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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 10-31-2015, 08:37 AM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
If you're building a new car why don't you have the manual?!
Maybe he just ordered it and it hasn't arrived yet?
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:45 AM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
If you're building a new car why don't you have the manual?!
If you would have assumed accurately you could have deducted from my post that I bought the new kit and it was on the way and I didn't have the manual nor was I looking at the online version.

That's why you should never assume.
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:46 AM   #213
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Originally Posted by DirkW View Post
Maybe he just ordered it and it hasn't arrived yet?
Bingo. You have smarticals. Kit will be here Monday. Can't wait to build it. Be fun going from Tamiya to try something else.

Thanks EA for getting it here so quickly.
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:33 PM   #214
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Did basic shakedown and several runs on my car today. Overall super happy with the car. Few points I noticed:

Car is fast and easy to drive with the kit setup.
Pushes slightly mid-corner, but I'm sure with more time this can be tuned out
Servo saver works better than most other manufacturers I've used, but I still prefer an aluminum arm.
Track I run on is fairly rough, kit damping was a little soft, went up a notch in shock oil, as going up in springs seemed to hurt the way the car drove versus the kit setup.
Car holds speed through corners well, except for that slight push mentioned above. Good on power steering while still being stable and not really any oversteer unless you throw it into the corner.
Was on pace within the first 10 laps, and actually ahead of pace by quite a bit by the end of the session. I have yet to run with the guys at this track so no idea what the skill level is like here though...

Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the car, can't wait to get more time on it.

Seth
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:35 PM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
Did basic shakedown and several runs on my car today. Overall super happy with the car. Few points I noticed:

Pushes slightly mid-corner, but I'm sure with more time this can be tuned out

Seth
Try two hole front arms using the outside hole, usually cleans up the mid-corner push for me.
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Old 11-01-2015, 06:14 AM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
If you would have assumed accurately you could have deducted from my post that I bought the new kit and it was on the way and I didn't have the manual nor was I looking at the online version.

That's why you should never assume.
Okay then. Why would you worry that there is something you don't understand when you don't have the manual, nor do you have the car you're worrying about building?

What you're saying is that I should have supposed you put the cart before the horse then.

My mistake, of course.
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:00 AM   #217
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Selling my one race old 2016 car with Avid CF chassis if anyone is interested.

Xray T4 2016
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Old 11-02-2015, 07:58 PM   #218
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Well I got the kit today and started the build. So far so good with only a few snags.

The small gears in the diff need to be sanded a bit. When they popped off the tree they were a little burred and would not mess real well. All good now.

The arms are free except for one rear in the right. It is not tight but not as free as the others. I tried polish but no luck. I do not have a reamer so I am just going to see if they free up after a pack or so, if not I will call in for support at the track.

I did buy the upgraded steering arms so those are installed. I had to take a break at the sway bar step. More tomorrow but fun so far.
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Last edited by goin2drt; 11-02-2015 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 11-02-2015, 08:35 PM   #219
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You don't need a reamer to free the arm.

Go get yourself a proper jobber 3mm dia and a hand pin vice (I actually use a small detachable keyless drill chuck - gives more purchase). You can try with a run of the mill 3mm drill bit, but there is some risk there associated with what the manufacturer considers "fit for purpose" quality.

A good quality bit will open the holes (push it in and out without twisting so the cutting edge of the bit does the job by "shaving" the inside of the hole) exactly to 3mm which is the hinge pin diameter (and from experience Xray is quite accurate there). Polishing the pins will ruin them as you'll find out when you change the suspension arm next time.

Another thing I do, I try to swap the arms/suspension pins around in the hope that tolerances will add up in my favour by pairing the arms/pins differently. Doesn't really work with Xray (works sometimes with sloppier manufacturers), but it's better than polishing the pins.
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Old 11-03-2015, 03:19 AM   #220
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I've never seen any negative effect to polishing hinge pins. I've been doing that for years on hinge pins and ballstuds of every xray I own whether it be TC or 1/12. There is no need to remove material from the pin, but polishing it with something like the Gravity polish or Mother's aluminum polish is safe. Polishing ballstuds & pins along with reaming the arms will ensure smooth and free movement even when the suspension has load on it on the track.

goin2dirt - If you haven't already, you could check that the arm mounts aren't too tight on the arm causing your bind. One quick way to make sure is to tap the front and rear of the arm a few times with the handle of one of your wrenches to push the arm mounts away from it. You can also influence how the mount sits on the chassis as you tighten the screws by simply pushing the arm toward the mount as you tighten. If that doesn't do it, then you'll likely need to ream the arm.
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Old 11-03-2015, 06:08 AM   #221
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Thanks Dodge. I will give that a go. I know they flop no problem right up until I give the block screws that final tighten. Three are perfect, one is just a tad tight.
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Old 11-03-2015, 08:40 AM   #222
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When I built my car my rear arms also were bound up pretty good... Didn't need to go as far as polishing the pins but a few taps with a heavy pair of pliers did the trick.
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Old 11-03-2015, 03:04 PM   #223
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
Thanks Dodge. I will give that a go. I know they flop no problem right up until I give the block screws that final tighten. Three are perfect, one is just a tad tight.
Is that 'one' the rear left, nearest the motor?
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Old 11-03-2015, 03:49 PM   #224
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When I built my car my rear arms also were bound up pretty good... Didn't need to go as far as polishing the pins but a few taps with a heavy pair of pliers did the trick.
So this worked perfectly. I think the black holders were just not pushed in enough. Skiddins it was the right one opposite the motor.

I finished the build and have a few comments and questions.

First I cannot find the internal gear ratio for the car. What would that be?

There has got to be a different way folks are attaching the shocks on the bottom. I found myself not wanting to tighten the ball on that piece that screws into the arm as I was afraid to deform or scratch the ball. Anyone modify this approach?

I have had a belt tensioner on every on road car I own and it is optional for this car, is everyone using one?

Comments on the build: by far one of the easiest and quickest builds to do. I don't know if it is just the manual is written but it worked for me. I think the shocks will be interesting. From a build and a quality stand point they seem to be a few notches below the Tamiya ones I am used to. doesn't mean they won't perform. Again the way the shock attach are weird to me, different I guess. The steering seems to be way nicer and smoother with less slop then the Tamiya. Lastly that bumper is hardly a bumper.

Overall I cannot wait to get it out this weekend for a shakedown trip.
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Old 11-03-2015, 03:58 PM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
So this worked perfectly. I think the black holders were just not pushed in enough. Skiddins it was the right one opposite the motor.

I finished the build and have a few comments and questions.

First I cannot find the internal gear ratio for the car. What would that be?
1.9

Quote:
There has got to be a different way folks are attaching the shocks on the bottom. I found myself not wanting to tighten the ball on that piece that screws into the arm as I was afraid to deform or scratch the ball. Anyone modify this approach?
Just use a 3mm wrench to remove the ball and all from the set screw, works just fine.

Quote:
I have had a belt tensioner on every on road car I own and it is optional for this car, is everyone using one?
Some do, some don't. Certainly not required, but it doesn't hurt.

Quote:
Comments on the build: by far one of the easiest and quickest builds to do. I don't know if it is just the manual is written but it worked for me. I think the shocks will be interesting. From a build and a quality stand point they seem to be a few notches below the Tamiya ones I am used to. doesn't mean they won't perform. Again the way the shock attach are weird to me, different I guess. The steering seems to be way nicer and smoother with less slop then the Tamiya. Lastly that bumper is hardly a bumper.

Overall I cannot wait to get it out this weekend for a shakedown trip.
Get the RSD bumper or the XRAY hard bumper they came out with recently, it's pretty good also.
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