tamiya has.

If your car has more toe in on the right rear wheel, let's say 1 degree more than the left rear wheel, you need to correct it with only 0.5 degrees. Seems a lot, but it isn't. Loosen all the suspension blocks of the rear suspension, (in this case), tighten the screws from your RIGHT RF block while giving pressure towards the screwing direction. This will reduce toe in on your RIGHT side. To increase toe in on your LEFT side a bit, do the same, tighten the screws of your LEFT RF block and give pressure towards screwing direction. So now, by doing this you have reduced right rear toe in and increased left rear toe in.

Finally, do the same with the RR block. Press it counter clockwise, against the screwing direction, when tightening screws. This will again decrease right rear toe in and increase left rear toe in. As a result you will have equal toe in.

On some cars the chassis holes can be drilled a bit wider or could have worn out a bit, causing the suspension blocks to move when fully tightened. this will screw up your toe value.

Also, what I would always do, check hinge pins as well and rear hubs. Make sure these components are ok. If they are sanded or modified in any other way, just check if your method could not have influenced the toe value in any way.

Third thing: some bearings are not always ok. They give some slop on the axle, causing the axle to move a bit to one side or another. So when you attach the setup system, the slop between axle and bearing will actually cause the toe problem.

Also, detach the setup system and relocate it. Spin the wheel axle a bit and attach the setup system while putting pressure on the setup board, because, just like the suspension blocks, the setup system can also wander off a bit when you thighten the wheel nuts.
I have owned an Integy setup system for years, now I own a Hudy. Much better and much more accurate. But that is some other thing.

Make sure wheel hexes are ok, no debris behind the hex and pin and fully screwed on without any binding problems or any other problems.


Just take good care of the suspension blocks when tightening them. You can ädjust the toe value "by hand" in this way. I am quite sure this will help.
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Last edited by Govert; 02-21-2016 at 05:50 AM.
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Old 02-21-2016, 06:21 AM   #543
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To be off by 1 full degree sounds like something is bent. For sure start by checking the pins. If they are all straight, I'd suggest getting new rear hubs. Sometimes in hard or repeated hits, the plastic can bend or twist causing the toe to be off. I've had this once and I was scrambling for like an hour at the track until someone told me they had a hub twist before. Soon as I swapped hubs everything was straight again.

You could check this without even buying anything by swapping your hubs left to right and re-checking toe.

Blocks could be misaligned in the chassis but I've never seen them be off that far. That is also something worth trying tho.
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:30 AM   #544
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You could check this without even buying anything by swapping your hubs left to right and re-checking toe.

Blocks could be misaligned in the chassis but I've never seen them be off that far. That is also something worth trying tho.
Just to play devil's advocate here, but it's worth double checking the inserts for the hinge pins are the same left to right. I've seen someone have one or more inserts in flipped left to right.
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Old 02-21-2016, 10:53 AM   #545
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Originally Posted by yifuqiao View Post
Does anyone experience uneven rear toes?
I found that the difference between my rear toes is like 1 degree , and this is checked on setup station.
I loosed every related screws and retight them, still couldn't get even toes.
My current solution is using different toe inserts on left and right... And it matched perfectly on setup station..
The difference between left inserts and right inserts is right on 1 .
This makes me thing it could be part defect ...

It kind of bothers me.
My friend told me he remembered the older X-ray had the similar issue..
This is my first X-ray, so I am not sure if my problem is normal or not.
Tbh, when the car was freshly built, I noticed this problem already, but I thought it was because i didn't right screws correctly , or chassis was tweaked.
I don't think I bent any pins, but I will check .
I never had this problem...
1) check if pins are bend or incorrect length
2) check the spacers are same
3) make sure the eccentric spacers are correctly installed and used try 0 for all now
4) are the 3rd set of suspension mounts (2 separate pieces) are mounted correctly - don't screw in tight for until all are set correctly
5) check if your base chassis board is flat even on a flat surface (like on glass) (don't screw in your top chassis plate until u are sure it is flat loosen to place on top of glass then screw it in with a x pattern
6) are the flat short pins in the upright installed correctly?

Or perhaps a photo to share?
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:08 AM   #546
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yifuqiao,

I've had a similar problem before and I narrowed it down to my setup station toe plate being slightly warped.

Check your setup station toe plate for any warps, bends, or errors in the increment markings. A slight bend in the plate can cause mis-readings between each side.

Also, as the poster above stated, your setup board should be dead flat.
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:25 PM   #547
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All those variables in the setup station, hubs, etc. can be eliminating simply by flipping things left -to-right and measuring again. No need to fret about it.

I assume he checked everything is in good shape (pins not bent, etc) otherwise we're just wasting time here. If that is the case, I wouldn't bother with pushing this that way and the other the other way (very confusing post above, by the way). I would just use a different insert. The Xray system is brilliant that way. You should try Tamiya for an exercise in frustration.

Pushing things this way or that to compensate for uneven toe might work but it is terribly frustrating to have to do that every time you work on the suspension, and secondly, any tap on either side of the car and it's all thrown off again, simply because things like to go to the equilibrium position which is where they tend to go when you do up your screws. Been there, done that.

Manufacturers need to understand they need to key things properly so they don't bloody move about when you're screwing your car together. Right now, it is the countersink machined for each hole that decides where things find their resting position (and equally, the eccentricity of crap quality screw heads).
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:10 PM   #548
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counter sink wouldnt be a problem if the aluminum parts were machined with more of a countersink in them to suit the thinner plate material manufactures are pushing toward. keying works but when you start shimming the blocks upward the key usually doesnt work.
the blocks need to be able to move a little bit to adjust out slop. you can do this with shims but you will still need to adjust the blocks in most cases. i use a machinist square to set the inner hingepin mounts perfectly square to the chassis edge, then the front front and rear rear are allowed to float to the required position for deleting slop ect.
i couldn't imagine a full degree of toe being made from this though. prob a plastic component bent, or mismatched inserts.

it was a nice car to build but most of the truths of building touring cars are still there. the manual is very good, but there is still adjustment needed. but all depends how particular you are heh.
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:28 PM   #549
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Would anyone know we're I can get crush sleeves/ spacer ?
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Old 02-23-2016, 02:23 AM   #550
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Would anyone know we're I can get crush sleeves/ spacer ?
do you mean just regular 3x1mm / 3x2mm spacers? any brand will do IMHO
crush sleeves? for diff?
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:04 PM   #551
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Your best bet might be some generic m5 shims configured to your needs.
He prob wants to use shims between he inner axle races to prevent them from compressing together.

Some of these to fill the big space
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=10700

Add these to fine adjust
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=9155
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:21 PM   #552
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Originally Posted by Friulimotosport View Post
Would anyone know we're I can get crush sleeves/ spacer ?
https://www.rc-tworks.com/products/t...r-xray-t4-t415
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:28 PM   #553
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
Your best bet might be some generic m5 shims configured to your needs.
He prob wants to use shims between he inner axle races to prevent them from compressing together.

Some of these to fill the big space
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...asp?p_id=10700

Add these to fine adjust
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=9155
is it a good practice to use them?
I didn't see it being used according to the manual.
But I destroyed front outer axel bearings after a few practice days. , maybe put a spacer between the bearings in the axel could have prevented that?
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:54 PM   #554
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Originally Posted by yifuqiao View Post
is it a good practice to use them?
I didn't see it being used according to the manual.
But I destroyed front outer axel bearings after a few practice days. , maybe put a spacer between the bearings in the axel could have prevented that?
I've never know anyone to use crush tubes on an Xray hub or steering block. It's likely you destroyed your bearings by hitting something.
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Old 02-23-2016, 02:03 PM   #555
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I've never know anyone to use crush tubes on an Xray hub or steering block. It's likely you destroyed your bearings by hitting something.
ya, that was why I asked if a spacer between the bearings could have protected the bearings from getting destroyed during the hard impact.
I mean, crashes are inevitable.
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