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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 02-04-2016, 06:18 AM   #436
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Default Fish tailing

Droop 6 and 4
Height 5 rear and 5.5 front
Roll centre. Rear back is out , rear front is centre, the front back is -5 in and the front front is -5 in
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:15 AM   #437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcracing01 View Post
Droop 6 and 4
Height 5 rear and 5.5 front
Roll centre. Rear back is out , rear front is centre, the front back is -5 in and the front front is -5 in
Common mistake/misunderstanding; droop isn't the same as downstop value. I think you mean downstop in your case.

Try to measure droop instead of downstop. First, as a starting base, set your downstop (to set left and right side even). After that set your ride height and from this point you can measure droop.
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:24 AM   #438
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Originally Posted by Rcracing01 View Post
Droop 6 and 4
Height 5 rear and 5.5 front
Roll centre. Rear back is out , rear front is centre, the front back is -5 in and the front front is -5 in
Just looking at this and nothing else (please post a full setup if you have one) I'd say go with 0 roll center blocks everywhere, lower your front ride height to 5mm, and adjust your downstops to be 5.6 in the front, and 5 in the rear.

This will make the car far more stable both on and off power. You didn't specify where you needed more grip, but these changes would help both.
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:32 AM   #439
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Originally Posted by Rcracing01 View Post
Droop 6 and 4
Height 5 rear and 5.5 front
Roll centre. Rear back is out , rear front is centre, the front back is -5 in and the front front is -5 in
If you're measuring the height under the suspension arms that is your downstop setting.

There could be too much weight transfer to the front of the car on power with a 4.0mm rear downstop setting, thus causing the rear fishtailing. Decreasing the rear droop could help.

I would start by slowly increasing your rear downstop value. Remember to re-check your ride height after your downstop changes and keep it the same (5.0mm).

Keeping the same ride height relative to a higher downstop setting will decrease your droop in the rear.

Last edited by B. Santos; 02-04-2016 at 09:47 AM. Reason: grammar, clarifications
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:32 AM   #440
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Alright great I'll try these out
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:19 PM   #441
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What batteries do you guys use that balance the car well? I would prefer to use SMC batteries so what mah? Also should I get a inboard connection or does it matter?
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:22 PM   #442
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Started building my t4 16 today.
I thought tamiya instruction was good.
But the X-ray manual was 100x better.

The diff feels so smooth.

1 question for you guys..
My hudy bearing oil is gonna be delivered tomorrow.
But I can't wait to assemble the whole thing.
is bearing oil absolutely a must?
in my trf419, they never mentioned anything about bearing oil.
Is bearing oil more for protection(prevent grit, sand from getting inside ) or for lubrication ? or both?
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Old 02-04-2016, 05:40 PM   #443
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Default Down travel

Quote:
Originally Posted by B. Santos View Post
If you're measuring the height under the suspension arms that is your downstop setting.

There could be too much weight transfer to the front of the car on power with a 4.0mm rear downstop setting, thus causing the rear fishtailing. Decreasing the rear droop could help.

I would start by slowly increasing your rear downstop value. Remember to re-check your ride height after your downstop changes and keep it the same (5.0mm).

Keeping the same ride height relative to a higher downstop setting will decrease your droop in the rear.
Ok so I defiantly did not know there is a difference in droop and down travel. Thought it was the same thing. I'm going to play around with it this weekend at the track and see what happens. Thanks for all your help
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Old 02-04-2016, 05:48 PM   #444
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Originally Posted by Rcracing01 View Post
Ok so I defiantly did not know there is a difference in droop and down travel. Thought it was the same thing. I'm going to play around with it this weekend at the track and see what happens. Thanks for all your help
They are the same essentially, so you're not that lost. Down travel is a constant from the bottom of the chassis, droop is variable based on ride height. If you always ran 5mm ride height the same down travel would give you the same droop everytime. If you move the ride height to 6mm the same down travel would give you 1mm less droop.

Look up measure droop over ride height, there are some YouTube videos on the subject. Sometimes seen as "droop orh".
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:20 PM   #445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yifuqiao View Post
Started building my t4 16 today.
I thought tamiya instruction was good.
But the X-ray manual was 100x better.

The diff feels so smooth.

1 question for you guys..
My hudy bearing oil is gonna be delivered tomorrow.
But I can't wait to assemble the whole thing.
is bearing oil absolutely a must?
in my trf419, they never mentioned anything about bearing oil.
Is bearing oil more for protection(prevent grit, sand from getting inside ) or for lubrication ? or both?
The bearings are already degreased and oiled from the factory. Their website description says this as well.

I think Xray mention to oil them in the manual as a reminder to maintain them regularly.

Also, bearing oil is more for lubrication of the bearing itself. It will do little to prevent grit from getting inside. A proper bearing grease is a better protectant, at the cost of performance. The shields do a fine job though.
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:45 PM   #446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B. Santos View Post
The bearings are already degreased and oiled from the factory. Their website description says this as well.

I think Xray mention to oil them in the manual as a reminder to maintain them regularly.

Also, bearing oil is more for lubrication of the bearing itself. It will do little to prevent grit from getting inside. A proper bearing grease is a better protectant, at the cost of performance. The shields do a fine job though.
Thanks for your information!

I am a little disappointed that the bulk head blocks and a arm shaft holder blocks aren't keyed into the chassis. I found that how i screw the bolt definitely easily affects how tight the a arm moves.
The problem I am having with this design is, the settings of the car can be easily changed upon collision, which could also create more slop , I imagine.

Does anyone have any problem with this on real track test? Do you guys have any trick to prevent it from tweaking?

I guess I will just have to examine the car every time after it gets a decent hit.
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Old 02-05-2016, 02:23 AM   #447
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Originally Posted by yifuqiao View Post
Thanks for your information!

I am a little disappointed that the bulk head blocks and a arm shaft holder blocks aren't keyed into the chassis. I found that how i screw the bolt definitely easily affects how tight the a arm moves.
The problem I am having with this design is, the settings of the car can be easily changed upon collision, which could also create more slop , I imagine.

Does anyone have any problem with this on real track test? Do you guys have any trick to prevent it from tweaking?

I guess I will just have to examine the car every time after it gets a decent hit.
Put some counter-pressure with a droop block while tightening your screws. So I align my bulkhead, suspension mounts etc with my (straight) droop block tight against it and keep some subtle pressure to prevent the bulkhead from tweaking while installing. Not too much pressure, otherwise you will tweak it the other way.

After installing left and right bulkheads, I measure if the distance/gap between front part and back part of the bulkheads are equal. Use a caliper for this job.
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Old 02-05-2016, 04:29 AM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yifuqiao View Post
Thanks for your information!

I am a little disappointed that the bulk head blocks and a arm shaft holder blocks aren't keyed into the chassis. I found that how i screw the bolt definitely easily affects how tight the a arm moves.
The problem I am having with this design is, the settings of the car can be easily changed upon collision, which could also create more slop , I imagine.

Does anyone have any problem with this on real track test? Do you guys have any trick to prevent it from tweaking?

I guess I will just have to examine the car every time after it gets a decent hit.
If this is a concern, then for the arm mounts you can push them as far apart as possible while screwing them down. That way they can't move in a crash (since a crash is never going to push them towards each other). If that gives too much slop, use 0.1mm shims to get rid of it.
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Old 02-05-2016, 11:17 AM   #449
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Thanks for the replies, guys.
Also, where is the white belt that everyone is using?
I thought it was included in the kit?
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Old 02-05-2016, 11:36 AM   #450
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Thanks for the replies, guys.
Also, where is the white belt that everyone is using?
I thought it was included in the kit?
That's the low friction belt (white). Option part. There are a couple different manufactures out there.
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