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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Last edit by: R Dodge
Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 02-11-2016, 04:51 AM   #481
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Thanks
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:23 AM   #482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Dodge View Post
That's kind of hard to say right now. I ran the MazdaSpeed6 at Snowbirds, which is the only time I've been on the new carpet, and it went pretty well however most of the Xray guys there were using the LTC-R, including EA, Drew, Xavier, Ralph and Alex. Sam Isaacs has been doing really well on the new carpet with the MS6 & Nazda2 - He won US Indoor Champs with the MS6 and just recently won the Hudy Race with the N2, both events were on the new carpet.
Thanks , looks like I'll buy a Mazda 6 and an ltc-r.
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Old 02-11-2016, 11:15 AM   #483
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This picture shows inner side of servo, i think it looks fine.


This picture shows the outer side of the servo, see the space between the servo tab and screw(not up down space, I am talking about left- right space)? It wan't a perfect fit at all.
I think it is the carbon top piece is too long that is causing this.


If I use these screws(that comes with my protek servo ), my servo mount would be bent as fuck. but they fit perfect on other cars I have.


Could anyone measure how long your carbon fiber piece is...?
This really bothers me, as my servo doesn't seem to be fit it tight.
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Old 02-11-2016, 11:34 AM   #484
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Your servo is normal. There is nothing wrong. All servos are not equal and the mount is meant to fit most. You should have the washers from the Xray kit on the servo screws. They help keep the servo attached.





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Old 02-11-2016, 11:37 AM   #485
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Dude, your servo is obviously the wrong size for the mount. Either get another servo, or live with it. You've never had a top TC car before it seems. The Xray mount (and all other top end cars) are designed to allow for use of larger/more powerful/low profile servos. Yours is obviously on the small side. There's nothing wrong with the servo support, you just assumed (wrongly) that the car is designed for it.
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Old 02-11-2016, 11:43 AM   #486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Dude, your servo is obviously the wrong size for the mount. Either get another servo, or live with it. You've never had a top TC car before it seems. The Xray mount (and all other top end cars) are designed to allow for use of larger/more powerful/low profile servos. Yours is obviously on the small side. There's nothing wrong with the servo support, you just assumed (wrongly) that the car is designed for it.
T_T,
My savox 1251 wouldn't fix perfectly either.
Isn't low profile servo dimension pretty standard these days?
I means these servo fits perfectly fine on my trf 419 or spec r r1...
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Old 02-11-2016, 04:03 PM   #487
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I run the protek 160t in my 16 and use two of those blue washers on the inside mounting holes.It will keep the servo from shifting if you have a big impact which will mess up your trim.I just use two normal washers on the outside mounting holes since they are spaced too wide use all four of the blue washers.Hope that helps.
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Old 02-11-2016, 04:33 PM   #488
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Me and a lot of other guys are running Savox 1251 and don't have any issues mounting it. Fits fine.
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Old 02-11-2016, 09:16 PM   #489
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Its not the servo. Mine does the same thing. If you loosen the screws you can adjust where the servo mounts there is play. You will have to take the servo mount out to adjust it but it will fit properly.
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Old 02-11-2016, 11:35 PM   #490
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Thanks for the reply, guys, I am glad it sounds normal. I put counter sink washer on it now, it secures the servo much better.
Also, wanted to report my first run in TQ racing today.
Because this is my first time running t4, I was very cautious, i set throttle to 80% to just get a feel for the car.
My fastest lap with only 80% throttle is now 11.5 which is 0.4 faster than my trf 419 with same electronic , but full throttle. My average lap for is around 12.2, which is at a least 0.5 faster than my trf 419.
My friends were very impressed as well, they asked me if this is my first time drive the car, and it was. Lol, they also told me if they don't know me, they wouldn't imagine I am a newbie who just started 2 months ago.
I think the car just seems to be more direct, I could run the fast guys lines , while it was very hard to do the same with my 419.
I am very impressed now.

Now... I did break one of hudy Spring steel drive on right front side, but it wasn't because of the impact, it was because of those lock screws were loose and resulting the joints clasping.

I will make sure I examine those after every run from now on.
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:14 AM   #491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yifuqiao View Post
Now... I did break one of hudy Spring steel drive on right front side, but it wasn't because of the impact, it was because of those lock screws were loose and resulting the joints clasping.

I will make sure I examine those after every run from now on.
Good to hear that you got the servo issue sorted and the car is performing well for you. Regarding your ECS, when you built them did you use any loctite? I use purple loctite on the set screws when I build mine and I make sure they are very tight. If you do this and apply enough of the black grease, you should never have any issue with the ECS. It's good to check them every now and then, but when built properly they aren't something that you need to worry about every run. I check mine maybe before a big race, but that's it.
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Old 02-12-2016, 08:13 AM   #492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Dodge View Post
Good to hear that you got the servo issue sorted and the car is performing well for you. Regarding your ECS, when you built them did you use any loctite? I use purple loctite on the set screws when I build mine and I make sure they are very tight. If you do this and apply enough of the black grease, you should never have any issue with the ECS. It's good to check them every now and then, but when built properly they aren't something that you need to worry about every run. I check mine maybe before a big race, but that's it.
I did not use any thread lock, man. I was reading other t4 thread in this forum that some ppl don't recommend it.
But after slightly broke it yesterday( mine is lightly damaged, but holds up just fine, no bend ) , I think I will just put some thread lock on those swing shafts, those are critical moving parts.. I don't want them to fail.
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Old 02-12-2016, 08:21 AM   #493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yifuqiao View Post
I did not use any thread lock, man. I was reading other t4 thread in this forum that some ppl don't recommend it.
But after slightly broke it yesterday( mine is lightly damaged, but holds up just fine, no bend ) , I think I will just put some thread lock on those swing shafts, those are critical moving parts.. I don't want them to fail.
I highly recommend using thread lock on both set screws. But ensure that you disassemble, clean all grease out, apply thread lock to the set screw and screw in the set screw to the barrel unassembled. Let the loctite dry for a couple hours. Then grease and assemble.

The grease can render loctite ineffective if they mix before things dry.
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Old 02-12-2016, 08:34 AM   #494
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Definitely use thread lock on both set screws... Just make sure to not use too much as that can cause some other issues. Once built I never need to take them apart again. Once and a while I'll take them out to clean and add a bit of graphite grease but that is it.
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Old 02-12-2016, 01:36 PM   #495
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+1 for thread lock. I only use the blue though.
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