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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 10-30-2015, 08:41 AM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cplus View Post
What he said
Thanks Cplus
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Old 10-30-2015, 08:57 AM   #197
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Originally Posted by cplus View Post
I've just done exactly the same. TRF > Xray

I've built two 16's in the past couple of weeks now.

- very few shims required compared to TRF, but still good to use some on the driveshafts on the inside
- don't use the diff O Ring
- watch out for little bits of swarf in the threads. This is a little disappointing on the first kit, hopefully mine was a one off (two locations) as it wasn't present on the second.
- ball studs are mug tighter than Tamiya. Best to insert the stud into the plastic turnbuckle end and THEN screw into the bulkheads etc. Easier than if you snap on after.
- with the servo saver, again, tighter than Tamiya. Assemble the two plastic halves and then snap on the springs. Almost impossible to get the springs on and then combine the two plastic halves.
- for the roll bars, insert the bearings into the bulkheads and then thread the bars through (followed by the orange holders). Do this before putting on turnbuckles for ease.

That's all I can think of at the moment!
Same as above. I had two screws messed up as well.

Also had tight arms, needed to do a light sanding (1200grit) then polish with mothers to get them to move free (but without slop). Polish first, if they're still tight, then try something like 2000 grit or 1500, re-polish and try again. Don't want them sloppy loose, but need to be free.

Seth
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:34 AM   #198
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Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
Same as above. I had two screws messed up as well.

Also had tight arms, needed to do a light sanding (1200grit) then polish with mothers to get them to move free (but without slop). Polish first, if they're still tight, then try something like 2000 grit or 1500, re-polish and try again. Don't want them sloppy loose, but need to be free.

Seth
Are you sure that;
A. you had the pivot block holders the correct way around, as the chamfer for the inserts is deeper on one side.
B. The block holders were tightened down 'correctly', i.e. I had to hold the individual holders at the back with a pair of pliers to stop them rotating whilst being tightened down.

I only ask as I don't know of anyone ever having to sand the wishbones. If they've been tight, there has always been a reason other than the width of the wishbones.

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Old 10-30-2015, 09:42 AM   #199
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Originally Posted by B. Santos View Post
http://stormerhobbies.com

Stormer carries the full line of Hudy oils.

I believe Xray changed the branding on their cst oils to Hudy.
When I search buy part number it keeps coming up as 0 products found.
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:51 AM   #200
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Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
When I search buy part number it keeps coming up as 0 products found.
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:54 AM   #201
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Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
When I search buy part number it keeps coming up as 0 products found.
Or for the Hudy oil.

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:27 PM   #202
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Are you sure that;
A. you had the pivot block holders the correct way around, as the chamfer for the inserts is deeper on one side.
B. The block holders were tightened down 'correctly', i.e. I had to hold the individual holders at the back with a pair of pliers to stop them rotating whilst being tightened down.

I only ask as I don't know of anyone ever having to sand the wishbones. If they've been tight, there has always been a reason other than the width of the wishbones.

Skiddins
Yes. Not sure what you are calling "wishbones", but I had to lightly sand and re-polish the hinge pins that the front/rear arms rotate on. The arms wouldn't move free on the hinge pins off the car.
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Old 10-30-2015, 04:15 PM   #203
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Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
Yes. Not sure what you are calling "wishbones", but I had to lightly sand and re-polish the hinge pins that the front/rear arms rotate on. The arms wouldn't move free on the hinge pins off the car.
I mean the 'Lower Arms'.
When you described using sandpaper etc, I thought you meant on the arms, not the pivot pins.
I check them regularly and use 1500 grit with the pins in a Dremel to reduce the friction between the pins and the arms.
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:48 PM   #204
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I mean the 'Lower Arms'.
When you described using sandpaper etc, I thought you meant on the arms, not the pivot pins.
I check them regularly and use 1500 grit with the pins in a Dremel to reduce the friction between the pins and the arms.
Right, that's what I had to do to mine...tried to polish them first but not aggressive enough. Had to sand and repolish to get free moving arms.

Not a huge deal but something to look out for in the build...
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:32 PM   #205
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I was checking out the manual prior to getting my kit. Is the only difference for the ARS the rear arms? I want the standard set up.
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:40 PM   #206
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It comes with both standard and ARS arms. You can build the ARS set to have it ready if you want to try it out during practice.
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Old 10-30-2015, 10:59 PM   #207
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
I was checking out the manual prior to getting my kit. Is the only difference for the ARS the rear arms? I want the standard set up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vabroom View Post
It comes with both standard and ARS arms. You can build the ARS set to have it ready if you want to try it out during practice.
Not quite with what's included in the box. You will need some additional pieces (outer pins, drive shafts, bearings, etc) if you want to truly swap between the standard and ARS system as easily as possible. Keep in mind ARS is most effective on asphalt tracks.
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Old 10-31-2015, 03:58 AM   #208
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Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
Right, that's what I had to do to mine...tried to polish them first but not aggressive enough. Had to sand and repolish to get free moving arms.

Not a huge deal but something to look out for in the build...
The pins are almost certainly machined accurately, so I wouldn't advise sanding them. If the arms are a touch tight on the pins, you just need to run a 3mm reamer through the arms, then they will be perfect.
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:33 AM   #209
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
You shouldn't assume... Thanks for the clarification.
If you're building a new car why don't you have the manual?!
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:35 AM   #210
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The pins are almost certainly machined accurately, so I wouldn't advise sanding them. If the arms are a touch tight on the pins, you just need to run a 3mm reamer through the arms, then they will be perfect.
Not only that, but the arms are consumables, the pins are not (or shouldn't be). What do you do when you change arms and find the new one is too sloppy on the pin you sanded down?
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