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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 10-25-2015, 02:40 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric_Choi View Post
"Graphite arms etc aren't suitable for lower grip conditions. " Why?
Cuz I play in low traction track, feel Graphite Arm could sometimes been more stable in Low traction.
Is that my illusion leading to wrong way? Or?
Really glad to hear from u.
As far as I understand it, the harder arms essentially remove flex and take away grip at that end of the car. If you had a balanced car and added harder arms to the rear, you would probably see oversteer conditions. Vis versa for the front (i.e. Pushy). If you use harder arms all around, it should make the car feel lazier and easier to drive. If the car is already "lazy" however like on low grip, the harder arms would make it lazier...

At least that is how I understand it..

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Old 10-25-2015, 06:00 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric_Choi View Post
"Graphite arms etc aren't suitable for lower grip conditions. " Why?
Cuz I play in low traction track, feel Graphite Arm could sometimes been more stable in Low traction.
Is that my illusion leading to wrong way? Or?
Really glad to hear from u.
I had a meeting on carpet last year where I struggled to get the car handling well (graphite arms) I then changed to standard arms in the final and the car was much easier to drive.

I think it's a personal preference, not a 'rule'.
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Old 10-25-2015, 09:21 PM   #183
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I doubt your average driver could even tell the difference in std and graphite arms, I think if your suspension ie. Shocks are doing there job and your setup is correct for the type of track your running on the most your gona have to worry about is one breaking easier than the other, honestly Ive never broken a arm, C hubs yes. I have both types of arms and theres not much difference in the 2 that I feel by attempting to bend them by hand that your gonna notice from a car that weighs around 1400 grams. If your experiencing traction problems, I highly doubt changing from 1 arm to the next is gona correct the problem.
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Old 10-26-2015, 02:42 AM   #184
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Originally Posted by rtenzo02 View Post
I doubt your average driver could even tell the difference in std and graphite arms, I think if your suspension ie. Shocks are doing there job and your setup is correct for the type of track your running on the most your gona have to worry about is one breaking easier than the other, honestly Ive never broken a arm, C hubs yes. I have both types of arms and theres not much difference in the 2 that I feel by attempting to bend them by hand that your gonna notice from a car that weighs around 1400 grams. If your experiencing traction problems, I highly doubt changing from 1 arm to the next is gona correct the problem.
I think you can feel the difference more easily than you think.
But of course, there's only one way to truly tell, and that's try both.
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:01 PM   #185
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I just bought a kit and excited to try out Xray coming from Tamiya. I looked on the first post and did not see any updates, clues, tricks etc like on some other threads. I also read the short Petitrc build article.

Without reading all 13 pages which I am sure I will do anyways, any watch outs or cool bits of info that are need to know on this kit?
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:14 PM   #186
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I've just done exactly the same. TRF > Xray

I've built two 16's in the past couple of weeks now.

- very few shims required compared to TRF, but still good to use some on the driveshafts on the inside
- don't use the diff O Ring
- watch out for little bits of swarf in the threads. This is a little disappointing on the first kit, hopefully mine was a one off (two locations) as it wasn't present on the second.
- ball studs are mug tighter than Tamiya. Best to insert the stud into the plastic turnbuckle end and THEN screw into the bulkheads etc. Easier than if you snap on after.
- with the servo saver, again, tighter than Tamiya. Assemble the two plastic halves and then snap on the springs. Almost impossible to get the springs on and then combine the two plastic halves.
- for the roll bars, insert the bearings into the bulkheads and then thread the bars through (followed by the orange holders). Do this before putting on turnbuckles for ease.

That's all I can think of at the moment!
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Old 10-29-2015, 07:29 PM   #187
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Cplus. Thanks. When you say don't use the diff o-ring am I to use a different one or none at all? I don't have the manual yet so maybe it will make sense when I am looking at that.
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Old 10-29-2015, 07:35 PM   #188
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Trying to find Xray/Hudy shock oil. Anyone know of any on line shops that sell it in the U.S.
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Old 10-29-2015, 07:41 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtenzo02 View Post
I doubt your average driver could even tell the difference in std and graphite arms
I can and I am no pro.

I have found the graphite arms to provide more grip and be more stable than the standard arms.

Whilst I cant explain when it was cold and I did a back to back the difference in feel was small and lap time difference was minimal.

When it was hot the difference between standard and graphite in feel was considerable and graphite was a touch faster and more consistent.

On a hot outdoor track if there are any bumps in particularly mid corner with graphite arms the car is more stable and just feels more locked in.

Possibly flex in the standard arms creating binding under load?
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Old 10-29-2015, 09:26 PM   #190
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
Cplus. Thanks. When you say don't use the diff o-ring am I to use a different one or none at all? I don't have the manual yet so maybe it will make sense when I am looking at that.
I assume you're not building a new car, otherwise you'd have the manual. Even so, you can still download it off the web.

That out of the way, I think he's referring to the large, very thin o-ring that seals the two diff case halves. It's a PITA to put back if it has been used before.

If you have a new kit (or just a new diff set - you should have the instruction sheet that comes with it, though) you can use it, but it makes no difference to keeping liquids in provided you do up the screws correctly and use a good (preoiled) gasket.

Either way, you won't be able to reuse it after you first open the diff for maintenance. It expands just enough that you can't get it back in and if you insist you're liable to smoosh it somewhere between the two diff case halves and give yourself a lot of trouble you can do without.
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Old 10-30-2015, 02:56 AM   #191
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Trying to find Xray/Hudy shock oil. Anyone know of any on line shops that sell it in the U.S.
Discountrcstore.com carries xray/hudy.
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Old 10-30-2015, 05:29 AM   #192
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Discountrcstore.com carries xray/hudy.
I checked them out. They don't sell Xray brand of oils. Thanks anyway though.
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Old 10-30-2015, 06:13 AM   #193
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I checked them out. They don't sell Xray brand of oils. Thanks anyway though.
http://stormerhobbies.com

Stormer carries the full line of Hudy oils.

I believe Xray changed the branding on their cst oils to Hudy.
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:25 AM   #194
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
That out of the way, I think he's referring to the large, very thin o-ring that seals the two diff case halves. It's a PITA to put back if it has been used before.

If you have a new kit (or just a new diff set - you should have the instruction sheet that comes with it, though) you can use it, but it makes no difference to keeping liquids in provided you do up the screws correctly and use a good (preoiled) gasket.

Either way, you won't be able to reuse it after you first open the diff for maintenance. It expands just enough that you can't get it back in and if you insist you're liable to smoosh it somewhere between the two diff case halves and give yourself a lot of trouble you can do without.
What he said
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Last edited by cplus; 10-30-2015 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:40 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
I assume you're not building a new car, otherwise you'd have the manual. Even so, you can still download it off the web.

That out of the way, I think he's referring to the large, very thin o-ring that seals the two diff case halves. It's a PITA to put back if it has been used before.

If you have a new kit (or just a new diff set - you should have the instruction sheet that comes with it, though) you can use it, but it makes no difference to keeping liquids in provided you do up the screws correctly and use a good (preoiled) gasket.

Either way, you won't be able to reuse it after you first open the diff for maintenance. It expands just enough that you can't get it back in and if you insist you're liable to smoosh it somewhere between the two diff case halves and give yourself a lot of trouble you can do without.
You shouldn't assume... Thanks for the clarification.
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