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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 12-23-2015, 12:59 AM   #346
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A quick question, the manual said the 3mm nut that holds the motor mount should be tight. However, guys at the track including those sponsored drivers said that nut should be loose to just holding the mount onto the chassis, not tightened. Anyone know the difference in feeling between tighting and not tighting the nut? Thanks
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Old 12-23-2015, 01:07 AM   #347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackshark3 View Post
A quick question, the manual said the 3mm nut that holds the motor mount should be tight. However, guys at the track including those sponsored drivers said that nut should be loose to just holding the mount onto the chassis, not tightened. Anyone know the difference in feeling between tighting and not tighting the nut? Thanks
It says do not tighten fully in the manual
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Old 12-23-2015, 03:01 AM   #348
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Originally Posted by rcmart View Post
It says do not tighten fully in the manual
Look at the bracket at the lower right hand corner of step 2 at page 10, the bracket marked Important in bold. It said "The M3 nut must always be tightened fully". Leave the nut loose was only to hold it onto the chassis on assembly, then the motor mount has to be tightened in the order recommended
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Old 12-23-2015, 03:19 AM   #349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alecladanga View Post
Leespeed and Panaracer fit perfectly.

Unfortunately, xenon doesn't

you could also try spec r as they fit as well as some hpi.
Dal was asking about pinions. Xenon pinions definitely work, I've used them. If you're talking about xenon spur gears then I agree.
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Old 12-23-2015, 03:22 AM   #350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackshark3 View Post
Look at the bracket at the lower right hand corner of step 2 at page 10, the bracket marked Important in bold. It said "The M3 nut must always be tightened fully". Leave the nut loose was only to hold it onto the chassis on assembly, then the motor mount has to be tightened in the order recommended
It's just another tuning option. With a locknut it is an option because the nut will still hold the screw but allow things to move a little under load. I've never tried it so I don't know exactly how it affects the car. The manual really can't suggest that because if people start stripping spur gears then that becomes Xray's fault.

If you want to hear something really crazy, I've heard of some guys that remove the entire "T" plate from the front of the motor mount and just let it float. I'm not sure I'm brave enough to try that one.
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Old 12-23-2015, 03:35 AM   #351
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Even with mod you can loosen the nut a bit. More flex at the back side. Makes it easier to drive, but can feel sluggish sometimes depending on other circumstances. But overall, in my experiene, it make the car more predictable.
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:33 AM   #352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Dodge View Post
It's just another tuning option. With a locknut it is an option because the nut will still hold the screw but allow things to move a little under load. I've never tried it so I don't know exactly how it affects the car. The manual really can't suggest that because if people start stripping spur gears then that becomes Xray's fault.

If you want to hear something really crazy, I've heard of some guys that remove the entire "T" plate from the front of the motor mount and just let it float. I'm not sure I'm brave enough to try that one.
A while back I took out the center post and didn't realise I'd forgotten to put the nut and screw back in, so there was nothing holding it to the chassis. The L plate was still attached to the mount with the pan head screw.
It was only the head of that screw that prevented a lot of movement.
I accidentally ran it like that for a few meetings and had plenty of crashes.

It all survived.
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:45 AM   #353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
A while back I took out the center post and didn't realise I'd forgotten to put the nut and screw back in, so there was nothing holding it to the chassis. The L plate was still attached to the mount with the pan head screw.
It was only the head of that screw that prevented a lot of movement.
I accidentally ran it like that for a few meetings and had plenty of crashes.

It all survived.
Good to know, also a great tip about keeping the plate in place so that the button head screw can help minimize movement in a heavy hit. Thanks!
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Old 12-23-2015, 05:51 AM   #354
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Just curious. If someone was to get this as a first TC car to build, with a couple of locals that have already built it, how much trouble would he be in trying to get it built? In other words, is this a suitable kit for a newbie builder?

Also, the kit lists a number of optional parts and optional stuff like bearing grease? Are any of these essential if the car will be run on both carpet indoors and asphalt outdoors (no idea of traction levels)?

Will likely be run in novice at first, then a VTA-like spec, then 17.5 blinky stock, but not mod.

Trying to decide on a TC car to build. The build part is important because it is being used as a type of therapy to take my mind off medical issues.

Thanks in advance for any advice provided.

Marc
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Old 12-23-2015, 06:28 AM   #355
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Originally Posted by StillLearning View Post
Just curious. If someone was to get this as a first TC car to build, with a couple of locals that have already built it, how much trouble would he be in trying to get it built? In other words, is this a suitable kit for a newbie builder?

Also, the kit lists a number of optional parts and optional stuff like bearing grease? Are any of these essential if the car will be run on both carpet indoors and asphalt outdoors (no idea of traction levels)?

Will likely be run in novice at first, then a VTA-like spec, then 17.5 blinky stock, but not mod.

Trying to decide on a TC car to build. The build part is important because it is being used as a type of therapy to take my mind off medical issues.

Thanks in advance for any advice provided.

Marc
Hi Marc,

Most people in the hobby would agree that the Xray kits are generally some of the easiest to build & get started with. The manuals are pretty much the best in the industry as far as spelling out details and providing imagery to help. The kit will come with all of the oils and grease that you would need for the build. As for option parts, you can't go wrong with grabbing some of the different springs & sway bars. Having an assortment of silicon oils to tune your diff & shocks will help too. Since the kit now comes with ECS' there isn't much upgrading needed out of the box.

Xray is very durable, so the car will be good for novice & VTA as well. When you're ready to jump up to stock, you'll have a great & very capable platform to work with there as well.

Edit: the fact that you also have some locals who already have Xray will be a huge help as well. Having local help is a big plus for any brand of car.
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:25 AM   #356
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Robbie, i see on your latest Birds testing setup you were running front arm sweep. Is that correct, and can you explain the change. I know it use to be big in my Cyclone days, but havent seen it used much in the rays.
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:54 AM   #357
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Robbie, i see on your latest Birds testing setup you were running front arm sweep. Is that correct, and can you explain the change. I know it use to be big in my Cyclone days, but havent seen it used much in the rays.
Yes, I feel it provides a little more initial steering & helps the car enter the corner better for my driving style. I haven't done much testing with this since February, so this is something that I do plan to readdress and test further in the near future, including different track widths, etc. Seems over the past month or two I've learned that some changes feel different from what I remember feeling last indoor season.

I plan to update that setup sheet as I find different things that I like, so it may change slightly in 2 or 3 weeks.
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Old 12-29-2015, 09:43 PM   #358
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Thinking about picking up a T4 16 for USGT. With the included Spur Gear, is it possible to get the gearing proper for a 21.5 motor? 3.5-4.2 FDR

OR.... what is the largest Pinion you can install with the included 84T 48P spur gear?
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Old 12-29-2015, 09:51 PM   #359
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No, the T4 comes with an 84T 48P gear. You will need 92-96T 64P ideally for USGT (69-72 48P)
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Old 01-02-2016, 11:10 AM   #360
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Originally Posted by R Dodge View Post
Yes, I feel it provides a little more initial steering & helps the car enter the corner better for my driving style. I haven't done much testing with this since February, so this is something that I do plan to readdress and test further in the near future, including different track widths, etc. Seems over the past month or two I've learned that some changes feel different from what I remember feeling last indoor season.

I plan to update that setup sheet as I find different things that I like, so it may change slightly in 2 or 3 weeks.
when i asked the same question on arm sweep,i was told it gives more mid and exit steering,nothing to do with turn in,toe out is more for initial,is it not?
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