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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 01-26-2016, 06:07 AM   #406
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Just wondering what the differences are of running hard or med plastic parts? My experience with my AE B5M, med will flex more and hard will break easier.

With the T4, will hard be more responsive, and med more grip due to more flex? Are either more fragile than the other?

Also, for a medium grip carpet track, will the stock chassis or the aluminum chassis be more preferable in 17.5 blinky? I have both, just haven't tried them both yet.
You're spot on, the medium plastics will flex and create a bit more grip, whereas the graphite arms will be a touch more responsive, as well as more consistent in higher grip situations (in my experience.)

The chassis choice is tough to call without knowing exactly what the conditions you're running on are. If you were to go aluminum chassis on a traditionally "medium" grip track, I'd recommend the Avid or new Xray chassis with cutouts, which creates a bit more flex than the solid Xray chassis and therefore more grip. If you're running on the new carpet at all, I think the general consensus is that aluminum chassis' are a must.
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Old 01-28-2016, 05:16 PM   #407
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Just built up my t416. This will be my first outing for on road. I need to know where to set the body height on the mounts. Manual states eighth hole down in front and seventh in the rear. This seems to set the body really low, wheel well sitting at top of the tire. Advice will be greatly appreciated. After 5 years out of the hobby I'm back! Kids grew up....
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Old 01-28-2016, 05:44 PM   #408
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Just built up my t416. This will be my first outing for on road. I need to know where to set the body height on the mounts. Manual states eighth hole down in front and seventh in the rear. This seems to set the body really low, wheel well sitting at top of the tire. Advice will be greatly appreciated. After 5 years out of the hobby I'm back! Kids grew up....
That's pretty hard to answer because bodies have unique shapes.

The best I can suggest is to fit the car(mounts) to the body, not the other way around. Make your wheel well cuts, mount the body in its natural flat state (use the bottom straight lines as a guide), then once you have the body set use a sharpie, flush to the ground, to trace the bottom cut.

Edit: there's a bunch of YouTube videos out there for a visual of the process.
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Old 01-29-2016, 10:07 AM   #409
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Originally Posted by xrider View Post
Just built up my t416. This will be my first outing for on road. I need to know where to set the body height on the mounts. Manual states eighth hole down in front and seventh in the rear. This seems to set the body really low, wheel well sitting at top of the tire. Advice will be greatly appreciated. After 5 years out of the hobby I'm back! Kids grew up....
I have to alter the height of the mounts depending on the bodyshell I am using. There is a big difference between the two most common bodyshells the PF Mazda 6 & PF LTCR
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Old 01-31-2016, 03:21 AM   #410
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Do any of you guys use this car for VTA racing? Also if not could this car be used for VTA racing?
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Old 02-01-2016, 05:19 AM   #411
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Do any of you guys use this car for VTA racing? Also if not could this car be used for VTA racing?
Anyone?
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Old 02-01-2016, 12:07 PM   #412
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Anyone?
Most people don't run the latest and greatest chassis in VTA. Many run at least slightly older chassis in keeping with the spirit of the class. You can for sure run it in VTA though, nothing against it. That being said the newer chassis are also extremely light and you need to add a ton of weight to get to the minimum, so older chassis are more popular from this standpoint as well. While most probably aren't running the 2016 car in VTA you can likely find some VTA setups for any T4 car (back to 2013) and they would transfer over well.
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Old 02-01-2016, 12:08 PM   #413
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well said.. the weight rule now.. is pretty high for VTA.. and heck.. even finding spot on the car for the weight.. is hard enough..
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:05 PM   #414
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well said.. the weight rule now.. is pretty high for VTA.. and heck.. even finding spot on the car for the weight.. is hard enough..
Go on eBay and type in "XRAY T4 VTA"
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:27 PM   #415
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im not interested in VTA.. lol.. too slow to me.. put the slowest motor in a car.. then add a bunch of weight.. makes no sense to me.. hah
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Old 02-01-2016, 02:11 PM   #416
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Hey, guys,
I have been practicing, using my TRF 419 in the past 2-3 months.
Being a newbie for on-road racing, I am glad that the chassis is still in 1 piece, it has been taking pretty good amount punishment, but I have fewer and fewer accidents now and I found most of time, I could control my car out of huge crashes, if there is a crash, it is most likely a collision with another car.

My friends told me, it is probably good idea to just sell the car and get another something else after I stopped hitting the board.

After I did some math myself, I think it also make sense to just buy a new kit instead of buying replacement parts for my 419.

I think I will need new sets of o rings, new bearings, new chassis plates, maybe a set of DCJs, belts, front bumper mount , and maybe other stuff, if I want to refresh my 419 to top condition.

I just felt like it is a waste of money to dump money on a slightly out dated car, and when looking at newer cars, It just blows my mind that how crappy some designs that tamiya has come up with.

I have been looking at Xray t4 and yokomo bd7, but I think I will most likely get the Xray t4 when I am ready to purchase.
I really like the design of it, and many details are just so well thought, such as active rear toe blocks, sway bar mount with bearings. and suspension arm shaft holder. All these little details make me really wanna own a X ray now.

I am just curious,
Does t4 16 have a "large window" for settings?
How does it perform compare to BD7 on high bite carpet?
Does it feel "easier" to drive?
Is it good idea to buy a used / older version of the T4? or is it the same like radio, buy the greatest you can afford? I bought a used spec r r1 before, but it was pretty hard to get back to like new condition, and I ended up selling it again.
I don't really have a budget, but it is good to save some money for car maintenance. Compare to my 1:1 race car(Mitsubishi Evo X), I found RC cars a lot wallet friendly...
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Old 02-01-2016, 03:01 PM   #417
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I am just curious,
Does t4 16 have a "large window" for settings?
The kit settings are pretty spot on, but you can venture away from it and still manage the car if you go in the wrong direction.
How does it perform compare to BD7 on high bite carpet?
Personally can't comment, but I have read the Xray is better on carpet, about a wash with Yok on asphalt. For really high grip carpet the aluminum chassis is preferred (I believe the Yokomo can come with an aluminum chassis in the kit, whereas Xray is aftermarket only)
Does it feel "easier" to drive?
Compared to what? Can't comment on it related to the BD7. Most TC's are similar now a days
Is it good idea to buy a used / older version of the T4? or is it the same like radio, buy the greatest you can afford? I bought a used spec r r1 before, but it was pretty hard to get back to like new condition, and I ended up selling it again.
Xray has carried many of the same parts through the years, so it is easy to replace common wear items like belts/bearings/arms etc. Older versions will still run great and will save you money up front. The newer cars are worth a couple tenths, but if you are still getting the hang of racing, then you probably won't notice a real difference.
I don't really have a budget, but it is good to save some money for car maintenance. Compare to my 1:1 race car(Mitsubishi Evo X), I found RC cars a lot wallet friendly...
Xray cars rarely if ever break in a wreck, especially if running a stock class. You would only need to replace wear items after quite some time. If you are only racing on high bite carpet the aluminum chassis should be considered.

Bottom line check for a used 2015 with an aluminum chassis and go that route since it is a very similar car to the 2016 and shares many of the features you pointed out. Though a 2013-14 car would still perform great it doesn't have all of the aforementioned features, but will come at a lower price. They should all be competitive for you.
Just my opinions/observations (in red). I'm sure others will weigh in too
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Old 02-01-2016, 03:55 PM   #418
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does anybody have a carbon chassis weight vs the std alum vs the flex alum chassis?

thanks
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:12 AM   #419
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Default 48P gears

Good morning,

I have been looking to go 48 pitch as I am not so precise with gearing ratios but more for finishing races. I'm running 17.5 and the smallest gear Xray does is 78.

Does anyone know any suppliers in North America that have smaller offset gears that will fit the T4. Looking for 69-75T. Can't seem to find RW racing, leespeed, or panaracer on any sites.

Thank you
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:18 AM   #420
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Good morning,

I have been looking to go 48 pitch as I am not so precise with gearing ratios but more for finishing races. I'm running 17.5 and the smallest gear Xray does is 78.

Does anyone know any suppliers in North America that have smaller offset gears that will fit the T4. Looking for 69-75T. Can't seem to find RW racing, leespeed, or panaracer on any sites.

Thank you
Not in the US, but ships to the US:
RW Racing Supalite Spurs 48DP 70T RW48S70

The black RW spurs will always fit in a T4.
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